Advice to a newbie - Router Forums
 6Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-03-2016, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Country: United States
First Name: Timothy
Posts: 18
 
Default Advice to a newbie

Hey, Y'all
I have a young friend with zero woodworking experience who just bought a yard-sale Makita plunge-router to begin his foray. He asked me for advice on bits. The two options, as I see them are (A) Get a cheap set and beat them up until you learn, or (2) get a few good ones and learn under instruction. I advised him on the latter with a suggestion of necessaries including a 1/4" spiral upcut, a straight cutting bit, a top-bearing pattern bit (preferably 3/8" carbide and 1/2" diameter) and a rounding over bit with a bottom bearing. He might want keyhole or dovetails in the next few months but this seemed like a good "get him started" set. Any other suggestions?
bdbailey likes this.
tar905 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-03-2016, 08:15 PM
Forum Contributor
 
DesertRatTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Tom
Posts: 15,253
 
Default

Cut and copy this onto an email for him. Make sure he understands that the material takes several years to make happen, a decade in my case, but it may help him avoid some frustration and mistakes.

These are the 17+ things that really helped me get going with woodworking. Hope it helps you as much as they did me.

1) If you are using Firefox browser, get a free add on YouTube download helper app. Search for videos on all aspects of woodworking that interest you and collect them. I watch a video on the topic of whatever project, or phase of a project, on which I'm currently working. VERY helpful to see it done a few times before you try it yourself.

I use a YouTube downloader that’s free using the tools menu/add ons. It puts a download button under the video on YouTube. Click the button, name the file (I always label it according to the tool or job it works on. For example, anything to do with routing, I label as "Router", which clusters all the similar videos together in Windows Explorer. All my videos go into a single folder. I sometimes watch woodworking video while on planes, which triggers some interesting conversations.

2) There are hundreds of used books on woodworking on Amazon. Order some on basic tools and woodworking. You'll need to learn to tune up saws and other tools, and books are how I learned to do these things. It wasn't until I tuned up my saws that good results began to happen. My saws cut exactly 90 and 45, or any angle I need now. Two books I really love are Bill Hylton’s “Woodworking with the Router,” and “The Joint Book” by Terrie Noll. The Noll Book is a really concise and heavily illustrated reference with great hints for making every variety of joints. There are lots of good table saw guides.

3) Make some first projects with MDF or ordinary plywood before using more expensive material. Make the same project several times with improved skill, material and workmanship each time. Great learning method.

4) Consider making cabinets or stands for each of your power tools as first projects. My first cabinet was of MDF and my sander and all my sanding gear still sit on and in it. I can't tell you how much confidence I got from building space efficient shop stands and now, all the tools in my smallish shop are on casters and easily moved around for use and cleanup. Put doors on every cabinet to reduce wandering dust and to master making face frames and doors. BTW, if you add casters, use two non swivels on the back and two locking casters on the front--make sure the lock secures both the wheel rotation and the swivel so your carts don't skip around in use. My shop made stands also take up far less floor space than the spread-legged ones that came with the tools, which makes it far easier to move tools around in a compact shop--which is necessary to clean out the insidious sawdust.

5) Many of the woodworking supply stores in the US (and I imagine overseas) have demos on weekends. Attend and get to know the people you meet there. They can turn you on to sources of wood and you can get some nice help and begin a friendship or two. Don’t forget to talk with the employees as well. At our local Rockler, several of the employees are serious and experienced woodworkers and always eager to help. I’ve also found some of the big box stores employ a few very experienced wood workers, carpenters, electricians and plumbers. You just have to start a brief conversation, if they seem knowledgeable, ask them about what they did before they worked at the store.

6) Among your first purchases should be some form of dust control. Many woods are proven carcinogens and can quickly damage your lungs. Dust collection information is on this site. I had a 4-inch, home made system installed to collect sawdust (see update below), but I also have and recommend a dust mask with a small fan that pulls in pressurized air that not only keeps dust out, but also keeps my glasses from fogging. Got mine at Rockler and I keep a couple of sets of rechargable AA batteries ready to use.

