22mm Bullnose Window Board - Router Forums
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Default 22mm Bullnose Window Board

Hello there, I have a project which requires me to round the edge of a window board other than the already pre-rounded face. The flat side which needs to be rounded must match the pre-existing rounded face.

Can anyone please tell me which router bit I need for this? The depth of the rounded edge appears to be approx. 7mm.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 02:35 PM
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It sounds like a simple round over bit would work but I am not sure what you are asking from your description. Can you tell us more about what you mean by the rounded edge being 7mm?
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 05:39 PM
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7mm is very close to 1/4". However, like Oliver I would like a bit more information and possibly a sketch. Quite often fits like you are suggesting can be achieved most easily with sandpaper, cabinet scrapers, planes, and or sharp chisels.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 02:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for your replies.

The 7mm depth refers to the distance from the edge (tip) of the rounded end to the point at which the wood becomes flat. I have created an image to give you a rough idea.



I don't have the time or tools to do this manually, and I know the results I would get would not be good enough, I'm hoping there is a router bit I can use for this.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-21-2017, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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Hello?
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-21-2017, 03:13 PM
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Hey, Shaun; Lots of questions (from me ).
-How much, in feet/meters do you need?
-Is the flat stock already primed or painted?
-Can you make a drawn profile from the end of an existing piece (as a template/sample)?
-Do you have a bit supplier reasonably close by, to take your scrap piece or template to, for matching?

For myself, I'd do that last item first and if that didn't work out I'd get a HSS or Carbide bit custom ground to an exact fit.
Chances are excellent that if it's a piece from the '60s or earlier, that it was done on a shaper not with a router...ie an exact match isn't gonna happen!
I'm with Charles on the 'let sandpaper be your friend' thing. You really only need to blend the actual miters, not the whole length, if it's really a close match.

*Nice illustration by the way!
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Last edited by DaninVan; 06-21-2017 at 03:15 PM. Reason: Added text
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-21-2017, 06:16 PM
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What kind of router do you have and what is the bit shank size it will take?

Herb
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-22-2017, 02:07 AM
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Along the lines of what I previously said and what Dan said, normally it only has to look perfect, it doesn't actually have to be perfect. There can be a huge gap in time, work, and tooling between those two concepts.
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Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-23-2017, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your replies. I have a 1/4 inch freehand router and a 1/2 inch table mounted router.

The total size is less than 1 metre.

26.5cm deep x 10cm wide x 21mm thickness

It needs to be rounded on two sides like in this image (red represents rounding)



The rounding needs to be done in the same way a window board is rounded.

I don't think there is a bit supplier close to me and I cannot take a profile from the existing as it is from the top of a step profile. I expect that it was made in 1958, so you are spot on!


Last edited by Cherryville Chuck; 06-23-2017 at 11:49 AM.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-23-2017, 12:02 PM
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Shaun I can't make your link work either. You'll have to down load it to your computer first and then if you use the Advanced Reply it will have a button you can click on labelled Manage Attachments below the text box. Click on it then find the (image?) file you need and upload it into that reply. If you need more help with that let me know.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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