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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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I have watched several of you making or seen the end product of your cutting boards for several years.
I am thinking of trying my hand at them. What is the best oil to use to finish a cutting board. I know it must be some thing that isn't going to poison
the users. I was thinking of baby oil or vegetable oil.

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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019, 11:03 AM
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Dave,

They sell mineral oil and cutting board oil at HD or Lowes or Ace ---- and a bunch of other places.
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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019, 11:08 AM
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Just get the store brand mineral oil from the pharmacy department. It's far less expensive than mineral oil packaged for cutting boards but it's the same thing. That's what we've used on all the ones we've built (somewhere around 75 or so).

I also add a little Beeswax to the final coat but that's not required. I keep a container with a little Beeswax melted into the mineral oil and use it sparingly.

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Edit - vegetable oil will go rancid so not a good choice
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Last edited by difalkner; 12-07-2019 at 11:12 AM. Reason: added text
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I'll use the mineral oil. I believe I have some of that on hand.
I'll post what I come up with. (If they turn out decent).

David
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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019, 12:35 PM
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David; I bought a plastic blanket storage tray to do my mineral oil process in. I flood the board with at least a pint of mineral oil and let it soak overnight. Flip it over and do the other side next morning. If it's end grain, the oil will have soaked right through.
take it out and let it dry a bit (maybe another day or so) then as the others have suggested, I apply a mix of 1 part beeswax to 4 parts mineral oil liberally. Let it soak in, then buff vigorously. The warmth generated by the buffing will help the wax penetrate into the wood.
The difference between mineral oil and vegetable oil is that the mineral oil will never go rancid.
I like to give the recipient a little jelly jar of 'board butter' with their gift cutting board; re-waxing when water no longer beads on the board is really important.
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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019, 01:16 PM
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Thanks guys, I'll use the mineral oil. I believe I have some of that on hand.
I'll post what I come up with. (If they turn out decent).

David
Oh, no, you're not getting off that easy. At this point photos are required whether or not they come out decent!

David

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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019, 03:38 PM
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In the spirit of Full Disclosure, which ever oil finish you use be aware that there's a potential for a small amount of oil to migrate out and it could stain a tablecloth if your board doesn't have foot pads. Mine don't as I expect both sides to be used for cutting*.
I make one side with juice channels and the flip side without.
*No, not at the same time!
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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019, 04:25 PM
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Edit - vegetable oil will go rancid so not a good choice
Not so sure about that. Years ago I communicated with a college professor (food science I believe), and asked him about vegetable oil going rancid. He told me that it only goes rancid if heated above, or at, cooking temperature. I tend to believe this as I finished a rocking chair with new vegetable oil cooking oild. That was probably about 25 years ago, and it has sat in my front room ever since, and not turned rancid yet.

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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019, 05:01 PM
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I wouldn't take a chance on it Theo. Every so often I get a packaged food (like peanuts) which have sat in storage too long and the oil has started to go rancid.
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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019, 05:27 PM
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Not much to add to the above as the comments are bang on. I use the butcher block oils from HD, starting with the plain oil and the final coat is their combination of oil and beeswax. in each application the oil is heated in a small crock pot and applied as as hot as can be safely handled with a soft rag. The board is left to dry for 24 hours before the final coatis applied.

To date I have added footpads to all boards per the end users request. I use plastic feet from ACE hardware attached with stainless steel screws. These are added as the last step, the screw holes are however pre-drilled so that some of the oiled seeps into that area.
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Last edited by JFPNCM; 12-07-2019 at 05:32 PM.
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