Sommerfeld Router Bits...Bearing Sizes - Router Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Default Sommerfeld Router Bits...Bearing Sizes

I'm a bit of a newbie to router tables and cabinetmaking but I have decided to jump into it with both feet.
I purchased the Sommerfeld cabinetmaking set. It includes router, table, three sets of bits, etc. Just started practicing with it today, boy am I going to need a lot of practice.

I would like to know what the different sized bearings that come in the sets are for. I assume that they will create deeper or shallower cuts but I usually get into trouble when I assume.

I am also wondering about the 'not having to adjust height of each bit once one bit in set is adjusted'. In some of the literature, it states that the pattern bit may have to be adjusted to meet the cove cutter. They also say that the panel cutter may have to be adjusted to fit the pattern cutter. It states that you may need to practice on several scrap pieces till you get it right.

Would appreciate any feed back.

Thanks in Advance!
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 12:19 AM
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Mike here is an example of what changing the bearing can on a roundover bit. With one bearing you get the roundover. With a smaller bearing you get an edge profile. You can get a rabbeting kit like this too. One bit but different size bearings or rub collars that slip on the bearings.

Freud Tools | 3/8" Radius Rounding Over Bit (Quadra-Cut)
Freud Tools | flush, 1/8",1/4",5/16",3/8",7/16",1/2" Depth Rabbeting Bit with Bearings

The various bearings give you different depths of rabbet.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 12:37 AM
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Mike
Use utube look for Marc Sommerfeld videos they take you how to use all the cabinet making bits
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 12:49 AM
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Hi, I really like the Sommerfeld stuff. Several things occur to me. First, the matched sets don't require adjustment other than the first height setting because all the shanks are exactly the same length.

Since you're not supposed to bottom out the shank on a router, you place a half inch, common rubber grommet (supplied with sets) in the bottom of the collet. That way all subsequent bits are seated exactly the same.

Next, notice that the finished side always goes down, so the cuts are all relative to the top or finished side of the work pieces. For this reason, you must make sure all our work pieces are the same thickness. If you are buying big box wood, that's pretty easy to manage, but you have to take care to pick pretty flat pieces, maybe one in 10-20 pieces will pass muster.

The solution is really to buy extra thick stock and mill it down to be straight, flat and just the right thickness. That will require buying wood carefully and/or eventually buying a jointer and planer. These tools may or may not be necessary.

If you mill your wood yourself, you have to use it fairly soon after milling. That process often releases stresses in the wood so it will warp it beyond usability. You should make sure the stock spends a few days in your shop area to aclimatize.

Sommerfeld makes a star shaped EasyJig for setting height on its bits. You turn a dial on the jig to the thickness of the stock, and adjust the height of your bit using the jig. From then on while using the sets, all other bits are the correct height.

They make a red version of this for setting up Freud matched sets. Freud bits are fine, I just prefer Sommerfeld's. Everyone has their preferences on blades and bits.

I went ahead and purchased the entire Sommerfeld video sets, although they are all on YouTube. I like being able to sit down and watch with any stops and starts.

Plywood is a wonderful thing, but there's a whole range of types, ranging from the Chinese stuff you get at the big box stores. Ok for, well, really coarse work. Then there is Baltic Birch, which has 13 layers and no voids between layers. Comes in 5ft square sheets, usually very flat because of all those layers, and cuts with very little splintering. Ply is often used for the body (carcus) of cabinets, and sometimes a nice grade of cheaper ply will do for that purpose.

One thing I suggest you check out soon is pocket screw joinery. It is a really strong and easy, particularly for face frames and squaring up boxes. The Kreg K4 kit is what I use, but there is a later model as well. Use the square headed screws rather then the Phillips heads. Use coarse threads for soft wood, fine threads for hardwoods.

This may be more than you wanted to know for now, and you can do a lot with what you find at the big orange box. Just depends on what you want to make.

Have fun with this. it is very satisfying.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 01:11 AM
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bearing set can have 2~3 bearings or as many as on up to 30 bearings... (SAE and Metric sets combined - but what for)
a 5 or 6 bearing set will cover a lot of territory...
better bearings won't leave you hanging or wanting... and less likely to screw up your project...
BTW.. those Freud quadra cuts are sweet...

see if this helps...
.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 01:14 AM
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don't know if you already got these... but here goes anyways...
bit of collected knowledge..

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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 01:16 AM
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I know you want more...

.
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File Type: pdf R3 Router Maintenance.pdf (501.1 KB, 67 views)
File Type: pdf Guide to Router Collets.pdf (163.0 KB, 67 views)
File Type: pdf GUIDE BUSHINGS.pdf (246.7 KB, 65 views)
File Type: pdf Collet_Maintenance.pdf (86.2 KB, 60 views)
File Type: pdf Cleaning Blades and Bits.pdf (194.9 KB, 63 views)
File Type: pdf Care and Sharpening of Router Bits.pdf (2.21 MB, 71 views)
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhtmtree View Post
I'm a bit of a newbie to router tables and cabinetmaking but I have decided to jump into it with both feet.
I purchased the Sommerfeld cabinetmaking set. It includes router, table, three sets of bits, etc. Just started practicing with it today, boy am I going to need a lot of practice.

I would like to know what the different sized bearings that come in the sets are for. I assume that they will create deeper or shallower cuts but I usually get into trouble when I assume.

I am also wondering about the 'not having to adjust height of each bit once one bit in set is adjusted'. In some of the literature, it states that the pattern bit may have to be adjusted to meet the cove cutter. They also say that the panel cutter may have to be adjusted to fit the pattern cutter. It states that you may need to practice on several scrap pieces till you get it right.

Would appreciate any feed back.

Thanks in Advance!
Hi Mike, Welcome to RouterForums

To make it all simple, your assumption about the role of the different sized bearings is correct.
Also, Sommerfeld Tools is very proud that all bits in its sets are height adjusted as sold, so the height adjustment for eacb bit you refer to is not necessary; with Sommerfeld sets adjust the height of the first bit for the task then all others are set.
Personally I find Sommerfeld to be a superb source of high quality bits, but they have a relatively limited set of profiles.

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