The most elusive router bit! - Router Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-11-2020, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Default The most elusive router bit!

Hello,

This is my first post on the forum, and my wife and I are new to routing. The first project is cabinet doors for the kitchen.

We found a door pattern that we really like, but are having a tough time finding the correct router bit for the rails.

Pattern is Sonora by CraftMaid


Closeup. One piece of wood.


Profile of rails (measured with digital calipers)


Tried the Freud, Whiteside and a few other websites, but couldn't find a 3/4" long straight, angled cut. Starting to wonder if this is a mix-and-match router bit stack.

Any experts out there that can help us solve this mystery?

Thanks in advance!

- Brad
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 12:06 AM
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Hi Brian and welcome. Are you sure that it is part of the main rails and not an added molding? I think that it could be cut with a small bevel profile raised panel bit, about the 2 1/2" diameter size. It could also be cut on edge on a table saw but would be a rougher finish. To cut that profile with a router would require a few bits I think. There looks like a small flat at the top of the bevel and there is also the small round over on the top edge. Cabinet shops usually use a shaper or moulder to cut profiles like that and often the profiles are custom made for them.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 01:34 AM
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Hello N/A and welcome to the forums...
We're happy you found us...

that appears to be a built up rail w/ an add on piece of molding...
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 07:07 AM
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We all seem to agree, no doubts, its an added moulding. it was attached after the doors were assembled. I also think the radius on the inside of the frame was added after assembly, the cutter does not do that small round, if it did then there would have to be a mason miter where the styles and rails join and that is far too much trouble too get a small internal round like that, so the door was made square via the groove and tenon method , then the radius was done and then the moulding was added last.

I like that small door, BTW a very neat colour. N

Last edited by neville9999; 07-12-2020 at 07:14 AM.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neville9999 View Post
We all seem to agree, no doubts, its an added moulding. it was attached after the doors were assembled. I also think the radius on the inside of the frame was added after assembly, the cutter does not do that small round, if it did then there would have to be a mason miter where the styles and rails join and that is far too much trouble too get a small internal round like that, so the door was made square via the groove and tenon method , then the radius was done and then the moulding was added last.

I like that small door, BTW a very neat colour. N
the inside connection of the rail and stile's RO appear to be jack mitered...

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 08:14 AM
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I remodeled a home in Houston that had been originally built in 1937. I stripped the kitchen down to studs and started over. These cabinets were the ones I put back in, and I can assure you that is not an added molding. Look carefully at the grain of the rails in the first photo and you can see that it carries all the way through those rails.

A large production cabinet maker like CraftMaid would make these on a shaper with custom cutters. I'm sure it was not done with a router, although you could likely have someone make you a custom bit...for a price.

Those doors are what convinced me to buy cabinets rather than make them, and I still think that was the most beautiful kitchen I have ever had. The wood is cherry and the finish is beautifully done. Have you considered just buying the doors from CraftMaid and installing them on your existing cabinets? Just an idea.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 09:52 AM
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First, welcome. Lucky to have your wife involved in the shop! My first thought was it's an added piece and that would still work if you matched the grain carefully and used the same wood species.

You will need a number of bits to carry this off. The panel groove can be cut easily on all four sides with a slot cutter. Then use the wide panel bit to cut just the horizontal pieces (rails) and trim the curved section to fit against the stiles (vertical) If you do this in one piece, you will cut the rails wider than the stiles to account for the trim section, which will be the width of the bit.

You will also be using roundover bits in 1/4 and 1/8th sizes to soften those hard edges.

So you are talking about at least 3 bits. It is very easy to get stuck on the idea of using a single bit, which probably doesn't exist. The good news is this isn't a particularly complex panel door to make.

Personally, I'd make it in two pieces, being extremely careful to fit the trim piece as precisely as possible into the door. I'd take plenty of time finding matching grain and color so they finish the same. You can use your router and bit to shape the trim piece separately. Cut the trim piece 1/8th inch wider that two times the bit's radius. If the bit cutter radius is 1.25 inches, rip the cut 2 5/8ths wide, then run it through twice, once on each edge, then rip it in half and you have both pieces.

Getting all rails and stiles the exact same thickness is really important or you have to do a lot of sanding later. Cut with the face down on a table, face up when cutting freehand. Forget about cutting the trim piece freehand.

Finally, the best technique I've ever seen is in videos by Marc Sommerfeld, which you can find free on YouTube. He sells routing gear, but he was a master cabinet maker and his technique is uncomplicated and very precise. I have several of his matched bit sets and bought all of his videos on dvds. I watch an appropriate video whenever I do a project because they are so helpful. When you don't do a lot of the same projects, you forget details and spoil expensive wood. YouTube, Marc Sommerfeld will be very helpful.

I make a lot of picture frames, which are devilishly precise on cuts. One thing I discovered is that sanding finer than 220 grit was counterproductive. For exquisite finish, I prefer to use scrapers, which are cheap but take a little care to sharpen and use properly.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.

Last edited by DesertRatTom; 07-12-2020 at 09:55 AM.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 10:15 AM
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look up panel raising with at table saw. You might be able to accomplish something similar on the rails. Make a piece a little over 2 times the width, and pass it over the table saw on edge with the blade tipped to the desired angle. You'll then have to put your panel grove in. Then cut it in half to final rail width

the pieces can be assembled square, and the radius added by hand later with a home-made 1/16 radius scraper. https://brfinewoodworking.com/making-a-scratch-stock/

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Last edited by kp91; 07-12-2020 at 10:25 AM.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 10:55 AM
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Welcome aboard Brian.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kp91 View Post
look up panel raising with at table saw. You might be able to accomplish something similar on the rails. Make a piece a little over 2 times the width, and pass it over the table saw on edge with the blade tipped to the desired angle. You'll then have to put your panel grove in. Then cut it in half to final rail width

the pieces can be assembled square, and the radius added by hand later with a home-made 1/16 radius scraper. https://brfinewoodworking.com/making-a-scratch-stock/
This is another approach that will work nicely, if you have a well tuned table saw. Getting a roundover on a tapered part will be a challenge and a scraper is one way to do it. All the other cuts can be done on a table saw with a good, flat top rip blade. The Freud Glue Line blade would handle this nicely.

The tolerances are pretty demanding if you decide to do this with a saw, and I'd want a set of setup bars for this to set blade hight with precision.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.

Last edited by DesertRatTom; 07-12-2020 at 11:30 AM.
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