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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Default finger joint bit for edge to edge

Need some help

I am planning out a bed frame for a king size bed. I'm currently planning on using 5/4 white oak. The oak comes in random lengths and widths but for the most part they are approximately 8 foot by 6 inches. My side rails are 18 inches wide. I have an adjustable finger joint bit i got on Rockler. However, i've read that finger joints are mostly used for end to end not edge to edge. Is there a better joint to use for edge to edge? Perhaps use a doweling jig instead?

thanks

Andrew

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 09:54 PM
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Need some help

I am planning out a bed frame for a king size bed. I'm currently planning on using 5/4 white oak. The oak comes in random lengths and widths but for the most part they are approximately 8 foot by 6 inches. My side rails are 18 inches wide. I have an adjustable finger joint bit i got on Rockler. However, i've read that finger joints are mostly used for end to end not edge to edge. Is there a better joint to use for edge to edge? Perhaps use a doweling jig instead?

thanks

Andrew

"The funny thing about experience. She gives the tests first and the lessons come after."

Greetings Andrew and welcome to the router forum.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atmartin23 View Post
Need some help

I am planning out a bed frame for a king size bed. I'm currently planning on using 5/4 white oak. The oak comes in random lengths and widths but for the most part they are approximately 8 foot by 6 inches. My side rails are 18 inches wide. I have an adjustable finger joint bit i got on Rockler. However, i've read that finger joints are mostly used for end to end not edge to edge. Is there a better joint to use for edge to edge? Perhaps use a doweling jig instead?

thanks

Andrew

"The funny thing about experience. She gives the tests first and the lessons come after."
Hi Andrew, welcome to the forum.
Quite a project. Finger joint bit should work but might get a little dicey assembling all the little fingers along the length of a king size bedframe, especially with the amount of assembly time a lot of these new glues give you.. Don't know why the old reliable tongue and groove wouldn't work. With 5/4 stock may have to do some finagling to get it right. Maybe a little off the wall but a lock mitre can be used for edge joining also with little or no seam showing.
I'm sure there will be a lot of other suggestions chiming in so stay tuned.

John Schaben

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 11:51 PM
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Hi Andrew

I would suggest using the T & G joints, they cut 7/16" deep the norm,and they plane the stock at the same time it's best to joint one edge b/4 using the bit set..it's very strong and almost self lining so to speak unlike the dowels that I hate if you get one off just a little bit and it's hammer time.

I recommend the matching set, that's to say both bits are set to cut the same height ,without moving the router up or down when you switch the cutters/bits out...doing that way you will not need to get the hand planer out or the sander out to get it flat and true,,,

It's a small trick how to setup your router to do that,it's very small trick but it works every time.
I will stop at that this point but please just ask if you want to know the trick


http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pc-1-2-Shank-T...4.c0.m14.l1262


For wide stock, match set ..
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pc-1-2-SH-V-Jo...4.c0.m14.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.com/11pc-1-2-Shank-S...4.c0.m14.l1262

For wide stock
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ue_groove.html

=====

=======

=====




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Last edited by bobj3; 09-03-2009 at 12:20 AM.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 12:52 AM
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Hi Andrew

I would suggest using the T & G joints, they cut 7/16" deep the norm,and they plane the stock at the same time it's best to joint one edge b/4 using the bit set..it's very strong and almost self lining so to speak unlike the dowels that I hate if you get one off just a little bit and it's hammer time.

I recommend the matching set, that's to say both bits are set to cut the same height ,without moving the router up or down when you switch the cutters/bits out...doing that way you will not need to get the hand planer out or the sander out to get it flat and true,,,

It's a small trick how to setup your router to do that,it's very small trick but it works every time.
I will stop at that this point but please just ask if you want to know the trick


For wide stock, match set ..


11pc 1/2" Shank Slot, Tongue & Groove Router Bit Set - eBay (item 130328500605 end time Sep-08-09 18:51:27 PDT)

=====
Nice call on this set Bob. I have his 2 piece set and I knew that wouldn't fly on 5/4 stock. Got this set on my list.

John Schaben

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 12:56 AM
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Welcome to the RouterForums Drew.




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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 01:33 AM
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Hi John

Thanks

It's neat set, it's the only set that I know about that comes with a 3/8" cutter ( T & G SET )

I have two set because I forget I had one set already LOL can't have to many router bits and CRS will take over from time to time


======

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Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
Nice call on this set Bob. I have his 2 piece set and I knew that wouldn't fly on 5/4 stock. Got this set on my list.



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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 07:47 AM
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I just butt the edges together and clamp it. The glue is stronger than the wood, so edge to edge works well.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 01:59 PM
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A scarfe joint would be good and strong. This joint is used in on guitar necks. A jig can be set up to route the slope after bandsawing the waste.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 02:37 PM
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[QUOTE=atmartin23;132481]Need some help

However, i've read that finger joints are mostly used for end to end not edge to edge. Is there a better joint to use for edge to edge? Perhaps use a doweling jig instead?
QUOTE]

While the finger would look nice. It is a Waste of time in wood of the same species. And would be a real pain on your job! Doweling would work, but as stated above, one mistake and it's OS. The tongue and groove is a good choice. Problem is most sets aren't made for wood that thick. And if you buy the bit, will you ever need it again. What I do in these cases is use the old floating tongue. All you need is a rabbit bit or even your table saw. Cut your 3/8 or 1/2 groove in each plank. cut a spline to fit and glue it in the groove. Remember to not make it too tight, leave a 1/16 or so for the glue.
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