Although Whiteside sells a B1A ball bearing at 1/4" OD, it would be undersized to the carbide of the 2005C.
Does anyone know of a 1/8" radius round-over, preferably in 1/2" shank, that has a 1/4" OD bearing? I like Whiteside and Amana, but will consider others.
But they don't say which bit it would fit but their 1/8" RO bit has an OD of 3/4" so I'd guess that the bearing is 1/2" (1/2 + (2 x 1/8). If you need the bearing to be 1/4", would one of the bits with an integral brass bearing work for you? Infinity Tools has a 1/8"O bit with a brass pilot - and I'd guess that the brass is 3/16" OD from the dimensions - but it only comes in 1/4" shank.
If you need the bearing to be 1/4", would one of the bits with an integral brass bearing work for you? Infinity Tools has a 1/8"O bit with a brass pilot - and I'd guess that the brass is 3/16" OD from the dimensions - but it only comes in 1/4" shank.
Not knowing what the OP plans to do with the bit................. The problem with just changing the bearing is that the OD of the cutter at the bearing also needs to be considered - look at the photos of the bits, admittedly generic, but they all show the bottom of the radius in line with the OD of the bearing (and I guess that's a given if you want a true roundover - the bit and bearing have to be the same diameter). Putting a smaller bearing on a bit like that will give a beading profile at the bottom of the part.
I'm making some puzzles on my CNC, but this could also be an issue with a template rounting that had square inside corners also. The inside corners are 1/8" radius from a 1/4" diameter router bit. I want to get a smooth round-over on that corner. So, any bearing larger than 1/4" diameter ends up with a mismatch in the corner showing un-rounded edge.
I tried a couple of the brass tipped bits last night and the result is good. This would have to be a secondary rounting since there is a lot of other round-over to do and would be best with the 1/2" shank round-over.
Steve, if you are using the CNC to make these parts take a look at this site. I use these in my CNC for rounding over the edges of letters I cut out of Premium MDF.
This is what I would use. Use a profile toolpath and profile ON the vector. If the point cutting round over has a flat tip then offset it slightly to compensate.
Steve, I think I have a solution to your router bit problem. This is based on what I interpret from your description.
If you are cutting your parts on the CNC and can use the CNC type round over bit to apply the round over to the first cut side then the solution would be to take a scrap piece of 3/4" thick stock and rout the pattern into it BUT in the inverted position. Cut the shape pocket approx 1/16" deeper than the part height above the top side radius. Then use that cut pattern as the outline to use the CNC round over bit to cut the round over on the second side. A small piece of double sided tape should hold the part in place so long as the pocket is cut to a snug enough tolerance to the part shape yet install/remove without issue.
I have used this process myself using vacuum to hold the part steady, but my parts were non porous so there was no vacuum loss. Wood won't give the same stability for vacuum but the double sided tape does work well. Sorry I didn't think of this earlier.
If you are cutting your parts on the CNC and can use the CNC type round over bit to apply the round over to the first cut side then the solution would be to take a scrap piece of 3/4" thick stock and rout the pattern into it BUT in the inverted position. Cut the shape pocket approx 1/16" deeper than the part height above the top side radius. Then use that cut pattern as the outline to use the CNC round over bit to cut the round over on the second side. A small piece of double sided tape should hold the part in place so long as the pocket is cut to a snug enough tolerance to the part shape yet install/remove without issue.
I will think about it. Flipping it and cutting the reverse side would probably take longer than the secondary 5 minute table routing of each. It would give a cleaner final appearance. Of course, the burn bucket may get some while I tune it in.
Steve.
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