Yonico Tongue & Groove Bits - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Default Yonico Tongue & Groove Bits

I am trying to set this up on my router table. my stock is 3/4" pine, I set the dept to 1/2", 1/4" is the tongue.. I set it up but when cutting the groove it leaves a feather edge, I try shimming, but that will change the tongue dimensions. First time using this setup. Thanks here is the photo of bits..

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 04:32 PM
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I'm not sure I understand the problem Bill and it may be that we don't share the same terminology. I'm not sure what feather edge you are talking about.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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when creating the tongue it leaves a sliver on the edge, I have read others are see the same thing, they said to use utility knife to clean it up..

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 04:45 PM
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OK, which edge, I still do not understand the question. Pictures?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 05:10 PM
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Bill I can't be sure but it could be the bit. I have some of those bits and their quality isn't up to par with some others. Of coarse the price is good and we all like a good price. I now use my Yonico bits when it's not all that important I get the best cut. Just my opinion.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 05:33 PM
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Likely your stock varies in thickness just enough.
Have a caliper? Can you measure its thickness?
Maybe 25/32", std store S2S.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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yes I do will measure it, thanks..

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 09:00 PM
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Are you jointing and planing your wood to a particular spec, or using big box wood? There is no such thing as straight, flat bigbox wood, so it could just be variations in the material's thickness and it not being straight. That bit brand is OK, not great. My default is Freud (available), but for anything exacting, like doors and T&G, my personal favorite is Sommerfeld Tools, which have matched sets and their wonderful EasySet setup jig, which accounts for exact stock thickness. Matched sets means you don't have to reset the second bit's height (you drop a half inch wide rubber grommet in the collet to form a reliable base). I LOVE the EasySet jig, and Sommerfeld has one for Freud bits as well.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 09:03 PM
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Bill another thing to remember when making T & G is to always work from the same face. If it's flooring work from the backside. If it will be the back of a cupboard then work from the face. That takes care of one of the issues of uneven board thickness. I would also chamfer both the tongue and the groove.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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will do that, this set is a matched set, I will look for a rubber grommet. which should you cut first, I went with the tongue, then just used that to set the groove. Does that sound right?

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