Router Bit Recommendation - Router Forums
 4Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2018
Country: United States
First Name: Orlando
Posts: 89
 
Default Router Bit Recommendation

I'm having an issue with routing tenons on SYP. Lots of tear out on the shoulders and tenon face and ends. I'm using a DW 621, a 3/8D straight bit, the Microfence to dial in the width, and one of Pat Warner's tenon jigs. Is it a bit issue, router speed, or...? I have spiral bits as well as shearing straight bits (those whose cutters are not at 90* to the flute).

The tenons are to be 3/8" wide x 1-1/4" long. They are two-faced tenons.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
OBG65 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 07:01 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Stick486's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Stick
Posts: 25,160
 
Default

Quote:
two-faced tenons.
????

SYP is a terrible wood for fine WWing..
what brand of bit are you using???
have you tried a dado blade on your TS???

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 07:13 PM
Registered User
 
Nickp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Nick
Posts: 3,484
 
Default

Are you using a down spiral bit...? Should be...

Nick

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Points to Ponder...

LEARNING - the decision you make to know and
understand more about some thing.

TIME - the thing that gets in the way of learning.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Nickp is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2018
Country: United States
First Name: Orlando
Posts: 89
 
Default

Stick, I was using a Whiteside bit. I'm just making a router table and the tenons are on the rails that go into mortises on the legs I already cut. The tenon was done on a piece of equal dimension scrap to get the settings dialed in. And no, I haven't tied making tenons on a TS yet.

Nick, I'll try the downshear spiral bits next.
OBG65 is offline  
post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 08:35 PM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 14,999
 
Default

A table saw is quicker. I never use a router when the TS can do the job. Plus saw blades last many times longer than bits which makes that job cheaper in the long run.
TenGees and dirt_dobber like this.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is offline  
post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 09:20 PM
Registered User
 
CharleyL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Charley
Posts: 1,997
 
Default

When using a Leigh FMT, they recommend a light climb cut to prevent the chipping, followed by a second cut in the normal direction, and then a final pass around the tenon to clean it up. I've found that this works quite well when using my Leigh FMT Pro. The climb cut causes the bit to cut into the wood and as the bit exits the wood there is nothing left to chip out. Once the surface has been climb cut the cutting point in the wood is below the surface and the shoulder created by the climb cut will prevent the chipping. Yellow pine is difficult to work, but I have achieved good results using this Leigh method. Of course, a good sharp carbide spiral bit helps too. I use the up spirals with my FMT.

Charley
Nickp likes this.

Central North Carolina

Last edited by CharleyL; 02-10-2019 at 09:27 PM.
CharleyL is offline  
post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2018
Country: United States
First Name: Orlando
Posts: 89
 
Default

Charley, I climb cut as well, but it didn't help much. Going to the bits you guys have suggested and see which one(s) gives me the best result. This is a necessity project because I need a mobile router table. I have one that I mount onto my outfeed table and used to make the stopped mortises on the legs but it's somewhat limited. If anyone has Pat Warner's "The Router Table CD" it's the small one he shows on page 45. I'm building the bigger one he had. The next version will be made of much better wood.

Thanks for the help gentlemen. I appreciate it.
OBG65 is offline  
post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 12:06 PM
Forum Contributor
 
DesertRatTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Tom
Posts: 16,094
 
Default

I'm thinking down spiral bit, but also wonder whether you could use a sharp marking knife to scribe the cut line. Are your bits really sharp? I also prefer to use the TS rather than a router whenever possible.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
DesertRatTom is offline  
post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 03:54 PM
Registered User
 
DaninVan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Country: Canada
First Name: Dan
Posts: 14,003
 
Default

Is SYP your Southern variation of our Northern Spruce/Pine/Fir? Never heard the expression "SYP" before now(?).
Obviously, Charles has.
DaninVan is offline  
post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 04:44 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Stick486's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Stick
Posts: 25,160
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
Is SYP your Southern variation of our Northern Spruce/Pine/Fir? Never heard the expression "SYP" before now(?).
Obviously, Charles has.
Just about everybody down here has...
SYP and SPF are different animals...

SYP...


With more than 100 types growing worldwide, almost everyone gets pine confused. Only a handful of domestic pines commonly are used and may be separated into hard and soft -- or yellow and white. Yellow pine, consisting of shortleaf, longleaf, slash and loblolly, is classified as hard. White pine, consisting of sugar, eastern and western, is classified as soft. Both groups generically are referred to as white or yellow.

Yellow pine is a native of the Southeastern United States, growing naturally on plantations as far west as Mississippi and south to Virginia. It is one of the least-expensive applications for flooring that requires durability in high-traffic areas. Yellow pine has excellent strength-to-weight ratio. For this reason, it's used more often than white pine for structural members such as trusses, joists, poles, sheathing, subfloors and plywood

White pine grows prolifically on the East and West coast of the United States, and in Canada and Mexico. Lightweight and soft, white pine is even textured and easily milled and carved. White pine is used for items such as carvings, molding, millwork, trim, boards for boxes, crates and specialty items such as knotty pine paneling, cabinetry and furniture. White pine is the least resinous of all the pine species, lacking the pitch pockets found on other pine varieties.

Color is not a deciding difference between yellow and white pine. All of them are amber colored, ranging from yellow to off-white. Grain patterns are a bit more obvious, and all of them are relatively straight. Yellow pine tends to have a bolder, more pronounced grain pattern than white. Density is the deciding difference. Yellow pine has a density rating of about 870 on the Janka scale,, which ranks it up there with cedar at 900. White pine, with a density rating of only 380, is one of the lowest-rated woods on the scale.

SPF

Fir often is confused with pine in regard to construction-grade lumber. With the prevalence and availability of Douglas fir, the use of yellow pine -- which is harder than fir -- is declining. If you live on the West Coast, its likely you'll use fir for your framing needs. If you live on the East Coast where yellow pine is prolific, it's more likely to be available -- but it's becoming harder to find. If you have a preference, make it clear when ordering that you want yellow pine for your construction needs.

SPF is an acronym, which stands for spruce, pine and fir and it's a combination of those Canadian trees grown in various regions of the country. All produce high-grade timber with relatively small, sound tight knots and the color of ranges from white to pale yellow.

Lumber produced from these species is marketed together as SPF. The lumber you see could be any one of the three types of trees, and possibly contain one or more species within the type (for example, more species of spruce).
SPF Species

Eastern species

Black spruce (Picea mariana)
Red spruce (Picea rubens)
White spruce (Picea glauca)
Jack pine (Pinus banksiana)
Balsam fir (Abies balsamea)

Western species

White spruce (Picea glauca)
Engelmann spruce (Picea engelmanni)
Lodgepole pine (Pinus contorta)
Alpine fir (Abies lasiocarpa)

Western SPF lumber is usually available in larger sizes than eastern SPF given the climate and size of logs. Eastern SPF trees grow slowly and have superior strength.
papasombre likes this.

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 02-11-2019 at 04:57 PM.
Stick486 is online now  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Build an economy table top and install a mounting plate Mike Table-mounted Routing 93 01-15-2016 11:52 AM
First Benchtop Router Table, get a plate or go bare? silentblackhat Table-mounted Routing 38 05-30-2012 03:30 AM
Motorized Router Lift - Eagle Lake Style johnwnixon Table-mounted Routing 14 05-23-2012 05:51 PM
So you want to buy a router table... BobandRick Table-mounted Routing 39 08-30-2010 06:23 AM
RouterForums.com and Oak-Park.com - September 2006 Contest!! Mark Contests Archive 72 10-01-2006 01:02 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome