Newbie - Need help from A to Z :) - Router Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-23-2018, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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Default Newbie - Need help from A to Z :)

Hello, I am new to routing. I have owned a router for 15 years but never really wanted to use it...to intimidating. Now I am at the point that I have not choice but using it! Here the project: about 30 cut out handles for my 18mm BB Ply drawer front. I can build a jig but I need some help to identify the bits I need. Easier if I put the template on the top of the drawers. I am assuming Pattern Bits is the way to go what which one and where to buy. See the picture to have an idea about what I am trying to accomplish. Thanks very much for helping. LV
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-23-2018, 11:14 AM
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Hi kitui, welcome to our little corner of the 'net.

For something like this, you would certainly need a bearing guided straight bit.. either top or bottom mounted bearing, both would accomplish this.

If it was me, I would make a template the exact size of the cutout that you need. Once you have the cutout made, place it where you need the opening made. Draw the outline on your work piece. Then, cut most of it out with your bandsaw or jigsaw. Don't cut it all with your router.. the bit will over heat and fail. Cut to within 1/4" to 1/8" of your line. Then, fasten the template in place with double-sided tape. Then, with your bearing riding on your template, cut the remainder out with your router. This will leave you with rounded inside corners. You will have to square them up with a chisel, or, if you like the way the corners look, leave them. The choice is yours to make.

Search "template routing" on youtube for lots of examples of using a template.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-23-2018, 11:39 AM
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Welcome Kitui. I agree with what Brian said. You can use a pattern bit with bearing on the bit shaft or a flush trim bit with bearing on the bottom. The difference in using them is which side you put your template on. The advantage of using the bottom bearing bit is that you can get a bit with a smaller radius so that you may not need to square the corners after.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-23-2018, 11:58 AM
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Welcome aboard.

Definitely make a template that you can use to make identical designs for each work piece.

Like Brian said, a flush trim bit will make a smooth edge, but first you need to cut away the waste using a jig saw. Then attach the template with the double sided tape. If you are nervous about the templatte moving, attach a couple of clamps for a minute or two, then take them off so they won't be i the way.

Here are some pictures taken while I was building my new work bench.
I made a template out of 1/2 inch mdf.
Then I laid out the design where each opening would be.
Next, I cut out the openings with a jig saw leaving about 1/8th inch for the router to clean up.
My router had a 1 inch router bit with a top mounted bearing in it. It was easy to make the clean up pass because only a little was being removed.

Note that I was making two identical pieces (front side and rear).

Hope this helps.
Mike
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-24-2018, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
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Excellent, thanks for all great suggestions....I guess I still need to do a 2 steps job (jig saw first and router after). Unfortunately I need to figure out how to collect dust from the jigsaw. The reason why I wanted to skip the jigsaw is because I cannot collect dust while using it and...I am in the house. It is much easier to collect dust from the router. It is too cold outside and cannot wait for summer to initiate this. I am courious ...While anybody is suggesting to route the cut out only (not the hole shape, just the C) a little bit at the time (like a juice groove for a cutting board but...all the way with several passes). I am saving tons of money not purchasing handles and knobs for the tons of drawers that I can invest in a quality bit that save time and tasks but does not burn on me/wood.
Other questions: I thought that the bearing has to be as tall as the wood template. I guess it does not matter. Please advise. I am assuming that I need to raise the finish panel (under the template) off the table because it is better to leave 1/8" free for the blade to rotate. What size of bit should I use? I have 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 however they are straight bit and not pattern bit. The router manual does not reference to any accessories and I really have no idea which bit to buy.
Thanks again!!

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-24-2018, 07:39 AM
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Welcome to the forum, Kitui! All good advice above, be sure to post photos of anything you're having difficulty with and one of these router gurus will jump right in. Good luck with your project!

David
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-24-2018, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitui View Post
Excellent, thanks for all great suggestions....I guess I still need to do a 2 steps job (jig saw first and router after). Unfortunately I need to figure out how to collect dust from the jigsaw.

Thanks again!!
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-24-2018, 10:03 AM
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Kitui, another option, instead of bearing bits you could use guide bushings. Here's some info: https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwor...guide-bushings
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-29-2018, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Hello everybody, I forgot to mention: I have a plunge router so the bits that I need will be for this router. I would love to hear from you in term of type of bit and size. On an additional note, I figure out that it might be easier to make 35mm holes and use these holes as finger pulls. I have a 35mm Forstner bit (Kreg) with the jig that I can use. I made a hole and I think is good. The question is...do I still need to route the hole? If yes...should I buy a palm router instead of the bulky plunge router? Keep in mind that I am using BB so I cannot really smooth the edge much (I think some sand paper might be enough). What is the distance of the edge of the hole from the edge of the drawer you would recommend? It looks like 1" might be good enough. Thanks for your great input!
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