For cutting just a piece or two, I keep surgical style disposable masks handy. I also built a box with 20x20 filter inside and a fan that pulls air through to remove fine airborne dust over time. You can even tape a filter to the back of a fan in a pinch. Don't take your mask off right after cutting or cleaning up because there is always dust floating around for awhile. If you start coughing, it means you need to pay very close attention to dust control and wearing a mask. It takes months to recover from a bout of working unprotected with MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) without a mask.

Update: After spending a LOT of money trying to make my own dust collection system work, I bought a 5 inch, 2hp unit from Harbor Freight for about $200. It collects the sawdust in a plastic bag which is easier and far less messy to dispose of. The HF unit was on sale and goes on sale from time to time. I would have been money ahead to have bought it in the first place. There are many dust collection machines out there and I wouldn’t go the home made route again. Not sure what I’ll do with all that old gear but am likely to make a new ceiling mounted filter box with greater air flow with one of the blowers. The purpose of that is to draw shop air through and remove fine dust particles over time. Will put a timer switch on it so I can walk away while it scrubs the air.

Chop and miter saws of all types are usually the worst sawdust scattering offender in the shop. My solution was to use a clear plastic shower curtain that wraps around the saw and catches most of the sawdust that drops down into a collection box. Don’t force this kind of saw since that seems to make the scatter even worse.

I use my dust collection system to clean up the floor. It has one 4 inch flex hose that moves from tool to tool. My router fence has a 2.5 inch port behind the bit, on the fence. There is also a 4 inch port on the box that contains the router under the table. You can find an adapter that has a Y shape, one arm attaches to the 4 inch collector hose, the other connector goes to the fence port. It helps a lot. The problem with sawdust on the router table is that it lifts the workpiece up slightly so your cuts will go off. You must sweep this away frequently, so keep a wide brush handy.

7) Take your sweet time with projects, there's no rush and it is easy to have a project nearly complete, then make a careless, quick cut or other error that ruins all your good work. In most cases, it is best to fit pieces by putting them in place and marking rather than just measuring and cutting. Cut a bit over and shave the piece down (or use a good block plane) for an exact fit. A good block plane, nice and sharp, is a basic tool you'll use more often than you think.

8) Buy the very best table saw you can manage. It will quickly become the most used tool in your shop. A little debt could move you up a notch and help you produce better results and cut thicker wood. Get the best tools you can afford. Read the reviews and ask questions on the forum before you choose. To me, it is worth it to use credit if necessary to move up the quality scale for the table saw.

There are models called hybrid saws that have the mechanical works attached to the cabinet rather than the top, which is good. I recently replaced my old contractor saw with a Laguna Fusion saw. My shop is not wired for 220, so I was happy with the 110volt, 1 3/4 hp motor. Many forum members have been very happy with less expensive models, Grizzly for example, but I prefer the Laguna for its amazingly flat table and extensions and its fit and finish (and reasonable price). Learn to set up and tune up your saws and tools (books and videos show you how) because you can’t make anything great if your tools are even slightly off. Many people prefer the Saw Stop because it all but eliminates the risk of cutting off a digit, but you’ll pay about twice the price of otherwise equal saws.

The best safety device is paying very close attention to what you’re doing with a saw, but a close second is a MicroJig Gripper, which lets you control wood on the saw while keeping your fingers safely away from the blade. There is a fancy and a simpler model, either of which is good.

9) If you can, get an electrician to add a 220 outlet or two to your shop. If you set up in the garage, you may be able to use the electrical outlet for the dryer. There are many tools that require 220 volts to work best, and many used 220 v tools are available at really good prices--if you feel comfortable buying used. Another tool source is to visit estate sales. Every once in awhile, you find tools no one else in the family desires or knows the value of, so you can get them cheap.

