Table saw kickback - Page 2 - Router Forums
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 07:16 PM
Moderation Team
Semipro's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2013
Country: United States
First Name: John_*
Posts: 6,723

I see you joined 4 years ago, 9 more posts and you can post URLs
it is there to keep spam down!
Semipro is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 08:12 PM
Registered User
gomolajoe's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2011
Country: United States
First Name: Joe
Posts: 31

Sorry for the upside down pics. I went for the total package. I really like the flat plate for an additional push towards the fence if needed. The videos on their site are helpful.
Attached Images
thomas1389 and Nickp like this.

Last edited by Semipro; 11-07-2018 at 08:40 PM. Reason: flip pictures
gomolajoe is offline  
post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 08:25 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2014
Country: United States
First Name: Steve
Posts: 30

Watch you fingers ( I had to pay stupid tax at ER). I use masking tape and gorilla Gel super glue. Run a piece of 3/4 scrap plywood. Make it wide enough to keep you hands clear. I made a handle for mine and mounted it a slight angle in this will keep piece tight to fence for the length of cut. Now the secret is to stand plywood on edge run a piece of 3/4 making tape, Then on the piece wish to orient it and place masking tape to the edge opposite of your desired cut end. Place SG along one side of sled or work , whichever is shorter. place sled against fence and the press the two pieces of masking tape together and set desired size of wood on the left side of blade, push thru There will not be any stupid tax to pay. Separate sled and wood by breaking the tape will let go from wood so nothing is glued together is the masking tape. I was ripping 1/16 and 1/8 strips and used this tool. ordered it at amazon works fantastic. The piece will be uniform You cannot make it for less POWERTEC 71059 Thin Rip Table Saw Jig. I have grr-rip but the toll is much better
Steve Pack is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 08:26 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2014
Country: United States
First Name: Steve
Posts: 30

Steve Pack is offline  
post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 10:54 PM
Registered User
JOAT's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Theo
Posts: 6,675

I've got a Grrrrrripper (however you spell it), and like it. Won it, didn't buy it. I'm 77, started out helping my grandfather when I was probably 7 or 8. Started using power tools in 9th grade, table saw in 10th grade. No riving knife or kick back thingies on my saw. Never had a kickback yet, and don't plan on having one. BUT, just in case, I always stand out of line with the blade. Learned that one in the 10th grade, when our shop teacher demonstrated kickback, and described what caused it. And I still remember that piece of wood hitting the wall. Unless I am holding a piece of wood well away from the blade, I use push blocks, not so often push sticks. I set my blade so it just cuts the top of the wood, then use a push block, with a handle, thick enough that I can pass right over the blade and it will just make a very small cut on the bottom of the push block, and impossible to cut me. It helps to be a bit scared of the saw, or anytool with whirly parts that can bite you; it make you careful.

You see pictures and videos of people standing in line with the blade of a saw, a lot of time supposedly skilled woodworkers. Which just about guarantees that if there is kickback, they are going to get hit. Standing out of line with the blade is one of the best safety measures you can take with a table saw.
Marco, JFPNCM, DaninVan and 2 others like this.

"It ain't what you're told, it's what you know." - Granny Weatherwax
Fawkahwe tribal police SWAT Team
Some days, the supply of available curse words is insufficient to meet my demands.
.....Call me a craftsman, artisan, or artistic, and I will accept that. Call me an artist and you will likely get a quite rude comment in return. I am not a @#$%ing artist.
JOAT is offline  
post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 01:41 PM
Registered User
JFPNCM's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Jon
Posts: 4,218

Another approach i’ve Found when ripping thin pieces is to use a magnetic clamp to hold the shop vac hose just to the left of the piece being cut off The vacuum will pull the thin piece over and hold it in place. I’ve never tried for pieces wider than 1/2” however. Believe the approach was originally posted on this forum but not sure by who.
obviously not a cure for kickback but helpful with the upside of pulling off some sawdust as well.

