Golf's Over and I'm Back - New Project - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 08:15 AM
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Nice work Vince. I think you made a wood worker out of your grandson.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 09:16 AM
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Good Show.

We had ours refaced with new doors and drawers. 1/2 the price of new. Took longer. Hired it all done. Now way was I going to attempt it myself.

Hats off to you.

And you still had time for golf. I'm impressed!!

HJ

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Now I know why old guys wear suspenders.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 09:24 AM
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Good to see you back, Vince. Beautiful project. Maybe we can get a pic when the top is on.

Sent from my Hallicrafters S-40 using morse code.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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@Knothead47

John: Couple reasons for not extending to the ceiling:

30" uppers/base cabs make better use of materials - each 4x8 sheet (49" x 97") yields 6 panels (for base cabs) with room to rip straight edges plus some nailer strips.
As you said, getting to the top of the uppers would require a step stool.
Extending all the way up means you have to deal with walls that are out of plumb and a ceiling that may not be perfectly level, so there'd be a slight gap anyway - no room for crown moulding. A larger space makes any imperfections in the walls/ceiling less noticeable.
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Some folks call me Vince - other folks call me...........
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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@honesttjohn

John: new doors on the original cabs made a big difference and they needed to match the doors on the new cabs anyway. Doors were made from 3/4" mdf for the rails/styles and 1/4" mdf for the flat panel. Drawer fronts made from 3/4" mdf. All outside edges got a small chamfer both for looks and to remove the sharp edge. MDF was a good choice because it's stable and these were getting painted anyway
@TenGees Paul hoping my daughter/SIL get their counter tops soon - will post a pic when I see it.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 01:59 PM
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Oh to have your skills!!
Beautiful job.....lasting memories!!
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 07:40 PM
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Got it. I sold cabinetry of three years- custom and factory built. I heard of a builder who would staple strips of cardboard to the wall studs where the backsplash of the countertop would be. He would run a tight string along the wall to see where the high and low cwere. His reasoning- when the sheetrock is installed, it would be straight with no gaps.

John T.
Life is like water-skiing; if you slow down, you go down.
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-09-2017, 01:07 AM
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All that AND golf, amazingly well done!
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vchiarelli View Post
@Knothead47

John: Couple reasons for not extending to the ceiling:

30" uppers/base cabs make better use of materials - each 4x8 sheet (49" x 97") yields 6 panels (for base cabs) with room to rip straight edges plus some nailer strips.
As you said, getting to the top of the uppers would require a step stool.
Extending all the way up means you have to deal with walls that are out of plumb and a ceiling that may not be perfectly level, so there'd be a slight gap anyway - no room for crown moulding. A larger space makes any imperfections in the walls/ceiling less noticeable.
Very good points Vince, newbs like me would not have thought about use of materials!
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vchiarelli View Post
@honesttjohn

John: new doors on the original cabs made a big difference and they needed to match the doors on the new cabs anyway. Doors were made from 3/4" mdf for the rails/styles and 1/4" mdf for the flat panel. Drawer fronts made from 3/4" mdf. All outside edges got a small chamfer both for looks and to remove the sharp edge. MDF was a good choice because it's stable and these were getting painted anyway
@TenGees Paul hoping my daughter/SIL get their counter tops soon - will post a pic when I see it.
(Newb here) Was cost a factor in choosing MDF? How does it compare in price against other materials?
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