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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Could someone please give me some advice or share their experience with me. I have made a couple of small boxes and I am using the table saw with a jig to cut the 45 degree miters prior to glue up; not perfect but it does work. Should I continue this method or would it be worth the investment to get a good quality 45 degree miter bit and use my router table? What do you think about the 45 degree locked miter bit and the Infinity jig? Seems like the jig is pretty high priced, do you think it is worth it?

Thanks for any thoughts, suggestions, comments.

Jim
PS I just splashed out on a new Rockler Table, Incra Mast-R II Lift, and PC 892 router.
PSS Brother can you spare a time for food!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 11:26 AM
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Jim...I've used the tools I have for boxes...

Chop saw for miters, straight bits and offset fence for cleaning joint ends, profile bits for edges (roundover, cove, bead, 45*, etc...), belt sander or block for smoothing...

Not knowing sizes of your boxes don't know if this works for you. I don't make enough boxes to warrant lock miter bits (three if you make different sizes). But if you want the miter bits, Amazon sells Yonico 3-bit lock miter sets very reasonable...

Other choices are dovetails or box/finger joints of appropriate size, rabbets or slots for bottoms, etc...

If table saw leaves a smooth enough edge for you maybe "it ain't broke, don't fix it till it is"...?

Best...Nick

Nick

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TIME - the thing that gets in the way of learning.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 02:48 PM
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Jim...I've used the tools I have for boxes...

Chop saw for miters, straight bits and offset fence for cleaning joint ends, profile bits for edges (roundover, cove, bead, 45*, etc...), belt sander or block for smoothing...

Not knowing sizes of your boxes don't know if this works for you. I don't make enough boxes to warrant lock miter bits (three if you make different sizes). But if you want the miter bits, Amazon sells Yonico 3-bit lock miter sets very reasonable...

Other choices are dovetails or box/finger joints of appropriate size, rabbets or slots for bottoms, etc...

If table saw leaves a smooth enough edge for you maybe "it ain't broke, don't fix it till it is"...?

Best...Nick
Jim,
I purchased the entire set of Infinity bits and set up jigs. I like the idea of the miter lock joint, but there is a learning curve.

However, the method that you are using will work fine in my opinion. By cutting rabbets in the bottom edges of your work pieces for the bottom of the box for the bottom to fit in, the bottom will help secure the integrity of the corners joints.

Have you attempted to add hinges for the lid and if so, how has that gone for you?

Do you have a means to advance the fence on your router table in precise amounts, if so you do not need the Infinity set up jig, if not, you probably will if you decide to go that route.

I should have only purchased the small bit as I doubt that I will ever need the large one. Let us know what you decide to do. I you do go with the bit, there are plenty of members on the forum that can coach you, they sure helped me but I probably need more help that the average person when it comes to things like this,

Jerry
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Jerry,

Yes, I have the original Incra jig so I should be able to advance the fence in precise, small increments. I am not actually making a box but a small case/cabinet to hold Keurig Cups.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 06:00 PM
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Jerry,

Yes, I have the original Incra jig so I should be able to advance the fence in precise, small increments. I am not actually making a box but a small case/cabinet to hold Keurig Cups.


Jim,
That's good, the Incra LS system that is. The reason that I asked is that with the 3/4"set up block used to make the set up for 3/4" stock you can then mathematically adjuse the fence and the height of bit for any thickness of material between 3/8" and the 3/4" setting.

For example, let's say that your stock is some odd thickness, .465" just to make up an example. The difference between .750" and .465" .285". If you divide .285 by two you get .143 rounded up. Oops, I didn't ask you if you have a router lift that lets you also move up in small increments, sorry about that. But to go on. If you were to lower the bit by .143" and move the fence forward the same amount you would be set up for the .465" thick stock.

If you woud lke more clarification on that concept, let me know.

The idea of course is with a setting for 3/4" stock had you had the Infinity set up gauge you would have had the hash mark on the gauge set at a height of 3/8".

Since all the gauge does is allow you set the set the height of the bit to a point that the cutter is where it sould both for height and the position of the fence, once you have a reference that is correct for one thickness of material, it's just a matter of mathamatics to move to any other position, that is of course if you have the tools to do that accurately.

The small bit is, as you know however, limited to work on material between 3/8" and 3/4".

Let me know what you think.

You will need to create a zero clearance fence added to your Incra fence, I have purchased some Jedssem feather boards to use wih my set up and if you would like, I can send photos of my set up if you would like, but this may be starteing to sound to much like a can of worms that you don't want to get into and I sure do understand that..

In my case, for me anyway, the move to the Infinity miter lock bit was a good one.

I had tried what you say you have done with the 45 deegee cuts, but because of the way I have to cut mortises for the hinges for the lid, I could not put the bottom on the box until the hinges would be installed and I had trouble keeping the joints together, but the miter lock joint is, in my opinion a much better way to go.

Now, it's time for true confessions. I have not completed a box to my satisfaction yet. I have spent time learning how to make jigs for cutting the mortises for the hinges which for me was a project in itself, but I finally found a way to do it, the learning about the miter lock bit that I described above and all have been, collectively and great learning experience for me. That's why your thead caught my attention as it did.

I'll be watching for your reply, I will add that one of our favorite members of this forum has watched my slow progress and it almost driven him over the edge, and for that I am truly sorry,

Jerry
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Jerry,

I believe my router lift will let me make small increment adjustments but I don't know for sure as I don't have my router lift! What is he talking about you are probably saying right now; he has a router lift but he doesn't have a router lift. Well, I will have an Incra Mast-R-Lift II this coming Tuesday I hope. You see, I ordered from Rockler but I have to wait until Tuesday to get it! However, thanks for the great information.
I know what you mean regarding a closed shop in the summer as I am in Phoenix and stay time in the garage in July is 10 to 15 minutes maximum and then I am dripping over everything!
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 07:02 PM
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Jerry,

I believe my router lift will let me make small increment adjustments but I don't know for sure as I don't have my router lift! What is he talking about you are probably saying right now; he has a router lift but he doesn't have a router lift. Well, I will have an Incra Mast-R-Lift II this coming Tuesday I hope. You see, I ordered from Rockler but I have to wait until Tuesday to get it! However, thanks for the great information.
I know what you mean regarding a closed shop in the summer as I am in Phoenix and stay time in the garage in July is 10 to 15 minutes maximum and then I am dripping over everything!


Jim,
As everybody knows that follow my threads and posts, the Incra Mast R life along with the Incra jig is what I have and what I described works for me. Also, in regard to the reason for doing what I have described, again, as everybody knows, I came to this method of doing the set up due to my inability to see the hash marks on the jig. You won't be disappointed with the jig assuming that you have normal vision, just don't forget to remove from the bit before turning the router on.

Jerry
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