Table saw kickback - Router Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Default Table saw kickback

I was sawing thin strips on the table saw for end grain cutting boards, the strips were 3' long x 3/4 & 1/2" wide. I was using a 3/8" wide push stick about a foot long. I had the two 3/4" strips done and one of the 1/2" strips done, on the second 1/2" strip i moved the stock piece through and clear but inadvertently touched the blade with the push stick, got a violent kickback and sore palm. Here's my question. What model of that grrripper tool do I need? There are a few different models and several accessories available and is pretty confusing to me. Thanks

"It's just a hardened oz or two of metal, sharpened to a razor edge, spinning at 24,000 rpm.....what could go wrong?"
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 08:41 AM
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https://www.microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/
or make your own...

.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 09:54 AM
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I have the micro jig gripper, and yes, its expensive. But its incredibly well made and thought out. You can adjust it to fit almost any situation on a bandsaw, router table, or even table saw.
I have no regrets spending that money for something so versatile right out of the box.

I should add that I'm not known for throwing money around.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I appreciate your input.

"It's just a hardened oz or two of metal, sharpened to a razor edge, spinning at 24,000 rpm.....what could go wrong?"
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 11:59 AM
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I have a couple of them for pushing long pieces through. All models have the basic structure, they just add on a couple of accessories, in particular, the wide foot. I never use it, really awkward. You can get a 1/8th foot which is really handy for narrow cuts. I always try to keep the widest part of the wood against the fence to reduce the chance of kickback. Early on with my old table saw, I tried to cut a warped piece of ply and it kicked back, hitting me in the center of my chest. It was bruised and sore for months. They come at you at about 100 mph. Won't ever try that again. Just get the Gripper, I don't think I've ever seen a bad review on this or any other site.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 05:27 PM
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Only got kickback once. I let up on the push stick and the blade caught a small piece of wood. Have two faint scars on my wrist. I was around heavy manufacturing for years. I learned about 55 years ago not to stand in the way of IFP- identified flying pieces. I now remember to stand off to the side when using the TS.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 06:35 AM
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I have found my Gripper one of the best safety tools in the shop. I use it every day I'm in the shop and have several versions. What I was lacking was the 1/8" plate to add which I had originally thought would never be needed but was very wrong. Any table saw operation requires thought and consideration but making really thin cuts takes the proper tool and the Gripper or similar should be adjusted and used accordingly. The trip to the emergency room will likely cost you more than a new tool and I'd rather have the new tool rather than a regret.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adot45 View Post
I was sawing thin strips on the table saw for end grain cutting boards, the strips were 3' long x 3/4 & 1/2" wide. I was using a 3/8" wide push stick about a foot long. I had the two 3/4" strips done and one of the 1/2" strips done, on the second 1/2" strip i moved the stock piece through and clear but inadvertently touched the blade with the push stick, got a violent kickback and sore palm. Here's my question. What model of that grrripper tool do I need? There are a few different models and several accessories available and is pretty confusing to me. Thanks
These shots shows my GR-200 GRR-Ripper which I wouldn't like to live without.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 12:55 PM
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Harry’s second photo shows an additional key point about the GRIPPER, how easy it is to independently adjust the height of each leg to accommodate the thickness of the wood.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 06:47 PM
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I don't disagree with what folks are saying about the GRR-Ripper; I have one and it works well. But even though there's an attachment enabling one to go thinner than 1/4", I think it's far safer to move the offcut to the left side of the blade for thinner strips. That is especially true if you have anti-kickback pawls instead of a riving knife. There are several techniques for this, the most common being a stop on the left of the blade.

There is a nice breakdown of the options on the wood whisperer site. I would post the URL but alas, "You are only allowed to post URLs once you have at least 10 posts."

A shop-made left-side miter slot stop is easy to make. They can be slightly finicky if your fence moves (even slightly) when you lock it down but you'll figure this out quickly.
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