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Carving bits

3K views 21 replies 8 participants last post by  Gaffboat 
#1 ·
Tried router carving today, for the 1st time. Used a compact router with a V-groove bit on a paper template; it carves alright, but I spent thrice as long on cleaning up the grooves with a creatively shaped sandblock. Is there a dedicated bit for carving, barring CNC ?


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#3 ·
Pictures would be a big help in trying to figure out what the problem might be.

It might also be the wood you used for the project. If it is softwood then you might get some tearing instead of cutting leaving a lot of cleanup. If it is in large open areas then the stepover could be the problem so you might need to use an end mill to clear the bottom of the cut.
 
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#4 ·
60º and 90º v-bits work well for sign making, I carved a lot of signs freehand before I got my CNC. As Mike says, it may the wood. The white mystery wood from the big box stores often has problems. Cedar fence boards carve easily and cleanly. Both of these signs were freehand carved from cedar using a v-bit in a Dewalt compact router. Perhaps you need a sharper bit?
 

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#5 ·
It’s not the tearout, more like an inability to produce a clear, flat bottom carving. Had to take multiple passes and then chisel and sand the edges and the groove itself to make it look somewhat satisfactory. It’s also not the bit, because that’s the 1st time I used it. Tried it on pine, will post pics later.


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#6 ·
Too high a moisture content in the wood could cause a poor finish. Wet wood tends to be a bit stringy.
 
#8 ·
Oliver I believe the white mystery wood from the big box stores is Aspen. I use it for some of my Dogwood Crosses to get the pure white color and it takes a lot more sanding than anything else I use.
 
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#10 ·
Looks like you had a little bit of tear out in a couple of places. Of course, we don't know what the bottom looked like before it was cleaned up but a flat tip v-bit will help a lot.
 
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#12 ·
The wood appears to be pine which should rout okay in most cases. Part of the problem may be that you aren't able to hold the router steady enough. I found that when routing signs hand held that anchoring one hand down on the material and swinging the router into the cut with the other worked best for me. Since I'm right handed, anchoring my left hand works better. Basically I just swivel my wrist on that hand. I don't get much range of movement but I'm able to maintain better control than trying to swing the router around with both hands.
 
#14 ·
#18 ·
@OutoftheWoodwork Has Barb checked in on this string yet? She does some very nice freehand signs and is pretty darn practical. I haven't made signs, but I think holding on to a router itself is not a good idea, so I'd want to use a plunge base at least. Barb also prints out a computer image of the sign and uses some kind of oil to transfer that to the wood.
 
#19 ·
#21 · (Edited)
Did I hear someone whisper my name? Looks like a few have taken care of the answer, but:

I originally started making my lettering flat, but went to the 60 and 90 degree "V" bit, and clean out the letters if necessary. Your picture looks like you wanted a bit of an angle, but wanted a flat bottom letter. When you want flat bit lettering, you can use flute bits. You can get them as small at 1/4 or 1/8" diameter. I can upload a picture of what I've used, if needed. You can use the "V" bit to get a nice angle then clean out the lettering with a flute bit to accomplish the flat bottom.

To be able to keep the router steady, you'll need good, sharp bits. It will be like a hot knife through butter. This is especially important if the grain is real close together, as a dull bit will make it harder to keep straight lines, which is what it looks like happened in your picture.

Also, I don't clamp my wood down. Looking at the second picture, you'll see what I use, which is kitchen drawer liner. I get the thicker kind, which when it gets full of sawdust, I've vacuumed it off, which recharges its' hold, or I've shaken off the big stuff, and did a quick dunk in soapy water, rinsed it, and hung it to dry, and it's like new again. My set up may be in one of my pictures of my shop.

Below are some of my earlier works: All free hand, with a full size router. I eventually went to a compact, because it's easier to lift. I've also used CNC bits to get the effect I'm looking for.

...And on that note, I'll crawl back in my hole. Hope everyone is well.
 

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#22 ·
A base plate like this one from MakeAWoodsign.com can make a big difference in helping you control the router for freehand sign carving. I also recommend spending time watching their sign making videos on YouTube. You'll learn a lot about carving signs in a short amount of time.
 

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