Counter Top No-Drip Router Bit - Router Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Default Counter Top No-Drip Router Bit

I am in the process of making some laminate counter tops that will have a wood edge. I would like to put a no-drip edge on the counter tops to prevent water and liquids from spilling onto the floor. I've seen these bits but would like to buy a name brand bit. I buy most of my bits from Infinity but they do not have such a bit. Anybody have any recommendations on where to buy one? Or any suggestions on making the edge using any other bit(s) or methods?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 05:45 PM
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https://www.amazon.com/Freud-85-011-.../dp/B00004T7L5
I'm pretty sure I've seen one in Amana's catalogue and I think CMT's too.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-85-011-.../dp/B00004T7L5
I'm pretty sure I've seen one in Amana's catalogue and I think CMT's too.
Thank You. There are 2 different bit styles. One is an ogee style and works from the top and the other has a bearing and works from the front as in your link. Any info on the benefits of each method?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-85-011-.../dp/B00004T7L5
I'm pretty sure I've seen one in Amana's catalogue and I think CMT's too.
I checked out Amana, CMT, Freud, and Southeast Tool. They all had the bits and a limited amount of info on actual usage. Then I found the Lee Valley site which provided a lot of info and directions on using the bit.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 12:25 PM
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I had forgotten that LV sold them. In a router bit test LV's bits came in 2nd behind Whiteside, well ahead of Freud, CMT, and Amana. I have a few and they are good bits. I've never used one Jim so I can't comment on that. A counter top is too big to run across a router table so you'll have to use it free hand but I would try to either rig up something that would attach to the router to keep it square to the edge or build a frame to attach to the counter top to give the router more surface for the bottom plate to sit on. Otherwise you will likely get an uneven edge.
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Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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I had forgotten that LV sold them. In a router bit test LV's bits came in 2nd behind Whiteside, well ahead of Freud, CMT, and Amana. I have a few and they are good bits. I've never used one Jim so I can't comment on that. A counter top is too big to run across a router table so you'll have to use it free hand but I would try to either rig up something that would attach to the router to keep it square to the edge or build a frame to attach to the counter top to give the router more surface for the bottom plate to sit on. Otherwise you will likely get an uneven edge.
Lee Valley had some suggestions for routing with the edge already applied to the counter similar to yours. I would like to make and finish the wood edge and then attach it and straight long sections of wood edge could be done on the table but there would be potential problems with inside and outside curves which I would like to have. The ogee style bit might be a better option but Lee Valley doesn't make one. Decisions, decisions.....back to the drawing board.
FWIW Lee Valley instructions are really very detailed and helpful.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 02:22 PM
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There is a wealth of information to be had by going through the descriptions in their catalogs. What you want to do is similar to applying solid wood banding to the edge of a panel. Machine the banding first or try after it has been applied? Both have issues to overcome. I've pre-machined the banding first and you can get it to line up well with at least one edge but it requires a lot of clamps and cauls. I clamp the cauls to one face and then clamp the banding to the caul and then apply pressure against the panel edge. Clamping that no drip edge like that won't work. I would test machine a scrap piece first and see if you can make it work and if you can't then it's on to plan B.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-26-2017, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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There is a wealth of information to be had by going through the descriptions in their catalogs. What you want to do is similar to applying solid wood banding to the edge of a panel. Machine the banding first or try after it has been applied? Both have issues to overcome. I've pre-machined the banding first and you can get it to line up well with at least one edge but it requires a lot of clamps and cauls. I clamp the cauls to one face and then clamp the banding to the caul and then apply pressure against the panel edge. Clamping that no drip edge like that won't work. I would test machine a scrap piece first and see if you can make it work and if you can't then it's on to plan B.
They ain't sharing the wealth. I had an email back-and-forth with an Amana distributor and a phone conversation with a CMT rep. CMT's 2016 annual sales of the ogee style bit was (drum roll, please) a whopping 3 bits. I had made a flush trim jig that sits flat on the surface and allows the edge to be flushed, profiled, etc......this should work well with the ogee style bit. Just need to make the templates to cut the curved corner hardwood edging. I just finished making the laminate seaming jig. Making the jigs is fun....not looking forward to wrestling with and installing the actual counter tops.
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