Finished a spline jig
My wife is a budding artist, getting pretty good with oil and gorgeous color pencil work that looks like the Dutch masters still life paintings. But that means we are buying stretched canvasas and decorative frames. So its time to start making them. So today I put together a spline jig to build stronger frames and canvas stretchers.
Turned out really well. Here's pictures of the process. Started with a 3/4 ply base, then cut the front and back work rest to 45 degrees , plus a support for the back side of the work rest.
The assembly of that first support sets up the whole jig, so I assembled in using clamps, on top of an open trash container so the clamps had a place to get out of the way of the base and back. Counter sunk for screws and glued and screwed the pieces together. Perfect. (Put packing tape on the 2x to keep the squeeze out from sticking.)
Once that was done, I test fitted the back workpiece support onto the base to establish a center line, then used a drafting square to mark the line where the two 45 degree edges would join.
Then cut a grove for the T track across the back workpiece rest. Used slightly longer screws that went through the track into the back workpiece support for extra strength. Glue too, of course. Lots of extra glue for the plywood diagonal end edge joints.
Cut a short front support, 45 degrees, about 2.5 inches on the tall side. Butted the front workpiece support to the centerline to meet up to the edge of the back workpiece support. Used a pin nailer to hold everything in place while the glue dried. Clamping angles is not much fun...I used a small wooden triangle to square things up so I could clamp the angled pieces.
Used a drafting triangle to continually check for square as shown in the picture to set the angle of the front support so that front and back formed a perfect 90. Worked like a charm.
Cut a piece of hardwood to slightly shy of 3/8ths, and fitted it with a hand plane to fit the miter slot. Nickles raised it slightly. I waxed the table around and in the slots to keep the glue out, then glued them to the base after squaring the base to the slot.
Last, cut a piece of 1/2 Baltic Birch to form a vertical support. Glued it a piece of 3/4 ply with a hole drilled for a T nut and knob that slides in the T slot to position the workpiece above the blade. Triangles glued to the sliding pieces made it rigid and perfectly vertical.
The finished result is very cool. I was able to do the whole thing with cutoffs and stock already on hand.
Need to find a 1/8 inch kerf blade that leaves a flat groove. I think I saw a set of 2 blades, 1/8th kerf and 1/4 kerf. Combine them for a 3/8 groove. Any other suggestions for finding a good 1/8th blade? Doesn't have to be 10 inches. My Glueline blade has less than a 1/8th kerg.
Last edited by DesertRatTom; 10-25-2015 at 12:03 AM.