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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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I'm building a face frame wall hung cabinet that will have flat panel overlay doors. Cabinet will be 36" Tall X 36" Wide. It will be made of 3/4" plywood. It will be used to store kitchen appliances so not too much contents weight. I was planning on making the French cleat from solid 3/4" thick X 3" wide hardwood. Anybody think I need to make the cleat from thicker wood?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 08:51 AM
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use ½- ¾ plywood...
less chance of splitting...
deals w/ stress better...
use truss headed screws and not flat head...
less chance of tear our and the screw splitting the cleat material....
counterbore the screws and not countersunk...

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 08:53 AM
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3/4" hardwood should be just fine. Just make sure you securely mount both halves and you'll be golden...

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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I was planning on a 1/2" or maybe a 3/4" cabinet back and attach the cabinet side of the cleat to the cabinet back. Leary of having the cleat supported by a 1/4" cabinet back and the cabinet top.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 09:19 AM
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it's the top and sides that are going to hold the wall w/ the back lending to the overall strength and intreity..
¼'' will be fine...
hedge your bets w/ the truss heads and glue...

there's nothing stopping you from putting a couple of ''keeper'' screws thought the ¼'' and cabinet cleat and into a wall stud..
¼'' will also cut down on the weight...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMMIEM View Post
I was planning on a 1/2" or maybe a 3/4" cabinet back and attach the cabinet side of the cleat to the cabinet back. Leary of having the cleat supported by a 1/4" cabinet back and the cabinet top.
That's why I added a piece of 1x3 across the top of mines. I used 1/4" oak panels for my backs, and I knew that was to thin to support them. So I ran a 1x3 across the top, to screw my "modified French Cleats" to them. I didn't use the "French cleats" because of the two tapers. If I had to pull out a cabinet (because my walls weren't exactly straight/square) it also rase the cabinet. So I made cleats with loose rabbets. I hung all my cabinets, by myself, and no jacks or anything. Smooth sailing!!
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 10:27 AM
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You could notch out the side panels to accept the cabinet part of the French cleat and leave room on the back side to accept the wall side cleat if you want the back of the cabinet flush on the wall. Screw and glue the cabinet side of the cleat to the side panels. This will give you added hanging strength without relying on the back panel only. Make sure you catch studs with beefy screws (NOT sheetrock screws).

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 11:33 AM
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3/4" will be plenty.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 09:16 AM
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I used 1x6 Pine for my French cleat and secured with 3" screws on every stud. The photo is right after we put it up but there are many things hanging from it now and it's working just fine. I could have used 1x4's but since I wanted the Ferrari red stripe I chose the wider board.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
it's the top and sides that are going to hold the wall w/ the back lending to the overall strength and intreity..
¼'' will be fine...
hedge your bets w/ the truss heads and glue...

there's nothing stopping you from putting a couple of ''keeper'' screws thought the ¼'' and cabinet cleat and into a wall stud..
¼'' will also cut down on the weight...
The cabinet back mostly just keeps everything square. Most cabinet installers I've watched put a couple of screws in the back close to the top and into studs. I also agree with using ply for the cleats and my preference would be cleats with bevels instead of lap joints.
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