Table saw kickback - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 07:16 PM
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I see you joined 4 years ago, 9 more posts and you can post URLs
it is there to keep spam down!
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 08:12 PM
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Sorry for the upside down pics. I went for the total package. I really like the flat plate for an additional push towards the fence if needed. The videos on their site are helpful.
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Last edited by Semipro; 11-07-2018 at 08:40 PM. Reason: flip pictures
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 08:25 PM
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Watch you fingers ( I had to pay stupid tax at ER). I use masking tape and gorilla Gel super glue. Run a piece of 3/4 scrap plywood. Make it wide enough to keep you hands clear. I made a handle for mine and mounted it a slight angle in this will keep piece tight to fence for the length of cut. Now the secret is to stand plywood on edge run a piece of 3/4 making tape, Then on the piece wish to orient it and place masking tape to the edge opposite of your desired cut end. Place SG along one side of sled or work , whichever is shorter. place sled against fence and the press the two pieces of masking tape together and set desired size of wood on the left side of blade, push thru There will not be any stupid tax to pay. Separate sled and wood by breaking the tape will let go from wood so nothing is glued together is the masking tape. I was ripping 1/16 and 1/8 strips and used this tool. ordered it at amazon works fantastic. The piece will be uniform You cannot make it for less POWERTEC 71059 Thin Rip Table Saw Jig. I have grr-rip but the toll is much better
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 08:26 PM
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 10:54 PM
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I've got a Grrrrrripper (however you spell it), and like it. Won it, didn't buy it. I'm 77, started out helping my grandfather when I was probably 7 or 8. Started using power tools in 9th grade, table saw in 10th grade. No riving knife or kick back thingies on my saw. Never had a kickback yet, and don't plan on having one. BUT, just in case, I always stand out of line with the blade. Learned that one in the 10th grade, when our shop teacher demonstrated kickback, and described what caused it. And I still remember that piece of wood hitting the wall. Unless I am holding a piece of wood well away from the blade, I use push blocks, not so often push sticks. I set my blade so it just cuts the top of the wood, then use a push block, with a handle, thick enough that I can pass right over the blade and it will just make a very small cut on the bottom of the push block, and impossible to cut me. It helps to be a bit scared of the saw, or anytool with whirly parts that can bite you; it make you careful.

You see pictures and videos of people standing in line with the blade of a saw, a lot of time supposedly skilled woodworkers. Which just about guarantees that if there is kickback, they are going to get hit. Standing out of line with the blade is one of the best safety measures you can take with a table saw.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 01:41 PM
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Another approach i’ve Found when ripping thin pieces is to use a magnetic clamp to hold the shop vac hose just to the left of the piece being cut off The vacuum will pull the thin piece over and hold it in place. I’ve never tried for pieces wider than 1/2” however. Believe the approach was originally posted on this forum but not sure by who.
obviously not a cure for kickback but helpful with the upside of pulling off some sawdust as well.

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