MCLS Router Bits - Page 7 - Router Forums
 60Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #61 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 11:50 AM
Forum Contributor
 
Herb Stoops's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Country: United States
First Name: Herb
Posts: 8,627
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gn86 View Post
Newb with first router (used plunge router) looking to get a bit set to get started. I noticed that a lot of the small-ish budget sets do not include a rabbeting bit, but the MLCS set does - specifically, I was looking at the MLCS 8377 15-pc set with 1/2" shanks (too newb to have link posting permissions, but if you search for that item, it will come up, or search on Amazon for "B000FJRN8S").

Couple of questions on this set. Does it have different size bearings (and can I move them from bit to bit) so that I can cut different size rabbets?

Are the straight cut bits the correct size to cut dados for US dimensioned plywood, or are they true to size, meaning plywood will fit loosely?
You may want to look at this set,or a similar one for doing a lot of rabbiting:

https://www.amazon.com/CMT-835-501-1...i&sr=1-1-fkmr1

Herb
gn86 likes this.
Herb Stoops is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #62 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 03:38 PM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 16,207
 
Default

If you think you'll be doing very many rabbets Jay then you'll at least want to get a set like Herb linked to and if you plan on really doing a lot then you'll want to get a bit with replaceable carbide cutters like this Amana: https://www.toolstoday.com/insert-su...uter-bits.html It's a lot more money but you only replace the cutting edges not the whole bit and some say those cutters last longer because they didn't get welded on.

As for dadoes to fit US finish plywood, that's a problem because finish plywood starts out at the correct size but then gets sanded so it winds up undersize. 3/4" finish ply might only be 23/32 or less when sanded. As a result, some members use an exact width dado jig and use a smaller bit and then cuts each edge of the channel separately. Some links to exact width dado jigs can be found in some posts in this thread.
https://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fi...-dado-jig.html
DesertRatTom, Herb Stoops and gn86 like this.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is offline  
post #63 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 04:58 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Country: United States
First Name: Jay
Posts: 10
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb Stoops View Post
You may want to look at this set,or a similar one for doing a lot of rabbiting:

Herb
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
If you think you'll be doing very many rabbets Jay then you'll at least want to get a set like Herb linked to and if you plan on really doing a lot then you'll want to get a bit with replaceable carbide cutters like this Amana: It's a lot more money but you only replace the cutting edges not the whole bit and some say those cutters last longer because they didn't get welded on.
I don't expect I'll be doing much rabbeting or much routing in general - more of an occasional use thing, at least that's what I'm thinking at this point, after having just picked up my first router. I was looking at that MLCS set because I was thinking I could get a budget set that covers my near-term anticipated uses - i.e., round over, dado, rabbet. And when I looked at the sub-20 piece budget sets, most of them didn't have a rabbeting bit, which is why the MLCS caught my eye. The rabbeting bit would be useful if I can swap bearings and cut different width rabbets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
As for dadoes to fit US finish plywood, that's a problem because finish plywood starts out at the correct size but then gets sanded so it winds up undersize. 3/4" finish ply might only be 23/32 or less when sanded. As a result, some members use an exact width dado jig and use a smaller bit and then cuts each edge of the channel separately. Some links to exact width dado jigs can be found in some posts in this thread.
Thanks. OK, so I'll scratch the idea of getting plywood/undersized bits.

That makes the MLCS set even more interesting because it could cover everything I have in mind near-term: round over bits, straight cut bits (used with an exact width dado jig for plywood joints) and rabbeting bit.

If someone makes a budget set with just those bits, I'd be interested - no plans for making anything for indoors (furniture, picture frames, etc.), so no need for a lot of the bits. The MLCS was the closest thing I could find.
gn86 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #64 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 07:57 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Herb Stoops's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Country: United States
First Name: Herb
Posts: 8,627
 
Default

For just occasional use the MCLS bits are OK, I have some, but for serious work I use the Infinity or Freud. And there are other good sets out there, but you get what you pay for in router bits.

There are usually sales going on during the year that some good bargains can be had.

