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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Default Need a longer bit

Rockler's Jig it hinge mortising system requires a 3/16" straight 1/4" shank router bit. The bit it sells is 2" long. It is works for the hinge body but it is not long enough to cut the deep slot for a quadrant hinge. I called Rockler and was told that even though the jig has a position for routing the slot it would not result in one deep enough. The slot is to be finished with a drill press and small chisels.
What is needed is a bit at least 3" long. I have not been able to find one.
A second question is how much of the shank MUST be in the collet. If I insert only ½” in the collet a 2” long bit almost works.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 01:59 PM
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Take the collet out of the router and insert the bit a minimum of 90% into the collet and mark the shank. That would be the absolute minimum that I would insert. At 1/2 insertion you risk damaging the collet. You'll probably have to drill the remainder. I think I would use a brad point as opposed to a Forstner because the body of the brad point will help guide it straight in a hole that is already that deep.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnjory View Post
Rockler's Jig it hinge mortising system requires a 3/16" straight 1/4" shank router bit. The bit it sells is 2" long. It is works for the hinge body but it is not long enough to cut the deep slot for a quadrant hinge. I called Rockler and was told that even though the jig has a position for routing the slot it would not result in one deep enough. The slot is to be finished with a drill press and small chisels.
What is needed is a bit at least 3" long. I have not been able to find one.
A second question is how much of the shank MUST be in the collet. If I insert only ½” in the collet a 2” long bit almost works.
That is not all together true what Rockler is suggesting.

The bit is long enough if you mortise 1" into the top and 1" into the bottom. The quadrant hinge will not work properly if only mortised into the top. Here is a mock up pictorial.

Herb
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 02:58 PM
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Herb, that is excellent. Did you do that? Part of a class?

I've been thinking of using a QH on my next box project and looked at a number of videos and such on the web. All of them went into the lower part but splitting the difference makes a lot of sense.

As to insertion depth of a bit. Some of my bits (freuds but not all) come with a min insertion mark on the shaft. I learned that this should be ignored and at the very least have the shaft have contact with the full length of the collet. I always remove my collets to insert a bit and make sure that the top end of the shaft is at least flush with the top of the collet. Not only is that safer, it also minimizes runout. While you may not think that's important, if you are making a precise slot (think dove tails or box joints) even a small error is a problem. Even 0.01" makes for loose box joints, for example.
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Last edited by PhilBa; 01-07-2016 at 03:00 PM. Reason: clarification
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 04:35 PM
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[QUOTE=PhilBa;1002585]Herb, that is excellent. Did you do that? Part of a class?

I've been thinking of using a QH on my next box project and looked at a number of videos and such on the web. All of them went into the lower part but splitting the difference makes a lot of sense.

Phil I did this for a show and tell for our woodworkers group during my Humidor phase. I tried doing just the bottom and a 1/'2 into the top, and the hinge wouldn't open, that is when I figured I would like to see what is going on inside there.
This was before the Rockler Jig as a matter of fact, and the night I was showing the group ,(our meeting was at a Rockler Store) they hauled out their new jig they just got in.
I tried the drill press and chisel route and ruined a couple of ends . Then I set up stops on the router table on the fence and raised the bit 1/16" at a time on each pass till it maxed out ,then held it and shut off the router and lifted it off.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 05:48 PM
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If the mortise is 1/4" wide then a mortising attachment for a drill press or a dedicated mortiser would be a good way to do that.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 06:18 PM
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I've been wondering if the jigit was worth it. $50 + 8 for the QH adaptor. I think I could make a simple QH template in about an hour.

Measure twice, cut once and CROSS OUT THE WRONG MARKS.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnjory View Post
Rockler's Jig it hinge mortising system requires a 3/16" straight 1/4" shank router bit. The bit it sells is 2" long. It is works for the hinge body but it is not long enough to cut the deep slot for a quadrant hinge. I called Rockler and was told that even though the jig has a position for routing the slot it would not result in one deep enough. The slot is to be finished with a drill press and small chisels.
What is needed is a bit at least 3" long. I have not been able to find one.
A second question is how much of the shank MUST be in the collet. If I insert only ½” in the collet a 2” long bit almost works.
would this help???
Robot Check

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 06:23 PM
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Herb...
that is outstanding...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-07-2016, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
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would this help???
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I really don't think this would work in that the bit is 1/4"diam. and the hub would hit the side of the box not giving you any more depth.
When I did my first one I tried a router freehand with a template and blew through the box end. I tried a dremel too with a long 9/32 spiral bit and came out the side too. The ends of my box wre only 3/8" thick so I only had 1'16" each side. Since I went to 1/2" minimum thick sides. The thicker the better.

I also made a template and used a 1/4" bit to route the hinge faces with handheld and a brass bushing.

Herb
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