If you don't have a router yet, I have come to like the Triton TRA001, which is perfect for table use, particularly since you can adjust height quite precisely from the above the table with its built in lift. That feature really saves my knees. However, it is just too heavy for this old guy to control freehand. I really like the Bosch 1617 EVSPK for hand held use. There is a newer model that has a light and switch on the handle that costs more. Both come in a kit with fixed and plunge base. Bosch has many accessories available that are very well made. Others like different brands, but Mike recently checked in on the topic and compared PorterCable plus other brands and I thought the Bosch came out ahead. I prefer the raising and lowering mechanism on the Bosch with its precise micro adjustment knob. The Bosch fixed base can be used as a lift in a table. The books on routers and other topics are really useful for understanding some of the arcane woodworking terms associated with this must have tool..

10) When it comes to router bits, try to stick to the half inch shafts with carbide cutting tips. These are astonishingly sharp. Bosch and Freud are easily available at HD and Lowes, but there are lots of other excellent brands including the well liked Whiteside and Sommerfield bits. Be careful of those ultra sharp tips, which are fragile. I'd suggest storing them in one of those foam lined cases you can get pretty cheap from Harbor Freight, loosely packed so they don't click together. A few of the cheap bits don’t have carbide tips. Spiral bits are sometimes used to cut grooves. Carbide spiral bits are both expensive and fragile and it takes very little abuse to ruin them. Many use high speed steel bits for that purpose.

I buy bits as I need them and don't much care for kits. However, someone recently suggested getting a kit to start out with, then gradually replacing only the bits you actually use with top grade bits. This makes some sense to me, but stick to the half inch shafts if you can manage it--most kits I’ve seen have 1/4 inch shafts. I would avoid huge sets with odd bits you are unlikely ever to use. A few standard bits most of us have are the round over bits. You can get them in different sizes, but mostly you’re likely to use the quarter, half and ¾ sizes. Another bit that is very useful for cabinetry is the half inch rabbiting bit with a bearing. Some come with a changable bearing that allows you to change the depth of the rabbit. Doing fancier stuff makes those cash register numbers spin because door bit sets for example, are pricey!

One more thing about using bits, don’t try to take off too much wood in one pass. Make several passes taking a little more wood with each pass. Pay attention to the grain of the wood (that is covered in most books on routing) with a final pass just shaving and making for a very smooth finish. My personal rule is to cut no more than 1/8 th of an inch per pass. The larger the bit, the slower you should set the speed control.

11) The most useful item I own for my saws is a Wixey digital angle gauge, which allows me to set up all my saws to exact angles (eg: 90 degrees to the table). It wasn't until I started being meticulous about this that my projects started working out right. These are about $30 on Amazon.

I have a Bosch 10 inch compound sliding miter saw that I also love, but use it mainly for cross cutting long pieces, but its ability to cut at precise angles is wonderful.

12) Pocket Hole jig and construction. Although there are many ways to make cabinets and face frames, I have found that pocket hole screws have really made making them easier. Just remember, coarse threads for soft woods, fine thread for hard woods, and I find the square head easier to drive correctly than the Phillips type. My jig is mounted on a chunk of plywood that I can clamp down. The thing makes a lot of sawdust so dust collection is a good idea. I also find that with careful, exact 90 degree end cuts to the wood, the pocket hole approach produces absolutely square cabinets and face frames. You’ll need a couple of face clamps and a Kreg right angle clamp if you use pocket hole joinery. There are many helpful videos on this jig and it is not very expensive as tools go.

13) Make a table saw sled (lots of YouTube videos on how to) for perfect 90 degree cuts on your table saw. I had a little more money than time, so I bought the sled Rockler makes that has a swinging fence and a very precise angle scale. I love that thing and set up a special shelf right next to my table saw to store it and keep it flat. Cross cuts on the sled are wonderfully exact and it prevents most tear out, the ragged or splintered area at the end of a cut. The sled is also a much safer way to cut short pieces as well. You set the sled to a precise 90 or 45 angle using a drafting square.

Most saws come with a miter gauge, but I prefer one of the precision gauges. I have an Osborne gauge I really like, but many here like Incra’s gauge. Precision is important with gauges.