The best bet is to buy just the bit you need to do the job on hand and then you have it and can buy a different one for the next one, that way you build a set of bits that are used for the type of work you do.
Straight bits are not that expensive and can do a lot of standard cuts., by using the fence on the table to set the distances. and with bearings to do template routing ,which you will like once you do it. it just requires a straight bit with a bearing guide on top that follows the template you make and cuts out the part exactly like the template.


https://www.infinitytools.com/routin...outer-bit-sets

Herb
DesertRatTom and gn86 like this.
Herb Stoops is online now  
post #65 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 09:22 PM
Forum Contributor
 
DesertRatTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Tom
Posts: 18,668
 
Default

My Sommerfeld bits are door sets, except for the dovetail bits that came with their dovetail jig. The quality of goods made in China depends on the marketing company's inspections and standards. For example, Laguna has its hybrid table saw and 14/12 band saw made in China (Taiwan is also China), and Laguna demands they seson their cast iron for 6 months or more so it stabilizes before milling. That kind of thing makes all the difference. I almost always buy bits as I need them. I have a strong preference for Freud bits, which are available in 2 days online, or 20 minutes at HD.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
DesertRatTom is offline  
post #66 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 09:43 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Country: United States
First Name: Jay
Posts: 10
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb Stoops View Post
For just occasional use the MCLS bits are OK
That's what I'm anticipating. And if I find myself making more than anticipated use out of a particular bit, I can step up to a Freud or other high quality bit for that profile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb Stoops View Post
Straight bits are not that expensive and can do a lot of standard cuts., by using the fence on the table to set the distances. and with bearings to do template routing ,which you will like once you do it. it just requires a straight bit with a bearing guide on top that follows the template you make and cuts out the part exactly like the template.
So any straight bit can be adapted with a bearing to do template routing, or you have to get a straight bit + bearing as one assembly?
gn86 is offline  
post #67 of 70 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 11:55 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Country: South Africa
First Name: Biagio
Posts: 472
 
Send a message via Skype™ to Biagio
Default

Jay, any straight bit can be fitted with a bearing and retaining collar ( outer diameter smaller than the bearing, and with a grub screw). However there is a practical limitation: for template routing the cutter diameter must generally be larger than the shaft of the bit, as the outer diameter of the bearing must be the same as the diameter of the cutter. If you look at one of the bit catalogues (I use the Lee Valley one, mostly to salivate), you will see the available combinations. If the shaft and cutter, are the same diameter, e.g. a straight 1/2” or 1/4” bit, you would need to sandwich the bearing between two retaining collars, which kind of defeats the purpose, except for some very clever applications.

There are of course exceptions, but these are usually not for straight bits, e.g. for dovetail bits, where the bearing OD may be larger than the cutter OD, depending on the fingers of the template.
Biagio is offline  
post #68 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 03:10 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Country: United States
First Name: DC
Posts: 77
 
Default

Have the MCLS chinese-made starter set but been replacing the ones I used most with Whiteside. Not sure if it's only me but it's night and day as the MCLS leaves a significant mount of tearout when doing dados for drawer bottoms. The Whiteside bit leaves very little to none.
anndel is offline  
post #69 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 03:25 AM
Forum Contributor
 
Stick486's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Stick
Posts: 30,660
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by anndel View Post
Have the MCLS chinese-made starter set but been replacing the ones I used most with Whiteside. Not sure if it's only me but it's night and day as the MCLS leaves a significant mount of tearout when doing dados for drawer bottoms. The Whiteside bit leaves very little to none.
it's not you...
Ray Newman likes this.

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #70 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 11:33 AM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 16,207
 
Default

A few years back there some really cheaply made bits from Asia that were made essentially the same as your local hardware store copies a key for you. They were really crappy. Poor carbide, sometimes not brazed well, and roughly sharpened. The gap has narrowed some because I don't think there is any maker left who isn't using a CNC to make them now, but the carbide quality, the sharpening, cutter geometry, the brazing, and quality control can still be issues so you still get what you pay for.

There are some rare circumstances when the rules seem to change a bit. I was talking to an uncle a few days ago who I consider to be a master woodworker. He was using a Freud to try and profile some knotty western red cedar. WRC has notoriously hard knots and the Freud chipped right away . Freud is supposed to use a C4 grade carbide. He switched to a cheaper C3 grade carbide bit and finished a fair size run with no problem. C3 handles impacts better than C4 does but isn't as hard so wears quicker.
Nickp and Herb Stoops like this.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Router speeds for different bits and types of wood judasentinel General Routing 15 05-21-2018 12:43 PM
Sort Members by City or Zip RJM60 Site Help and Suggestions 56 03-13-2014 05:40 PM
Replacement Router Bits for the Craftsman Router Crafter Brian in Burlington Router Bits - Types and Usage 1 11-17-2009 11:33 AM
How to buy router bits xplorx4 Router Bits - Types and Usage 31 02-09-2009 01:04 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome