LED Bulb Question - Router Forums
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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It has been a while since I have asked a dumb question. :-) Anyway in my shop ( garage ) there are 3 light fixture in the ceiling. They are rated for 60W bulbs. Given that LED Bulbs use a lot less wattage than incandescent bulb, is there any reason I couldn't use the 100W LED equivalent bulb and get more light than before ? I think the 100W LED equivalent bulbs are no more than 20W is use.


Thanks.....Gary
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 08:01 PM
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Dunno, but my old man used metal garbage can lids, with the inside painted gloss white, for reflectors. Amazing the amount of light those thing put out.
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by gjackson52 View Post
It has been a while since I have asked a dumb question. :-) Anyway in my shop ( garage ) there are 3 light fixture in the ceiling. They are rated for 60W bulbs. Given that LED Bulbs use a lot less wattage than incandescent bulb, is there any reason I couldn't use the 100W LED equivalent bulb and get more light than before ? I think the 100W LED equivalent bulbs are no more than 20W is use.


Thanks.....Gary
Gary; the rating label in a light fixture is based on the heat output of an incandescent lamp, and what the components and wiring can withstand. LEDs put out almost no heat so any size would be acceptable as long as it physically fits in the fixture. The major issue would be the cost of the lamps; they're still bloody expensive!
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 08:29 PM
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What Dan said is probably true but the drivers for the LEDs produce some heat. LEDs have to have drivers because they still haven`t been able to effectively run them at higher than 12 volts last I heard. You`ll at least be safe running them watt for watt input and finding one that draws 60 watts that screws into a lamp base is something I haven`t seen yet.

When I was in Alabama recently one of the people I know there was replacing all his T8 florescents with LED tubes. I think the driver was in the tube but not sure. Still used the same tombstone sockets but wired more like incandescent. I`m still switching out my T12s for T8s so I gladly accepted his redundant ballasts. The light from the LED tubes was better than the florescent tubes by a small margin in my opinion.

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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 08:57 PM
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I agree with what Charles says. His changing to T8's will give him more light. The T10's are very old technology. When going to T8's one should look for bulbs that are 6500 kelvin for the best results.

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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 10:44 PM
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If you already have t8 or t12 florescent fixtures just buy led replacements t8 bulbs fit in either style rewire basically 110 volt in parallel to 2 tombstones minus the ballast lots of videos on the web. So 2 duel 40 watt fixtures for $42. They are bright from earth led
10.49 a bulb tax and shipping included.
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 12:04 AM
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Not long ago, I took the fluorescent lights out of my garage and tapped that circuit to install 5 medium screw in fixtures, each of which has at least a 100 watt equivalent LED bulb installed. The total draw is almost the same as the two fluorescent bulbs, but the light is easily 4 times as bright, and because there are 5 bulbs, the lighting is even with no dark spots.

I recently bought a couple of 2500 lumen LED lights with 10 inch wide reflectors and screwed them into sockets above my table saw and my workbench. The light level is unbelievable and the power used is far less than the two relatively dim incandescent lights that were there before. I have added a number of under counter strip lamps to shine into dark areas, and above my sliding miter, and and router table. I love having very high light levels, and lights that light up all areas in the space. Here is a link to the Rockler shop lights, shown below. LED Shop Light with Reflector Shroud | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

A bonus is that the total draw lets me run two items on each 20 amp circuit in the shop. Heater and all lights, AC and all lights without blowing circuits. The price of LEDs have really come down, thank goodness. By the time I need to replace them, they will be downright cheap, if I should happen to live that long.

There are some new LEDs that are really high lumen output these days and I encourage anyone with old eyes to make the switch and enjoy coming into the light.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 05:42 AM
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I just picked up some $28 LED shop light fixtures from Costco. Can be flush mounted or hang by chains. Super bright, cheap, and easy to install.

Screw a bulb to socket adapter in the existing fixture and there will be no wiring to do

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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 09:36 AM
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Gary, as long as you don't exceed the wattage usage rating of the circuit or fixture, in this case you identified it at 60W you are fine. The Output wattage has no effect on the circuit or fixture. So you can install an LED that consumes or uses 60W.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 09:48 AM
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I love LED's. The only issues I have had, and I have installed over 50 now, is when replacing bulbs in enclosed fixtures and lights that are dimmed or controlled by a photocell. Some of the LED's make more heat than you may think and in a tightly enclosed fixture I have had a couple of older units that flickered. They clearly stated on their box "not for use in enclosed fixtures" but I had to try it. Darned instructions anyway!
Most LED's are clearly marked "Dimmable" or "Non-dimmable". Some of the non-dimmable units obviously can't be dimmed (yes, I tried that too) but they also may flicker when controlled by some types of photo-cells. I use LED's for outdoor lighting so I have to watch that.
Neither of these problems should be an issue in a garage and I agree with everyone, LED's are the ONLY way to go now the prices have come out of the stratosphere.
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