How do you keep your shop warm during winter - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-09-2015, 06:23 PM
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Bitter cold here, hit -40 with windchill one night this week ,having what is called frost quakes
I have a220 construction heater for my 14 x 20 shop,took a long time to heat it up this week,looking at alternatives for next winter
WOW! I am not envious.

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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-09-2015, 06:40 PM
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My shop was a single car garage that was closed in and made into a room not long after the house was built some 40 years ago. It has central heat and window ac..... probably its best feature.

Galatians 5:13
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-09-2015, 07:49 PM
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No biggie to insulate the door yourself, and considerably less expensive. Doesn't take long, so you could do it now, and get to work during the cold. There's various types of insulation that will work just fine,
premium idea....
extruded polystyrene (pink or blue XPS) seems to work about the best and more/thicker/higher R value can put in an existing door then the Styrofoam that is in a factory made insulated OHD..
A big plus is to install a thin by wide Adhesive Pickup Truck Cap/Shell Weatherstrip Tape between the sections...
the big boxes carry it...
clean w/ DNA before you install the tape..

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-09-2015, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by al m View Post
Bitter cold here, hit -40 with windchill one night this week ,having what is called frost quakes
I have a220 construction heater for my 14 x 20 shop,took a long time to heat it up this week,looking at alternatives for next winter
you my neighbor????
we've been seeing that in temps....

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-09-2015, 11:00 PM
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you my neighbor????
we've been seeing that in temps....
Believe it's several thousand miles between us Stick,or I maight stop by for a chat
-40 is minus-40 f or c,cold is cold,and it's dam cold!
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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-09-2015, 11:34 PM
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Believe it's several thousand miles between us Stick,or I maight stop by for a chat
-40 is minus-40 f or c,cold is cold,and it's dam cold!
cold isn't cold till the conifers start frost cracking/splitting...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 04:04 AM
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No problem here! Living in the subtropics I just open the door & let the sun in! We only get 4-5 days a year where the minimum drops to single figures. (That's Celsius here, or below 50F) I can't remember a maximum that was below single figures. After seeing TV news reports, I feel sorry for you guys who have to live with heavy snowfalls.
+1

Aaahhh the joy....

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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 06:49 AM
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I do not envy you folks with garage shops. We, luckily, have a home with a big basement that is partitioned off with several rooms, one of which has a garage door and my fun car's shop. Adjacent and in the next room is my wood shop. The room with that garage door - the opening needs to be closed off late every fall as the room gets to meat locker temp if I don't. The panels are a simple 2x4 framing and a painted-to-match-the-house luan ply exterior. These panels are insulated with 1-1/2" styrofoam insulation (I just bought another 1-1/2" layer to add one of these days. I also use foam tape around the edges to seal the small gaps that the builder and time have given me on this 1970 vintage house. When the panels are in, down come the door - and it gets as warm as I want it (usually 64*F) as the basement as well as the rest of the house has 4 zones of thermostatically controlled hot water heat.

As far as just insulating a garage shop door - that will help, but that skinny rubber wipe on the edges and the bottom seal (chipmunk food on my garage door frames) are really a big 0-R value air gap in the cold air off an iceberg windy winter and unless there is something more substantial around those edges.
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 07:50 AM
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I asked a local heating and air conditioning company what they did
With apartment forced air heaters when replacing them with more
efficient ones and was told they trash them. I asked if I could have one
And a couple days later I had a free heater. True it isn't an efficient
Heater but then my shop isn't huge. It does the job just fine and I
live at 8,000 feet in Colorado.

Buck
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 08:30 AM
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Scott, I worked in equipment rentals in Michigan where it gets cold. We rented construction heaters for non insulated areas . The formula used is cubic feet x degree rise above ambient temp x .132 = BTU required. Lets say you have a 24' x 26' garage with drywall ceiling at 8' height...and the temp outside is 20 degrees, and you want to raise the temp inside to 60 degrees. 24 x 26 x 8 = 4992 cf x 40 degree rise = 199680 x .132 = 26,357.76 BTU per hour required for a poorly to moderately insulated garage. You would have to take into account that it takes additional time to heat objects in that are in that area. This formula will bring the desired result in about 1 hours time.
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