Ken gets his spot... - Router Forums
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Default Ken gets his spot...

So Ken got his small portion of the shed/garage... (First Picture)

Other pictures:

Ken has gotten a few of the insulation pieces in, and all of the duravents are in place in the rafters
A view from the back wall, as of this afternoon
First of what I'm sure will be many different ways that the workshop will be set up
Since we've decided that everything will be movable, Ken is putting the old white kitchen counter I got from my aunt on it's wheels;
and finally, that ole 50's (I think) counter on her casters.

Ken was given some cushion pads some time ago. I put them away until a week or so ago, and pulled them out. I was able to arrange them in such a way that I can have them around my center work table (somewhat). I'm gonna have to get another set to get them to fit the way I want them to around the table.they're in a bit of disarray in the picture, here, because we tipped over the bench to put the locking casters on it. I'm pleased with the end result.

Oh yeah. Ken bought me a generator this weekend. Generac 3300. Should be enough for the shed for now.
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Barb


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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 09:11 PM
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Looking good Barb , and filling up fast . I’m in disbelief how my garage is going to nickel and dime me to death to get it where I want .
These shops can sure get costly lol
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I donít always insulate , but when I do .

Ok , I never insulate
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Looking good Barb , and filling up fast . Iím in disbelief how my garage is going to nickel and dime me to death to get it where I want .
These shops can sure get costly lol
Thanks, Rick. Still so much to do. To finish the insulation in the roof will be over $200, and the walls will be probably close to $500. Maybe more. Not sure what it's gonna cost me to have the electric actually hooked up and run to the house. So, yeah, I can believe it, Rick lol I'll be paying someone Friday $225 to put in the garage door, and the opener we're gonna have to utilize will be almost $500. (A wall unit, rather than above the door, because we only have 7' walls.) The conventional one that hangs from the ceiling will be too low; the truck won't fit, because of the bar that hooks to the door.

Barb


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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by OutoftheWoodwork View Post
Oh yeah. Ken bought me a generator this weekend. Generac 3300. Should be enough for the shed for now.
Barb, if you want to quieten that generator, let me know, and I should be able to give some tips. I've been working on designing a project for a good while, it will use a small engine, and I want to make it quiet, so been doing some research on that - and not on youtube, all the persons on their seem to be using cherry bomb mufflers, and then boasting on the decible drop. Hah. I've ran across some ideas that should actually work.

And I've decided to go cordless with my project. Yanking a starter cord on those small engines is too hard on me any more. So, decided I will convert it to electric start. Thinking I will go with something better later, but for the prototype will get a battery powered drill and use that to start the engine. HF has a lithium 18v battery drill for about $25, should be perfect.
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I am currently unsupervised. I know, it freaks me out too. But the possibilities are endless!
Call me a craftsman, artisan, or artistic, and I will accept that. Call me an artist and you will likely get a quite rude comment in return. I am not a @#$%ing artist.
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 11:55 PM
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Nice space, that's for sure. My wife treated me to an electrician who tapped the main box, ran about 50 feet of condult underground, back to a 60 amp sub panel. He used an 8 ft copper rod driven into the ground for the ground, then 3 12 gauge wires from new breakers in the old box. That makes 3 20 amp circuits. If you can dig your own trench, you can lay in the wires yourself. Needs to have a riser at each enad going into the old box, and at the other end, into the sub panel. The sub panel has breakers, then wires run to three boxes with 20 amp GFCI plugs.

IN your case, the sub panel can go inside, and feed the circuits in your shop.

Cost was $1500, including an extra circuit through the attic that runs our swamp cooler.

If you dig the trench, run the conduit, pull the wires and install the box yourself, you could probably do the job pretty easily and keep costs down. Have the electrician hook things up.

Pulling the wires through the conduit through 3 major bends was surprisingly easy. The electrician used a lite length of twine with a wad of plastic wrap on one end. He inserted it on one end then used a vacuum to suck it through to the other end. Then he tied a heavier rope (what HD has so you can tie your load down) onto the string and pulled it through. He tied and taped the twine to the 3 wires and pulled the wires through as I fed then into the conduit on the other end. Done is jig time! I think you can do all that mechanical stuff yourself and only have the electrician hook up the wires to the new breakers. We used full sized breakers but you can get the thin ones that you can put two in the existing panel.

110 v is pretty simple to hook up. I always use 12 gauge wire, 2 conductors and a ground, better to overdo it than hope lighter weight stuff will work. The cable from the subpanel outlets into the sheds is flexible conduit. Works quite well, and is now covered over by a small deck. The cables in the flex conduit are from 10 gauge braided wire extension cords. Simple
way to get from the sub panel into the shed.

After having watched the electrician do all this (he had a small ditch witch) in about half a day, I wouldn't hesitate for a moment to do the basic wiring in a shop like yours. The only part of my installation that was a bear was cutting through some massive roots left over from a big Cotton Wood.

You can find a book on wiring at Home Depot. Then hire an electrician just to hook it up and give it his blessing. The sub panel installation here didn't even require a permit.

For lights and a power outlet on the same circuit, you can buy wire with an extra (red) conductor. The on/off switch goes on the red wire. It is nice to have a power outlet over the work spaces.

I am wondering where you're going to put the table saw?

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 05:18 AM Thread Starter
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I am wondering where you're going to put the table saw?
Not sure if I'm gonna get one, Tom. They scare me. If I find one that doesn't scare me (last one I had rattled so bad I wouldn't touch it, so Ken sold it.) I'm sure I'll find a place.

Barb


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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 06:51 AM
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Hi, I didn't follow the rest of the build, and the way we build here is different. what is this:

https://www.routerforums.com/attachm...hmentid=370933

I know its the roof, but is it isolation, or ?
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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Hi, I didn't follow the rest of the build, and the way we build here is different. what is this:

https://www.routerforums.com/attachm...hmentid=370933

I know its the roof, but is it isolation, or ?
Hentie:

Those are vents to prevent the airflow from being restricted from the soffits to the ridge vent in the roof. The insulation (in our case, the pink foam at the other end of the picture) is cut to fit snugly and pressed in just enough to be flush with the frame of the rafters.
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Barb


Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please.
Mark Twain

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.
Henry A. Kissinger

If you choose to poke at a bee hive, be prepared to get stung.
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 07:39 AM
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Coming along nicely, Barb...one thing at a time...you'll be in full swing in no time...

It looks really good already...!
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 08:47 AM
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Looking great so far Barb it will all be worth it in the end.
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