Barbie's She Shed - Page 6 - Router Forums
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post #51 of 76 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 09:31 PM
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Barb,
A separate circuit for each wall of the shop is a bit over done. How many power tools will be connected to these outlets and in use at the same time? Can you use a drill and a sander at the same time? With Ken working on one side of the shop and you the other side I think 2 circuits would be enough, but it's your shop and your money. Just make certain that not all of the lights are connected to the same outlet circuit. Run one set of lights from one and the other set from another other outlet circuit. That way you won't be in total darkness when you trip a breaker.

If you are going to bury the power cable from the house to the shop you should consider adding other wires to the trench, like Cable TV, Intercom, Telephone, Internet, Remote control for the heat/cooling system, alarm system, etc. Wire is cheap, so adding the wires for these now, even if you don't plan to use them all immediately, is a good idea. This way you won't need to dig another trench to add something later. I Just ran a second 1 1/2" conduit for these, but pulled the wire for everything and left considerable extra wire at both ends so I could make use of them later. If in the same conduit, they all need to be low voltage signal type cables. Don't run power cables mixed with signal cables in the same conduit. I used PVC conduit and glued all of the joints. It just ends in the crawl space under the house and between the wall studs in the shop, but the wires are long enough to go into the shop attic for accessibility after the shop walls are covered.

I don't know what kind of heater Ken is considering, but electric heat is expensive to run, and uses a considerable amount of the available load on your shop panel. If he goes this way, make certain that there is enough power available to run the heater, dust collector, table saw, lights, and a few smaller power tools at the same time. I'm in the Southeast now, so I now am using a heat pump in my shop, so I get both heating and cooling from the same unit. When I lived in NY State and had a separate shop I had an oil furnace from a mobile home that burned #2 fuel oil and a window air conditioner for the few really warm days. You just need to figure out the economics for the heating and cooling choices that you and Ken make.

Charley
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post #52 of 76 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by OutoftheWoodwork View Post
@thomas1389 somewhat "southern" (Waterford/White Lake area). Ken plans on having a heater installed in one of the upper corners of the workshop. I just have to get used to the idea that I have to go out to the workshop, turn on the lights and heater, and go back a half hour later. I'm used to starting up my little heater and the room being warm in a matter of a few minutes (since the old shed was 10x12), so it never took long to get it heated up. This will be a totally new experience. However, unlike some, I'll be insulated. Ken won't let me procrastinate on the insulation. He's already givin' me crap over what we're putting in and when.
Here's a dumb question.... When you, or any person, responds to another I see the symbol @ and the name of the person highlighted in blue, then the message. I don't know how to do that. Would you tell me, please. Also, if I want to quote just a portion of a post when I reply, how is that done ? This question likely belongs in a separate post but I thought while I had you I'd ask. I obviously am not that computer literate. lol. Does it show?
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post #53 of 76 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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@thomas1389 the @ symbol will "mention" or give you a notification that someone is directing what they're saying directly to you, rather than the group. To do this, I press the @, and without a space, type the members nickname (I would be OutoftheWoodwork).

To eliminate what you don't want in a quote, well, to me, that's easiest by doing it on a computer, and you just highlight and delete the text you don't want in there, and type below the "quoted text."

Hope that helps
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post #54 of 76 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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@CharleyL

You're killin' me okay, one thing at a time: Each wall to have their own breaker was a recommendation from my electrician/structural guys here; it's not considered overkill when you're talking power tools and how much they pull when in use. I may be running my router, and Ken will be cutting, or sanding, or doing something close by. If each wall has their own breaker, and his wall pops, then I can keep on working. No telling what is going to be out there; as for my money/my shop, Ken is doing the most tedious part of laying the electricity, and his bill is easy to pay no cash involved... as to how it will be run to the house, I don't know, and won't know until I get the electrician to the house to go over the options. I have wifi, and use it for all my television watching, (Ken is talking about putting in one of our extra televisions in there; he'll be watching it, not me, unless I find a how-to video I need to see and follow along with). no landlines, intercom is for old farts (jk), and more than likely I'll have the wifi handling the security. I'll have to get the booster to reach out to the workshop, but I'm good with that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
Barb,
A separate circuit for each wall of the shop is a bit over done. How many power tools will be connected to these outlets and in use at the same time?

I don't know what kind of heater Ken is considering, but electric heat is expensive to run, and uses a considerable amount of the available load on your shop panel. If he goes this way, make certain that there is enough power available to run the heater, dust collector, table saw, lights, and a few smaller power tools at the same time. I'm in the Southeast now, so I now am using a heat pump in my shop, so I get both heating and cooling from the same unit. When I lived in NY State and had a separate shop I had an oil furnace from a mobile home that burned #2 fuel oil and a window air conditioner for the few really warm days. You just need to figure out the economics for the heating and cooling choices that you and Ken make.

