First box joints - Router Forums
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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 05:18 AM Thread Starter
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Default First box joints

This is my first box. Nothing special. But an accomplishment for me. Any suggestions on the best way to trim/sand the slightly proud ends?
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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 05:48 AM
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Hi Debbie,one method to get an even finish to your box joints is to stick a sheet of sand paper to a flat surface & abrade your protruding joint fingers back & forth over this, making sure to hold the work piece upright at 90 degrees..Just watch that you don't go too far. Hops this makes sense. Your box joints look terrific for a first effort.Good luck,Jamesjj.

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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 06:17 AM
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Hi Debbie... nice job...
1st time eh... what ever you say...
my favorite method is a cranked neck paring chisel... use a sweeping cut/shaving action...
Narex® Cranked-Neck Paring Chisels - Lee Valley Tools
a trim router w/ a modified base..
the PDF shows a mortise style bit.. I prefer a helix trim bit..
safer/cleaner/more accurate/less fuss/muss/less tear-out...
if there are minor irregularities in the wood or the fingers a really proud run the bit's bearing on a layer of tape 1st...
Freud Tools - Search Results for helix
use a hard backed flat/long sanding block to finish and sand w/ the long grain....

NOTES:
after using the trimming base I found that adding a piece of HPL (laminate/Formica) to the bottom and rounding over the edges I avoided marring and scratching finished surfaces...
also.. wax the HPL before using the trimming base...
..
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File Type: pdf Flush Trimming with a Router.pdf (77.8 KB, 62 views)
File Type: pdf Sanding block plan.pdf (1.91 MB, 45 views)
File Type: pdf WAX.pdf (46.0 KB, 41 views)

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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Last edited by Stick486; 04-03-2018 at 06:55 AM.
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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 06:30 AM
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Good looking first box, Debbie! I would probably sand them down but if you have a really sharp chisel as Stick suggested that will make quick work of those. If you use the flush trim router bit be sure to use a sacrificial piece on the end where the finger is the last piece. Otherwise it might tear out a bit.

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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 06:42 AM
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Looking great so far, Debbie. . You have accomplished the hardest part of making boxes with box jointed corners, and that is getting the pin widths and pin spaces to fit together well..

Is your box glued together yet? Have you thought about how to attach the top and bottom? Solid wood tops and bottoms change size with humidity changes, and if just attached to the box sides with glue they will either split or break free with humidity changes. It's best to cut a dado into the box sides and fit the solid top and bottom into these dados without glue as the box is assembled and corner glued. This lets the solid wood panel change in size as the humidity changes without breaking the box.

Plywood is more dimensionally stable than solid wood, so in most cases you can just glue the plywood tops and bottoms to the box sides without a problem, but the disadvantage to this is that the box appearance will suffer, because the plywood edges will show, unless installed in dados like the solid wood panels.

Now to answer your question about trimming the pins to length after gluing -

I place a scrap piece of 3/4" thick wood on my router table top attaching it in place with double sided tape. This is a spacer to hold your box above the router table. I locate it about 2" from the router bit. A flush trim router bit with an end bearing is installed. I then place one of the assembled box sides on this board so that the pins of one side of the corner hang down between the board and the bit, and set the height of the router bit so that the bearing rides on the smooth box side above the pins to be cut. Use a piece of scrap as a pusher and feed the pins into the spinning bit. The pusher block should protect the last pin from chipping as you cut this last pin and cut into the pusher block. Then flip the box and repeat to flush trim the excess pins from each side of each box corner. A light to moderate sanding should make the pins perfectly flat and smooth. I usually use my Random Orbit Sander and 150 grit paper for this.

If you go with just gluing a plywood top and bottom to your box sides, make each about 1/4" larger all the way around.It's easier to position and glue correctly this way. Then flush trim this excess off on the router table with the same flush trim router bit. Sand the edges smooth with the ROS and 150 grit paper.

Charley
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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 07:29 AM
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Hi Debbie. I like what Stick and Charley said best but if you have a block plane you could use that. Just giving you something else to think about.


Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkeye10 View Post
Hi Debbie. I like what Stick and Charley said best but if you have a block plane you could use that. Just giving you something else to think about.

]
make sure it's a LA (low angle) plane and shave w/ a sweeping motion to avoid tear-out...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 09:34 AM
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Nice job. Good answers. Kind of interesting the mental process we go through when we try something new to us.
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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 09:40 AM
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I use my linisher (belt sander), it's quick, simple and gives a perfect finish. I just took this set-up shot to illustrate the method.
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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-03-2018, 10:11 AM
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Debbie; if you'd posted that last Sunday (Apr 1) I'd have called 'April Fools' on the "first box" part...
Excellent job! The Engineer in you comes shining through.
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