JFPNCM is offline  
post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-01-2020, 08:43 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Mark
Posts: 58

I learned how to rip thin pieces of stock the hard way and got my finger. I was very lucky to come away with just a nasty cut to the index finger that left a nice scar. Since then, if I need a piece of stock less than a push stick, I cut it from a much larger piece. For example, if my piece needs to be 2" x 1/4", I will cut a piece 5" (by 8' or whatever I need to get the lineal feet needed) and then start my 1/4" rip. Taking it nice and slow, the blade is never exposed except at the end. I can even flip the board to the opposite side when done and run another 1/4" run. Then, after the 1/4 rips are in the 5" board, I will lay the board down and rip the 2" needed and no finger(s) are subjected to blade danger. Yet, with this method, it is very obvious that I do not have my blade (top) guard on.
rmark is offline  
post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-02-2020, 11:34 AM
Registered User
CharleyL's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Charley
Posts: 2,154

The Grrippers are nice, and I now own three, one of them has the narrow side removed and it is dedicated for use on the router table. The other two are mostly for use on the table saw, the two provide the ability to hand over hand feed long boards when ripping. The orange push stick in Harry's photo #5, or any of it's similar designs are very dangerous to use as the primary pushing device on a table saw, because they fail to hold the work down as it's being pushed through the cut, and the rear of the blade can lift the piece easily and throw it at you. They are OK for other purposes, and can be used as a second tool to hold the work against the fence, but your primary "push stick" needs to be of a design that both holds the work piece down and against the fence, as well as push it forward through the cut and beyond the blade. During any of these cuts your hands and fingers should never get less than 6" from the blade or cutter, unless it's fully protected by the pusher device, like when holding the handle of a Grripper.

I use my Grrippers a lot, but still use my shop made pushers for certain operations on my table saw, but every one of them holds the work down as well as pushes it forward, and my hand is always on the handle of it to keep it 6" or more away from the spinney sharp thing. Whenever I'm about to use one of my woodworking tools I mentally go through the process that I'm planning. If any part of the process will put my fingers or any other part of my body closer than 6" to that sharp spinney thing, I'll find another way to do it.

I've been woodworking or helping my dad and uncles do woodworking since I was about 8. I'm almost 78 now, and still have all ten with no scars from those sharp spinney things. Scars from other things yes, but not from woodworking tools.

JFPNCM and DesertRatTom like this.

Central North Carolina
CharleyL is online now  
post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-02-2020, 01:04 PM
Forum Contributor
DesertRatTom's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Tom
Posts: 18,590

Like Charley, I preplan almost every cut, working out how to do it best/safely. For thin strips, which I cut often, I have a Rockler thin strip jig, that lets me cut same size strips on the outside edge of the blade and so the fence is moved and the outside piece isn't trapped against the blade. A piece trapped against the fence is more likely to kick back because it's easy to catch it on the blade as you push the last bit through. That's where the Grripper's 1/8th foot comes into play. The alternative as the piece gets thinner and thinner is a long, skinny push block. The pictures are of a variety of push sticks and simple shop made push blocks, any of which will increase safety.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	push stick 1.jpg
Views:	11
Size:	28.6 KB
ID:	380435  

Click image for larger version

Name:	push stick block.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	80.8 KB
ID:	380437  

Click image for larger version

Name:	push sticks.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	56.1 KB
ID:	380439  

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
DesertRatTom is offline  
post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-02-2020, 01:16 PM
Registered User
Pro4824's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2015
Country: United States
First Name: Joe
Posts: 385

I use the bandsaw for thin strips. Much safer.
Stick486 likes this.
Pro4824 is offline  

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Design for folding cutting table DesertRatTom Tools and Woodworking 18 06-01-2018 07:47 PM
New fence (Part 2) Out Feed Table Coleve Show N' Tell 23 11-16-2017 12:09 PM
Resurrected bird table Coleve Show N' Tell 16 12-07-2013 06:05 AM
Dust Collection on Table Saw Router Table Extension Guitarman1 Table-mounted Routing 0 10-02-2011 02:32 PM
kickback on router table delia1tj Table-mounted Routing 12 08-03-2010 01:17 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome