Looking for a specific chair rail bit. - Router Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Default Looking for a specific chair rail bit.

My house is full of this chair rail but I cannot find anywhere to buy it. Can anyone help me figure out where to find it or a bit or bits to make it? 1 inch X 3-1/16th inch.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 03:29 PM
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near as I can tell that is a 3 maybe 4 bit composite cut...
get several router bit catalogs from different manufactures and thumb the pages..
here how it's done...

..
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
near as I can tell that is a 3 maybe 4 bit composite cut...
get several router bit catalogs from different manufactures and thumb the pages..
Thank you.

Now just wondering if it's worth it for one wall or just get something close and redo the room.

So I'm seeing some of the profile in a 1/2" roundover and maybe a box but the bead at the bottom? A 1/8 roundover? And ... ?

Phillip

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 08:46 PM
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could you clean that paint or caulk off of the piece to give me a very clean/sharp profile edge post another picture...
what do you plan on using for material to make this molding out of???
redoing the room has definitely got it's merits...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 12:04 PM
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While you are looking at bits make sure you check out the ovolo type bits that are not bearing guided. Using them means you'll have to do them on a table and leave a small section of wood at either end of the profile to support the piece until you are finished, at which time you will turn the piece over and saw them off at the TS.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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I think I may have found how this was done. It would have taken several cuts but it makes sense of the profile and I see all of cuts here. https://ballewsaw.com/magicmolderpro...es-on-one-page

Working on getting a better picture but I think I?m just going to Home Depot it and replace the one room. It is our music/formal room so it being a little different will be fine and besides I?m doing more judges panel framing in there.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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@Cherryville Chuck

Thanks I wouldn?t have known to look for that. As you may be able to see from my other post that is what I think was done for this peice. And may have been cut with a molding dado table-saw blade. I recently came across such a blade when I purchased a lathe at an auction. The dado blade was in a box of parts that cam with the lathe.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 03:07 PM
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that cutter head is next level dangerous...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 04:47 PM
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I have to disagree somewhat with Stick on that although it certainly can be dangerous and needs extra respect. I've had and used one for at least 25 years although I have need for it only occasionally. A company called Corob Cutter still makes knives for that head and they sell for about $17 per set if I remember right. It was originally meant for use only with radial arm saws since you cut away for wood that often needs to support the piece if used on a TS, therefore you use the same method as with the bearing-less router bits. Leave wood on either side of the cut for support until you're done and then cut those parts off.

One other thing to note with the use of that head is that it requires a spacer on the inside of the head up against the fixed inside blade washer. Otherwise, without the spacer, you will hit part of the arbor framework. If you try to use it make sure you can spin the head by hand before you turn the power on. The spacer washer is approximately 1/4" thick without me going out and measuring mine for a precise measure. It hopefully came with the set. It sounds like you are chopping wood at high speed when you use it so be aware and be careful not to get your hands too close to it.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 08:55 AM
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Phillip, I have the sears molding version of the corob molding tool. I have used it on my table saw and have been very happy with how well it works. Visit corob cutters website to get more info.
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