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Storing extension cords and air hoses on wall

7K views 58 replies 22 participants last post by  RainMan 2.0 
#1 ·
I was going to buy a plastic thing for storing your garden hoses to use for my extentions cords and air hoses in my shop , but I went to HD today and there all put away till spring.
So this got me to thinking about making a wall rack to store them instead out of 2/4's . Thinking a board that goes on the wall ,then have two pieces secured with screws I guess as I don't know how to mortise and tenon , and then maybe put another board on the end with a little over lap . Guess I could dado in a slot for more strength .

Just wondering what others have done :)
 
#2 · (Edited)
I like these...different sizes for different uses...different shapes also (hooks, square, etc...)

I use them for extension cords, air hoses, etc... don't work as well for garden hoses.

Everbilt Heavy-Duty Wall Mounted Bike Hanger-01221 - The Home Depot

...and then there's these...they also come with hanging carabiners...heavier duty and they hang well on hooks, nails, screws...

HitchMate QuickCinch Straps in Black (10-Pack )-4084 - The Home Depot

and these...but they make heavier and cheaper...

http://www.firepenny.com/Firefighter_Velcro_Glove_Strap_Nylon_p/bl-9125-5.htm

in HD they are in the same area as the tool bags...
 
#4 ·
Why are you putting MORE stuff on the walls. You're the guy going over the falls in a canoe...but with no paddle.
OK; no working in the shop in the cold; I get it. But unless this is the game plan for ever, you need to stop complicating the wiring/insulation plan! (Wait...what? There's a plan?! :O ))
 
#5 ·
Dan, I told you before...it's not a plan until you put it down onto the paper!
 
#6 ·
I use a garden hose hanger for my big air hose and extension cords, a cheap HF manual hose reel for my 100' small bore air hose, and the end of the front rail of my TS fence for the 25' HD extension cords I use all the time. I just have to move them if I make a cut over 30 inches....

Important detail, the hose reel is on a cleat, and can be removed if needed. It is a pain to roll back up that way, though
 
#8 · (Edited)
Take a look at my post from yesterday.
http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/78674-cord-pro.html
The nice thing about these they don't take up much space. I also am making everything mobile just add a hook to mobile unit and wheel away. The units have a hole with a grommet to hang them. I take some pictures to show you my ideas. I just ordered another for my air hose get that Tuesday. These make it easy to put away and no more tangle.
 
#23 ·
He still hasn't written it down, so, again, NOT A PLAN!:no::no::no:
 
#19 ·
Maybe I'm just cheap, but for extension cords, I just use rope (I like to use clothes line because it's soft). I cut about a 2 foot length and tie the ends in a square knot to make a loop. Loop this around the coiled cord and through itself, then hang on a hook. In my shed I have one of those heavy plastic coated hooks with a about a half dozen cords. If I had more room I'd have a hook for each cord. This works for hoses also but it seems to crease the hoses (probably not a big deal) so I keep them on a hose hanger. Just make sure you drain all the water in the winter up here in Northeast Ohio.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Whatever you do, I suggest you affix the hanger to the wall temporarily so you can remove it for wiring, insulation and dry wall. Consider a 17 inch wide sheet of ply to span the studs, then drill 3/4 inch holes at a slight angle into 2x4s, cut 3/4 dowels and insert them for peg hangers and screw the 2x4s into the ply. Hang the ply between studs with screws. Pre drill the studs with a drill just a bit smaller than the screw so they're easy to remove later. Temporary, but reusable later on after the walls are in.
 
#22 ·
I have a couple of closet shelf/rod brackets, see photo. I am going to mount a narrow board on top that has a roundover edge so the cords/hoses are not hanging on the metal edge. These are $6 US each at Lowes and will support a lot of weight.
 

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#29 ·
Sounds good, Rick. You want to run the floor plan by us for suggestions? :)
(In April you can have a storage container delivered, and start moving everything* out of the workshop...you remember your comments about no place to move a rolling scaffold?)

*Everything def: The room will be MT!
We're here for ya.
 