Charley

Well yeah, thus the reason for the separate circuits? The heater is something Ken has in his head. I have no way of putting a gas line out to the workshop, so electricity is how it will be handled, (and on it's own circuit, not on with the power tools because of the draw on it.) I also have a stand up freezer that will be out there, (to get it out of the spare room in the house; my house is s m all, can ya tell?) so that has to be taken into consideration.

There will be two (2) light switches one for each side, and the breaker box is going to be close to those switches, so I'm guessing Ken was gonna hook them up so that if one pops, it won't take the other with it; leaving me in the dark. I'll know all the who's what's where's and why's after I get the electrician out to the house to look it all over. I may have Ken just do the boxes and outlets, holding off on the wires until after I get someone out there.
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Barb


Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please.
Mark Twain

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.
Henry A. Kissinger

If you choose to poke at a bee hive, be prepared to get stung.

Last edited by OutoftheWoodwork; 06-12-2019 at 11:14 AM.
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post #55 of 76 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 12:55 PM
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I am a big fan of lights on multiple circuits. Nothing worse than tripping a breaker and the lights go out when a power tool is running.

With 2 light circuits at least half should always be on

Doug
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post #56 of 76 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 05:42 PM
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It’s all open and accessible right now , so I’d sooner over design . I’m liking the 12gauge 20amp wire and separate circuits on each wall idea.
And I believe I read your putting in 240V circuits to .


Barb I dislike wifi and would have Ethernet running into the shop from the houses router .
Would also hardwire alarm sensors while I’m at it . I have wireless alarm sensors which work fine from my alarm panel in my house to my unattached garage , but I have to change batteries yearly .
Anything that can be hardwired instead of wireless is better in my books

currently washed up

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 06-12-2019 at 05:45 PM.
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post #57 of 76 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 07:04 PM
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Great job on the shed! I'm in the IT field and highly suggest that you at the very minimum run a separate conduit from your house to the shed with a pull string in it. You can run this in the same trench as the electric, I believe most code will require at least 12" vertical separation. Why skimp on $50 of materials when you have spent thousands. It won't cost any extra in labor since the trench is already being dug.

I have a feeling you will experience intermittent connection to your WiFi and when you get fed up with that you will have wished you ran the ethernet. Also, if you put LED lighting in, it can really interfere with your signals.

Any kind of streaming will tax your wireless connection, so you will want an Access Point (Ubuquity Unify are great) installed in your shed for best connection to those devices.

Now there are solutions for wireless back haul (P2P wifi) but the cost is far more than what two runs of cat6A would be, always do two runs of cable. Just keep the max length below 100m (if you need further get single mode fiber with converters).

Also security should never be on wifi. It should be hard wired, and powered separately on a UPS. But that's a whole different conversation.


What are you doing for your floor? Epoxy sealing? Bare wood floors always make for a dusty shop and harder to clean.

Best to you and your build!
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post #58 of 76 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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What are you doing for your floor? Epoxy sealing? Bare wood floors always make for a dusty shop and harder to clean.

Best to you and your build!
The floors are deep tongue-in-groove 2x8's. (see https://www.weaverbarns.com/ ) Epoxy that? I'd be slippin all over the place?

As for the other recommendations, thank you. I'll run it all by Ken. You make some valid points (as do you all, who have been giving me pointers, and I thank you all.)

We got our final approval, and the sticker, stuck on the building permit hangs proudly next to the side door to show it's all set *whoop whoop!*
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Barb


Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please.
Mark Twain

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.
Henry A. Kissinger

If you choose to poke at a bee hive, be prepared to get stung.
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post #59 of 76 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 08:34 AM
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@thomas1389 the @ symbol will "mention" or give you a notification that someone is directing what they're saying directly to you, rather than the group. To do this, I press the @, and without a space, type the members nickname (I would be OutoftheWoodwork).

To eliminate what you don't want in a quote, well, to me, that's easiest by doing it on a computer, and you just highlight and delete the text you don't want in there, and type below the "quoted text."

Hope that helps
Oh, so simple when it's explained. I was trying to do all kind of weird things to make it work. Thanks, Barb.
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post #60 of 76 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 10:40 AM
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What are you doing for dust collection? Mine is on one of the three circuits, which are all color coded so I can avoid plugging two machines, AC/heater, in at the same time. The DC, to me, is a must. The floor, consider using some of the ultra thick paint for decks. Not a slick surface, but will make cleanup easier, including the occasional damp mop. When you can, add one of the WEN filters you hang from the ceiling (near a wall) and run for an hour or two when you leave. And if you aren't going to have a DC unit, at least wear masks. You don't want to be careless about your lungs.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
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