How do you keep your shop warm during winter - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 10:24 AM
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Here in Minnesota the temp gets to well below 0-f and here in Southern Mn. We get a lot of wind (hence all the wind farms). My home shop is 24x 36feet.it started out as storage for my old cars so it was only framed with 2x4s. When I made it into a wood shop I put in 3.5 inches of fiberglass and covered over that with one inch of poly-ISO which I believe is r-6.
This is covered on both sides with aluminum foil and all the joints were taped with foil tape.
I ran the insulation up the bottom side of the rafters instead of the bottom of the bottom chord.this is a little more to heat but gives a area to run wiring,dust collection etc.
Also I put 2 ceiling fans up there to move the air.
I installed a 80,000 btu home furnace that is only 80 percent efficient (a freebie we removed from a job) I keep the temp at about 45 degrees when I'm not in there and at about 55-60 when I work- warm enough for me. When I finish I turn it up to 72 - 75 for as long as needed. I usually burn about 150 gallons of propane per winter.
In the summer it is shaded so I don't AC but I run a dehumidifier.
Our main shop is insulated the same but we have in floor heat run by a electric boiler. This costs more but the shop is larger and we keep the temp at about 60 degrees.
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 11:47 AM
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Heating with propane can be problematic. Besides heat a lot of water vapor is released into the air. This will condensate on the metal tools. Allowing fresh air from outside will eliminate the problem. When I use my propane heater in my one car garage, I don't close the door all the way. A three inch gap allows enough air to counter act the condensation. Your mileage will vary.

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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 01:14 PM
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Living in the Piney Woods of East Texas we just use a wood stove from HF. Works fine, just remember to use a flue cleaner twice a winter.
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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 02:27 PM
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No additional heat in my shop which shares a common wall with the house...ie Living rm. on the other side and crawl space below that (split level).
30"'x 30" access hatch which I leave open brings in warmish air from the crawl space, plus the thermal byproduct of the T12 ballasts...I just leave the lights on when it gets below freezing. There are at least a dozen 4' 2 lamp fixtures out there, plus the shop is really, really well insulated.
Those insulated garage doors are worth every penny.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 05:18 PM
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Ralph
I vent the furnace to the outside so moisture isn't a problem. That's why the furnace is only 80 percent efficient. Opening a door at -10 - f wouldn't be a good idea! I agree tho, that unvented heat would be a real problem. Using fresh air from the outside would help the efficiency but this old furnace wouldn't be easy to set up that way.
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-10-2015, 06:25 PM
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If I want spot heat, as opposed to trying to heat the whole garage, I set up my halogen flood lights. Great light and they put out a lot of heat.
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-12-2015, 11:30 AM
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I use a kero heater when I am working. If the temp is above freezing the heater will warm the garage enough to work in.

-Mike
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 03:07 AM
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as an alternative, you can buy a used air conditioner and install it in the garage. It will help to heat the air temperature somehow.
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-09-2018, 11:57 AM
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COOL AND HEAT A WORKSHOP (MINI SPLIT)

Compact and quiet, mini- splits are very safe for installation in woodshops, as they produce no flame, nor do they have hot elements, and the indoor unit’s coils never get hot enough to ignite dust and other flammables.

These cooling units work just like home central-air units: an outdoor compressor coupled with an indoor cooling coil, but in miniature. The lightweight, outdoor compressor takes up little room, the interior cooling unit can be hung anywhere (no ducting necessary), and the connecting refrigerant and electrical lines require only a 3" hole through the wall.

For an added cost, many mini-split units offer a heat pump upgrade, adding the capability of drawing heat from the outdoor air and depositing it inside.

They’re simpler and less expensive to install than heating systems that require ductwork. They’re also more efficient and cheaper to run than typical electric heaters, thanks to inverter technology that allows their compressors to operate at variable speeds, delivering only as much heating/cooling as needed.
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