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Bit For Edge Jointing

9K views 26 replies 13 participants last post by  Jerry Bowen 
#1 ·
Looking for the best bit for edge jointing on the router table.. Figuring a up spiral 1/2 Whiteside would do the trick but not sure if a compression bit would be better?

Thanks for any advice!
 
#5 ·
#4 ·
Welcome to the forum Terry. The up spiral might do a bit better but pricey compared to straight bits with or without a shear angle. I would try a straight bit first with a large diameter, for example 1.5". I think the larger diameter will help with a better cut.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I almost hate to ask this question as it will sure make me look ignorant, but what's new. I have not ever thought of a straight bit that is 1.5" inches in diameter, is that correct.

Also, I had never thought of a glue edge that is any better that what my jointer cuts, I have never had a problem with an edge glue joint other than the pieces not staying perfectly butted up due to the glue being so slippery, but the strength, at east for my purpose has been satisfactory.

I'd iike to hear more about edge jointing, obviously I'm in the dark on the subject and will never figure it out if I don't even know that it can be a problem let along how to do it correctly. I hope that this post doesn't make me look to bad.

Jerry B.
 
#7 ·
Thanks...

Thanks for the help..

So if reading this correctly it seems more or less the opinion is that a large diameter straight bit probably does a good enough job not to warrant the price costs for the spiral cutter..

Sounds good to me to try for awhile .. I will post my results once I get running the bit and glue up some panels..

Thanks for the warm welcome :)
 
#8 ·
Over the years I've come across two very different theories on this. One says that you want a perfectly smooth edge on both pieces to be mated and the other says you don't want it real smooth to get a better/stronger glue joint. I went with the latter theory because it was quicker and easer. I run the pieces through the table saw with the fence just a HAIR off of being parallel to the blade. I make the edge banding a little wider than the piece it is being glued to which means the glue up doesn't have to be as precise. I then use my router to trim the edge band flush with the mating piece. I have edge bands that have been on for 20+ years with no problems and in cases where the pieces are of the same wood with the grain running in the same manner you can't see the joint.

Buck
 
#9 ·
I run the pieces through the table saw with the fence just a HAIR off of being parallel to the blade. I make the edge banding a little wider than the piece it is being glued to which means the glue up doesn't have to be as precise. I then use my router to trim the edge band flush with the mating piece.
Forgive me saying this, Buck, but if you've already run the material through the table saw then all it takes is a couple of passes with a sharp, finely set jointer plane (something lIke a Stanley #7) to get a really good jointed edge. That's a lot less work than any router table set-up in my experience. Sometimes the simple solutions work best

BTW you're right about wanting a smooth edge - roughened edges are impossible to correctly check for hollow joints and never seem to make a tight joint

Regards

Phil
 
#10 ·
I think it depends on what your goal is. Extra strength or invisible glue line. Either way will produce a solid glue joint. More surface area (rougher edges) will be stronger but smooth will still be plenty strong. The glue line of the smoother joint will be less noticeable.

By the way, I've heard an argument against rough that goes something like the rough edges have broken wood grain which doesn't contribute to strength. My gut feeling is either approach is good enough.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I think it depends on what your goal is. Extra strength or invisible glue line. Either way will produce a solid glue joint. More surface area (rougher edges) will be stronger but smooth will still be plenty strong
Perhaps, Phil, but I've rarely seen a plain joint when properly made and glued which has failed under normal service (note that I'm a carpenter and joiner so I've seen a lot of joints over the years). When you get failure it's often down to overstressing the joint, or a "dry" joint (insufficient glue). Modern glues are remarkably strong and extremely durable. I raelise that to a hobbyist this may seem counter-intuitive, but I really can't recall ever seeing a bench joiner using these cutters - at least not for small runs or one-offs - because they deliver no advantage whilst taking a lot longer to make than butt joints

Another issue I have with jointing on a router table is that it is very difficult to adjust the joint should it come off the saw slightly out of straight. With a hand plane or a machine jointer that's dead easy and the hand plane in particular gives the user the ability to "micro tune" joints in a way which cannot be done with a machine - it's also possible with a hand plane to plane a joint which is slightly hollow to counter the tendency of board ends to shrink more than centres plus hand planes DON'T give you snipe!