#30 ·
I'm about to enclose the 4 foot space between my two sheds. Just enough space to store wood and the miscellaneous stuff that needs some sort of home. You could build a simple enclosed lean-to next to or behind the garage. Get stuff out of the weather, and out of your way. Also, think high: hanging shelving from the rafters once you finish insulating and dry walling the ceiling. If you have a roll up door with space between the door and ceiling, use that space as well. That kind of storage can be done on the cheap with construction grade ply attached to 2x studs. There, another part of the plan.

BTW Rick, how are your ribs doing? Still off work?
 
#31 ·
Ribs have gotten much better and improved faster than I thought possible . Had the week from hell at work , but after that things got better . Our company doesn't take to well to employees saying st home when there hurt , so you pretty much have to tough it out .

Seriously the shipping container idea would be awesome , as I have to say it's very busy in there .
I was thinking how nice it would be to work in there if it was empty , just give er and get er done .
Problem is everything is so dam heavy I think it would be more of a headache moving stuff out and in then working around it .
 
#33 ·
Shopfox mobile bases (or equivalent). Add an appliance dolly and your more then likely golden.

The Shopfox are the best I've used for making heavy equipment mobile. Even If you plan on a piece of equipment being in a permanent position you would still be able to move it if needed.

I routinely move around 400#+ equipment with no problems.

Lots of short term solutions for the relocation. A storage container (POD) is an excellent idea for clearing out the space. A clear space is so much easier to work in and the work goes faster.
 
#32 ·
Go to good ole' WalMart in the RV dept. and get velcro strips with a slot in the end. They stay on the cord 'till needed, then coil the cord or air hose, wrap the tail of the strip around the coil, Viola - it stays nice and neat. They come in various lengths & colors & are very cheap. Just nail or bolt a 2 X 4 to one of your studs, nail or bolt another at a 45 degree angle back to the same stud, nail or bolt it and hang your item on it. No muss, no fuss.
 
#35 ·
" it would be more of a headache moving stuff out and in then working around it ."
-Rick


No. Nononono! Wrong. Nyet. That room has to be empty.The walls bare. If you're thinking otherwise, stop.
Hire someone to help you do the moving in and out...pre load the stuff onto pallets and rent/borrow a pallet jack.
Remember, I warned you this would happen, months ago (the overloaded shopspace).
It's the reverse of trying to fill a bucket with a hole in it; you're trying to bail out a boat with waves coming over the bow.
-Dan
 
#37 · (Edited)
Im thinking these may come in handy


Sorry wrong pic , I was thinking of these hanger things



This is a neat idea , although I'd have one underneith in order to wrap around the two , then don't glue the cap so you can slide it off


I like this too alhough I want something attached to the wall
 
#38 ·
Rick, listen to him. I hung and finished the drywall in the living room in our first house (Long, sad story) with the living room furniture in there - never again. I probably spent as much time moving the furniture around as I did hanging and finishing the drywall. Never again - I'd rent a storage building and move everything out first before I did that again.
 
#42 ·
Believe me Tom I'm concerned . It's not really making me motivated :(

The only good thing about this is , had I done this 15 years ago when I bought the place , I wouldn't be happy not having any 240V outlets in place . Not big on the conduit idea
 
#48 ·
The original is marked 10.5 mm so a hair over 13/32", the new material is a tad thinner and noticeable where the two meet and needs to be accounted for if you're installing something over the joint. I like the OSB as it gives you some options when hanging things on the walls, but I still look for a stud if it's something heavy. The downside - it makes the room feel dark, and really needs to be painted, I should have at least done the wall where I closed in the one door while I was doing it.

I put in what I thought was enough outlets when I wired the garage initially and I probably have enough, just not in the right places. Obviously, there are none where the door used to be. There's one outlet beside the other door where the air cleaner is plugged in, but the next one (a quad outlet) is about 6' down the adjacent wall. I really want one of those bench-top milling machines, and the only place to really put it is where the old door was, but no outlet so I'll have to tap off one of the existing outlets and run the wire in conduit. I don't have a problem doing that - the wire for the heat pump is in conduit and runs across the ceiling. Maybe not the prettiest option, but it is just a workshop. Needs change as time goes by, and there's no way to plan for all possibilities so it has to be surface-mount if I make any changes.
 
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