Routing the end of a stair tread - Router Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Default Routing the end of a stair tread

The wife and I are replacing stair treads, 12 to be exact. Five are open-ended. The house originally had carpet and a board was cut and routed to follow the contour of the carpet. Now we are putting oak treads down. The wife wants to extend the treads a bit past the sheetrock. Front is the usual bull nose. Cut, the end would be square. I have a half inch roundover bit that seems to fit. Need to remove the bearing for an exact fit. Since this will be end-grain, rout from front to back with a backer? I have a Kreg table. Suggestions? Would spring for a bit if needed- 1/4 shank.

John T.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 06:25 PM
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half round a length of long grain and install it as edge banding to the end.....

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 06:26 PM
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I'm absolutely with Stick on that!
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 06:31 PM
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freehand rout the end w/ the bearing riding on the face of the tread...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 07:17 PM
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If you feel adventurous, miter the exposed end corner and install the long grain end cap like this. Then return the back side to the wall, and trim out the exposed bottom with a small cove molding.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
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Herb, looks very professional. Thanks. I would have some leftovers as the tread would need to be trimmed to length and width. Leftovers could be used to trim the tread. Would take some time but I like it. Will run it by the CEO and see what she says. We both get a vote but her vote is bigger than mine.
Edit- Herb, looked at the photo again and need to know how to miter just a small part of the tread. Seems there would be a short miter and a long cut across the tread.

John T.
Life is like water-skiing; if you slow down, you go down.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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The wife and I looked at the photo. I see that there is carpet and the ends are routed/shaped pieces. I would need to figure out how to do it on a full length tread; oak, BTW. Thanks, again. Will play around with some scraps left over from the original treads. Never throw anything away! I use the scraps for backup on the drill press.

John T.
Life is like water-skiing; if you slow down, you go down.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 09:02 AM
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I basically did the same job you're looking to do a few years ago. When it was carpeted (before the remodel), the skirts were behind the tread leaving half the riser for the tread to mount to. I changed it around to put the skirts on top of the tread (there is a technique online how to trace this pattern once the treads are mounted - it worked well). I used the same approach Herb used - miter a 1.5"+/- wide endcap to the tread and make sure it extends two or 3 inches past the back of the tread. Make sure the tread (without endcap) is long enough to extend to/slightly past the outside of the skirt on the open side. If you didn't have a skirt there already, you will probably want to put one there.

RE: Treads - I used 5/4 red oak. If I would do it again I would probably use white oak. You may want to consider piecing your treads to mix up the grain to minimize future warpage. I used 4+/- inch width sections, full or partial length, and put them together with glue ... I'm sure splines would work but I used a glue line bit. The width was set to make sure I had not left a small piece at the end of the tread ... I got three rows using that width
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Treads are from Lowe's so warping wouldn't be a problem. Dry as dust. Will look at what trim is available or what I can make on the router and see what I can conjure up. FreeTime, thanks.

John T.
Life is like water-skiing; if you slow down, you go down.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 10:55 AM
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Herb's picture sure shows how elegant the stairs could look. Very finished look. I suspect you might have an easier time cutting that profile on a narrower, more manageable smaller piece and applying it as a edge banding. A good glue job and it will last forever.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
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