Use of Push Blocks & Push Sticks - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Default Use of Push Blocks & Push Sticks

While I am new to table routing, I have a fair amount of experience with table sawing. I've used a push stick with a table saw. I've also used a square piece of plywood literally to push a larger board.

That leads me to wonder how many of you use - or recommend - use of push blocks (I've never used the friction pad style blocks) or push sticks when using a table router. Should they be used all the time? Or for just certain cases?

Thanks, Ken
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 02:04 PM
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Hi Ken

Every the time you can, if the bit comes free it's coming out on the top side on the board, it's best to use the hook type push block so you hold the stock down and push it forward at the same time and you will not get rip out on the end of the board the norm, the pad type are OK but at some point in the pass you must lift it off and reset it and it's free to take off like a rocket..

The right push blocks are a big deal on the router table..

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Originally Posted by KennK View Post
While I am new to table routing, I have a fair amount of experience with table sawing. I've used a push stick with a table saw. I've also used a square piece of plywood literally to push a larger board.

That leads me to wonder how many of you use - or recommend - use of push blocks (I've never used the friction pad style blocks) or push sticks when using a table router. Should they be used all the time? Or for just certain cases?

Thanks, Ken



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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 03:55 PM
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Anytime you are working with small or narrow parts they are a good idea. When I'm using the other hand to keep pressure towards the fence I put a thumb against the piece on one side of the bit and a finger on the other side and let the piece slide past them. I never push directly across from the bit. Featherboards are good too but if you are careful you can get away without them most of the time.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 07:49 AM
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Hello!

+1 with bob!

IMHO:
Never put your fingers where they can get catch !

Pushing right to left in front of the bit with left hand at left of bit can put
your left hand into the bit if a quickback occurs...

Too dangerous!, I use push hooks for small pieces, and feather boards as much as possible.
I use feather boards in both horizontal and vertical direction when possible.

On table saw I use two push sticks(1'),one for pushing, one for keepin' straight on the guide.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 09:54 AM
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Amen to that; had my close call and not interested in a repeat performance...
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 10:40 AM
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Can't have to many push blocks not all below just some of them.

Here's neat jig for small parts
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/downloa...parts-sled.pdf


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Last edited by bobj3; 03-11-2012 at 10:43 AM.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 11:42 AM
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Always use push blocks, push sticks, and feather boards when ever possible.

The small parts jig Bob posted the link to is just one of many that can be used when the part is definitely too small to be routed while being held in your fingers. Don't ever use the it's just one cut reason for not using a jig like this! Just one cut may just leave you with just one finger!

Bottom line, keep you fingers as far from the blade as possible!

Work safe, Have fun, Cut some wood,
Mike

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the awesome advice!!

I just ordered a "Tool Designs 10230 Power Hands Push Stick" from Amazon. I like that it comes with two grippy bottom pads - one flat and one v-shaped. I hope the grip opening is big enough for my hand.

My new Bosch RA1181 router table came with two featherboards (figuring one vertical and one horizontal). I decided that I'd be better off with two on the fence (vertical) before & after the bit, and one on the table (horizontal), so I ordered parts for a third one.

Thanks again,

Ken
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 05:00 PM
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push blocks are especially required when you say "It's just one cut"

Learning is an exciting adventure
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-28-2012, 04:47 AM
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Well I don't have as many as Bobj3, but I have a few. I do the same thing and use the old ones for handles screwed down to a block of wood. The very best ones I have are the Rockler (Bench Dog) and the Gripper. The cheap ones are just good for handles on blocks of wood.
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