You will read a LOT about jigs here and in your books and videos. Jigs, accurate T squares, a good straightedge are all incredibly useful for producing good work. The more I venture into really good hard wood construction, the more I appreciate how jigs produce accurate results without wasting expensive wood through mis-cuts.

14) I had a lot of problems with tear out at first, but most of that stopped when I started using a sacrificial backup block to push the last bit of a piece through the router. I often use square pieces of MDF (medium density fiberboard) because it is cheap and stays flat. When it gets torn up, I just cut off a chunk and use what’s left. Really helps! You can do the same with any piece by putting a backer board behind where the cut goes--you cut through the piece first, the backer last. You may also want to use feather boards to hold boards in correct alignment to the fence and blade or bit.

Zero Clearance Inserts for the table saw: On the table saw, buy or make blank inserts to make zero clearance inserts (see YouTube for how to do it), this really helps make great, tear-out free cuts. I also found that I wanted to push that last quarter inch through the bit too fast, now I feed at a steady pace all through the cut.

15) Clamps: The joke is you can never have too many clamps. The ones I use most are about $3 each at Harbor Freight, about 9 inch F clamps (they look like an F). I have 18 of them at a couple of bucks each. The same source has longer versions up to 24 inches and I keep 4 to 6 of the 18 and 24 inch models. I have four sets of two of 24 to 60 inch (Jet) parallel clamps for making really square cabinets and other items where holding things square for glue up is important. The better the quality of bar clamps, the thicker and stronger the bar will be. I’ve all but given up on plastic clamps, but have a few that look like scissors for lightly holding things together or down. Depending on what you’re making, a few wooden hand screw clamps could be useful, including holding small parts for safer routing. I recently added a couple of special steel C clamps that have a 12 inch open throat. Very handy item!

16) Hand planes and hand tools: Learning to use these is something of an art, as is proper sharpening and setting of their blades. There are lots of woodworkers who really love working with hand tools, most will suggest you buy used and clean and tune them up--which is actually quite fun. I prefer just to buy new and really like the Wood River V3 brand for its quality and acceptable price.

Chisels are important particularly if you are making furniture. Sharpening chisels is a basic skill involving many ultra fine grits of sandpaper, ultra flat surfaces, maybe diamond grit sharpening stones—arcane stuff, but anything less than a razor sharp chisel is pretty useless. Don’t scrimp on chisels, cheap ones get dull fast. Look up sharpening methods on YouTube, it takes patience but not much money to work sharp. I recently bought a diamond sharpening device with diamond dust imbedded in a nickel steel plate. It has small cut out ovals so the metal grit doesn't clog the diamond surface. Use these sparingly and use one of the specialty diamond sharpening lubricants with it. I use this for quick sharpening touch ups, just 4-5 strokes will do. It’s a little easier to use than the sand paper method, which I save for major sharpening tasks. The most important thing is to flatten the back of the first inch or two of the chisel. Unless that is flat, you can’t sharpen a chisel or plane blade (iron) accurately.

The one plane every shop should have is a small block plane. These have so many uses that’s it is hard to list them all, but they are really great for trimming up ends of workpieces, quickly rounding over edges without having to set up a router, fine fitting the length of a board. New ones can be had in decent quality for about $100 bucks and up. All planes require being tuned up before they are any good. You can look this process up on Youtube. Cheap block planes are passable if you really work them over first, but most won’t hold an edge very well and some are not milled accurately and will never cut right.


17) If you have a dedicated shop space, take the time and trouble to insulate it. You will enjoy working in it much more if you're not roasting or freezing. I recently installed a middle sized window AC unit through a shop shed wall for relief from our desert summer and it is now even more of a pleasure to be out there. Insulation also holds in heat during winter. A couple of heaters bring the temp up, but just one keeps it comfortable after that. Cold fingers are clumsy, not good around spinning blades!

