Trying to cut slots crossgrain in soft pine? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Default Trying to cut slots crossgrain in soft pine?

Just been using a 1/4" 12.7mm straight bit on my Elu midget Router table to cut a slot crossgrain on a piece of 6" x 12.5mm soft pine. The job is to produce a 'slide' that fits the slots on either side & will accommodate a 'sliding' base or tray cut from the same size of stock.
Basically it's a box that has a tray on the bottom that can be removed. Trouble is that for one reason (or MANY) I'm getting a fairly rough cut which without expecting 'perfection' I'd like to improve.
Remedies I'm planning are New Trend Straight bit cutter, Increase/Decrease speed of Router? or Use Hardwood! (only joking!)
Is it possible to effect a clean(ish) cut on this cheap & cheerful Timber with less tearout?

Last edited by hagheid; 06-28-2017 at 06:08 PM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Couple of photos of the vandalised wood!
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 05:31 PM
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There's pine, and the there's pine. A lot of the stuff sold by the likes of B&Q (for American readers this is our equivalent of "the Borg" or Home Depot) is white pine - really meant only for wall studwork and rough carpentry and just not of joinery quality. What you need to use is joinery quality redwood (not the same as redwood in the USA, BTW), spruce, douglas fir or even alder (sold as a joinery pine replacement, but in fact a hardwood) all of which cut much more cleanly. If you persist in using non-joinery grade softwoods then the only other thing to try might be HSS cutters as opposed to TCT. HSS can take a far sharper edge than TCT and will often show less signs of tear-out on soft, stringy softwoopds = but beware, it burns easily and the edge is really short lived!

BTW if you rout a cross-grain trench (housing) that close to the edge then the short grain between the edge of the material and the groove wil invariably crumble away at the first sign of stress or loading. Try to groove in the direction of the grain and at least the same distance in from the edge that the groove os wide for better di=urability and smoother sliding of components (as it will be with the grain)
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Last edited by Job and Knock; 06-28-2017 at 05:35 PM.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Many thanks Eric.
It's all down to unit price sadly but I could use better quality timber for the sides for sure. Just ordered a Trend TCT & will try that to see if any improvement can be achieved. Regarding the proximity to the edge that's a salient point & I'll adjust the sizing to offset the stress. (No great load anticipated though!) Re- Router speed, any suggestions on the optimum speed to cut this stuff? Re Re- Going with the grain I'll need to see if 7" untreated Redwood stock is economic (these are just Bird Boxes & everything is down to saving pennies!)
I'll cut again & post to see if any improvement is gained
Once more, very many thanks for all the excellent advice
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 06:20 PM
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Go to a smaller diameter Bit, make two cuts one for each side of the rebate.
Your bit is running the wrong direction on the side that is splinter.
You also could scribe each side before you cut the rebate
You probably wouldn't have this problem with hardwood but pine is soft
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 07:15 PM
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do as Semipro says...
and use a clean sharp bit...
swal the wood w/ sanding sealer or lacquer 1st...
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 07:23 PM
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Me, I'd just glue a couple of strips along the bottom for the 'tray' to rest on.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 08:28 PM
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All my cross grain box joints I saw.
Set up the sled adjust the blade height and go for it.
Cheers
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 08:41 PM
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Two cuts as John said and if you are still having problems then use a bit with a downshear cutting action. If using the downshear you may need a groove down the center to give the chips an escape route but that could be made with a saw. That would be 3 passes but you'll find that things speed up quite a bit when the chips can be ejected easily.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 08:47 PM
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That looks like a job for a version of my exact width dado jig...and scribe with a sharp knife where the edge will be.

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...-dado-jig.html
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