I have not ever thought of a straight bit that is 1.5" inches in diameter, is that correct.
Freud and some other go up to more about 40mm (1-1/2in) diameter on 1/2in shanks, Jerry. This is what my own supplier of choice offers, note the T1440M at 40mm (just over 1-1/2in). I sometimes use a Freud template trim (top bearing) bit which is 1-1/2in diameter (38mm) to do finish cut-outs for Belfast/butler sinks in hardwood worktops (counters) such as beech or sycamore. These are done by hand using a 2000 watt ("3-1/2HP") plunge router and a template guide - manhandling a 100kg (200lb) slab of beech onto a router table just isn't going to happen! The extra mass of the large diameter cutter makes it work a lot more smoothly and the scallops from the large diameter are much less noticeable than those from a small diameter cutter (just like on a spindle moulder/shaper, big is better than small) - but for safety's sake you need to rough trim to within about 3mm (1/8in) from the finish line, the spindle speed needs to be dropped to 12k rpm or so and the passes need to in 6mm to 8mm (1/4 to 5/16in) steps in order to keep the feed speed up to the point where you aren't burning the material (especially on sycamore/maple end grain)

Regards

Phil
 
#18 ·
I think an issue that gets overlooked in this discussion is that not all of us have tools that others take for granted. In my case, I own neither a thickness planer nor a jointer so I have to adapt my projects accordingly. That means I either rely on the cut made by my Freud Rip blade for a smooth edge or occasionally finish the edge with a router bit before gluing. All my wood comes from the big box stores so if I need thicker than 3/4" I have to glue it up unless we're talking about using 2 x 4 pine.
 
#21 ·
Jerry I have one from Lee Valley that 1.5" and one from Onsrud that is 1.625". When I built my workbench from laminated 2 x 4 and 2 x 6, try as I might, I couldn't keep the top perfectly flat so I stood a sheet of mdf up on either side and made a honking big sled to slide up and down the edges and used the 1.5" to level it.

I've never used my router table for jointing as I have an 8 x 72" but I suggested a large diameter bit because the larger the diameter the more the cutter forces are parallel with the grain in the board. I see by some other's experiences that they have achieved excellent results with a 1/2" bit so there may not be any advantage to going larger.

Oliver makes a good point in that our equipment tends to influence our replies. I'm at the other end of the spectrum from Oliver. I have access to rough cut D fir, spruce, pine, hemlock, red cedar, and western birch so a large planer and jointer make perfect sense for me.
 
#22 ·
I think Phil summed it up perfectly, being a retired carpenter myself, that he is spot on. Different conditions, different tools, but a jointer or hand plane can't be beat.

As far as butt joints go, they have been making strong butt joints since time began lots of table tops and chair seats , no splines,,biscuits,nothing but good fits ,glue ,and good clamping. And todays glues are phenomenal in their holding power. Just try sometime to break a glue joint, it will take wood with it or break alongside the joint. The most important thing is a tight fit and enough glue.

Herb
 
#26 ·
Ha Ha Jerry B.

I enjoy reading the discussion and learning... I just like to find out what general census is on things I do not know that well, then make an educated choice... With some many deals right now I am trying to knock out some of the important items I need. I bought my router table out of the sole need to glue up some panels...

Thanks for the welcome and all the help!
 
#27 ·
Jackson 74,
That's what the forum is all about and is so valuable to those of us that participate, we need to be able to share what we are doing and be able ask questions without fear of being seen in a negative light, it took me awhile to learn that but once learned, the forum became more valuable to me.

Jerry B.
 
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