Finally, Stick suggests that you use the Forum’s archives when you have questions. There is a wealth of answers to any questions you might have. He also cautions about using one word search terms, which can return massive amounts of information. Here’s the link: https://archive.org/

Woodworking is not necessarily a cheap hobby. Wood can be costly, so are decent tools, And there's hardware, stuff for jigs, dust collection and on and on as you get going. My good wood supplier is 60 miles away, so I often work in decent local pine and plywood with as many layers as I can find. I found some decent plywood at HD. Before long you will hear how superior Baltic Birch is to the best of HD ply, but you have to ferret out a decent source. Chinese made birch ply is generally no match for the real stuff, which, when you cut it shows no voids inside. To me the 60 miles is a small price to pay to work with the good ply.

This has run pretty long, but I think the information is helpful for someone new to the hobby. The suggestions represent a LOT of trial and error. And yes, you can spend a lot getting set up, but most of us built up our shop and tools over time, nearly a decade for me.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
DesertRatTom is offline  
post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-03-2016, 08:41 PM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 14,763
 
Default

Has he mentioned any projects he's interested in?

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-03-2016, 10:33 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Stick486's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Stick
Posts: 23,942
 
Default

have him join the th forum...
Web Shepherd and Rogerdodge like this.

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 07:19 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Art
Posts: 1,417
 
Default

I would tell him to get the cheap set. I bought one from Ebay years ago and am still using it. Chances are that he will not beat them up because of the very nature of what a router is made for. Until he has to make a lot of one certain fancy edge he will not wear out a cheap bit. Same goes for straight bits. When he needs to make something that he can't with his basic set then he can start to but single bits. To me bits are expendables and get thrown out if they get dull. I don't bother sharpening them because they are cheap enough to start with. There are exceptions as far as cheapness goes but I have never worn out a really expensive bit. One other thing I would tell him would be to make a table. Without one I doubt that he will get much use out of his new tool.
Cherryville Chuck likes this.
mgmine is offline  
post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 12:53 PM
Registered User
 
bdbailey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Country: United States
First Name: Benjamin
Posts: 10
 
Default

@tar905 Thanks for the welcome and introduction, Tim!
@DesertRatTom Wow, that is a lot of information. Thanks so much! I printed it out and read through it. It will be great reference as I progress across this journey. I just got finished with cleaning some old tools I picked up.
@Cherryville Chuck I have a lot of projects in mind. Short-term, a hanging bookshelf with carved supports, a small wooden box with a carved top, etc. For long-term projects, I am currently undergoing cleaning my family's garage (which has a long, shallow wooden counter set against the wall with two peg-boards above , and windows in-between,) researching woodworking tools, asking for advice, and planning on building a number of pieces to prepare the garage for a more proper woodworking space. Those projects are:

1. Tool cabinet with door, with cut-out nooks to hang specific power tools (like we had at my college,) instead of storing the tools in old, fraying cardboard boxes.
2. Long, wooden shelf of spaced "hooks" hung near the ceiling to store a number of long PVC pipes I do not want to dispose of.
3. A quality, modular bicycle rack. 4-piece to fit 4 bikes, but able to disconnect each piece so when someone moves out they can still stand their bike up in their new home.
4. And the main, behemoth task of making a quality, heavy, ~3'x8' solid wood woodworking table, complete with end vices and leg vices. A place to craft all future woodworking projects. I saw similar tables our woodworking shop supervisor had made for our college, and I fell in love with their durability and quality and beauty. Attached are some examples of the type of table I'm talking about, though none are exactly what I am wanting. Mine would not be stained, for example, or would have a different layout.
@Stick486 Done! Hi! Glad to be here.
@mgmine Thanks! Perhaps we can get a cheap set as well as 2 quality, expensive bits of the types that we will use the very most. I have a lot of reading and research to do still.

Thanks everyone, for your help and advice!

--------------------------------
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	woodworking-table-designs-woodworking-table-plans-table-plans-pdf-download-on-chair-and-table-aw.jpg
Views:	75
Size:	118.2 KB
ID:	236938  

Click image for larger version

Name:	woodworking-bench.jpg
Views:	57
Size:	50.2 KB
ID:	236946  

Click image for larger version

Name:	woodworking table.jpg
Views:	44
Size:	705.6 KB
ID:	236954  

Click image for larger version

Name:	wb-feb2016-1web.jpg
Views:	40
Size:	20.9 KB
ID:	236962  

Click image for larger version

Name:	table_woodworking..jpg
Views:	48
Size:	679.1 KB
ID:	236970  

Click image for larger version

Name:	F21G1LTFUI0RV18.MEDIUM.jpg
Views:	40
Size:	28.7 KB
ID:	236978  

bdbailey is offline  
post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 01:30 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Country: United States
First Name: lee
Posts: 736
 
Default

You have arrived when you can do the above.
coxhaus is offline  
post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 01:35 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Stick486's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Stick
Posts: 23,942
 
Default

Quote:
1. Tool cabinet with door, with cut-out nooks to hang specific power tools (like we had at my college,) instead of storing the tools in old, fraying cardboard boxes.
2. Long, wooden shelf of spaced "hooks" hung near the ceiling to store a number of long PVC pipes I do not want to dispose of.
3. A quality, modular bicycle rack. 4-piece to fit 4 bikes, but able to disconnect each piece so when someone moves out they can still stand their bike up in their new home.

@bdbailey ...
is that your build???

take a read here...
http://www.routerforums.com/profile....1&showthumbs=1

look to shelving unit w/ sliding doors...
lots of storage and limited loss of wall space...
keps everyting cleaner too..

open shelving w/ OEM containers...
accessories stay w/ the tool...
even the ends of the shelving is usable..

.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2HD DOOR.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	48.3 KB
ID:	236986  

Click image for larger version

Name:	2ND DOOR OPEN.jpg
Views:	45
Size:	59.8 KB
ID:	236994  

Click image for larger version

Name:	CLAMP RACK 1.jpg
Views:	53
Size:	62.2 KB
ID:	237002  

Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010375.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	114.8 KB
ID:	237010  

Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010382.jpg
Views:	60
Size:	729.8 KB
ID:	237018  

Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010401.jpg
Views:	44
Size:	338.5 KB
ID:	237026  

Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010406.jpg
Views:	55
Size:	590.4 KB
ID:	237034  

Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010413E.jpg
Views:	43
Size:	108.8 KB
ID:	237042  

Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010414E.jpg
Views:	45
Size:	158.9 KB
ID:	237050  


This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 10-09-2016 at 01:50 PM.
Stick486 is online now  
post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 01:48 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Stick486's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Stick
Posts: 23,942
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bdbailey View Post

4. And the main, behemoth task of making a quality, heavy, ~3'x8' solid wood woodworking table, complete with end vices and leg vices. A place to craft all future woodworking projects. I saw similar tables our woodworking shop supervisor had made for our college, and I fell in love with their durability and quality and beauty. Attached are some examples of the type of table I'm talking about, though none are exactly what I am wanting. Mine would not be stained, for example, or would have a different layout.
this is dumpster salvaged material... about 10 bucks not counting the vises...
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010380.jpg
Views:	44
Size:	114.7 KB
ID:	237082  

Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010378.jpg
Views:	41
Size:	71.0 KB
ID:	237090  

Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010377.jpg
Views:	43
Size:	105.1 KB
ID:	237098  

Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010426.jpg
Views:	43
Size:	831.4 KB
ID:	237106  


This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 04:41 PM
Registered User
 
bdbailey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Country: United States
First Name: Benjamin
Posts: 10
 
Default

@coxhaus I have not arrived. Hopefully before too long I will!

@Stick486 No, just examples I found on Google Images. Wow! You really have a lot of tools. Cool setup. Looks like a film/television production supply cage. Impressive.
bdbailey is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Advice for half lap joints by total newbie..... Penquin General Routing 38 02-12-2018 01:08 AM
Newbie needing advice on Craftsman Marpat General Routing 6 09-11-2012 01:04 PM
Newbie Shop advice? thedadslife Tools and Woodworking 4 12-19-2011 05:30 PM
Newbie looking for advice LAMEIII New Member Introductions 2 11-02-2010 12:19 AM
Newbie needs advice enggass General Routing 4 07-05-2010 11:08 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome