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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-25-2006, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Default New Router Table

For several years I owned 2- low HP, low quality, department store routers. They would only accept 1/4" bits, were not easy to adjust, and were just no fun to use. So they just sat. Then I discovered The Router Workshop on PBS(about 3 episodes before it went off the air). While searching for info on where to view it I found this forum and have been hooked ever since.

The two old routers went out by way of Ebay and I got a PC 9690 and built a portable table. It worked fine but I soon found several ways to improve it and built #2 (still portable). Then I got a Hitachi KM12VC kit (more HP and first plunge router) and built a horizontal table.

Now my needs for a vertical table had changed. The hitachi is a little taller than the PC. And with the horizontal table for raized panels I dont need a large table surface. Plus with all the info and knowlege I have gained from this site my router is now used more than any other tool I own. So I wanted the new table to be its own self contained unit (not perched on top of something else). With storage for all my bits and accesories. And decided to make it entirely of MDF because I like the way it looks.

The top is 2 pieces of MDF glued and screwed together making it 1 1/2" thick and wrapped with MDF. The plate is the standard 3/8" phenolic one thats sold everywhere. The fence allthough modified several times was built for table #1. It has a homemade dust port and the switch on the side turns on the shop-vac and router at the same time. Behind the top doors there is nothing but the cavity where the router hangs. Behind the lower doors is storage and a drawer for bits, wrenches, and guides. The bits are in removable trays made of 3/4" MDF with 1/2" holes drilled all the way through and 1/4" hardboard attached to the bottom. The whole thing rides on four 3" total locking casters I got on sale at Grizzly.

Sorry for the long intro but I want everyone to know how much I appreciate this forum and its members. The wealth of information here has caused me to do at least a little woodworking allmost daily (and spend loads of money).

Thanks Everyone, Rusty
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-25-2006, 02:44 AM
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Very nicely done Rusty. I have a suggestion for an additional feature that may interest you. Draw a line to one of the corners from the bit. By locating a series of holes along this line to fit your safety pin (as a pivot point), you have a built in circle jig. This is handy if you make a lot of wheels or round table tops.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-25-2006, 08:42 PM
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Rusty, that is one sweet looking table you have made there. Very professional looking. Keep up the great work and thanks for posting the pics of it.




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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-25-2006, 09:28 PM
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Well done, looks great!
What finish did you use on the top?

Michael
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-25-2006, 09:46 PM
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Hi Rusty

That's a GREAT Looking Router Table
You did a great job, take 4 1/2 gold stars out of petty cash
I only see one error and that's not bad at all...again nice job.


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-26-2006, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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Michael, so far there is'nt any finish on it. For the table surface I'm planning to use Johnson & Johnson paste wax as recommended by BJ. Not sure yet what I will put on the bottom.

BJ, I'm curious as to the error you saw? While assembling I realized I made the top doors to short. Or was it for ventalation to keep the router from over heating..HaHaHa.

Rusty
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-26-2006, 12:08 PM
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Thanks Rusty. I asked because I'm working on a few mdf/hardboard jigs and tables and haven't decided how to finish them yet. I'm thinking waterbourne poly and wax.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-26-2006, 06:06 PM
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Hi Rusty

The only thing I saw was the router was to far back, I can see why you put it in that spot but when you want to put in a dado slot more than 4 " from the edge you will run out of table and fence hold down clamps, but you could just flip the fence around but then again the fence is a be short on the sides to clamp it down to top.

I did see the extra holes in the fence base plate for the hold down clamps but it looks like that will only give you a 3 1/4 offset.

But that's just me and just my 2 cents but It looks great

Bj




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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-27-2006, 03:17 AM Thread Starter
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BJ, The fence allthough modified several times was made for my 1st table and I'm planning to make a new one for this one. As soon as I put it on I realized I could'nt back it off far enough to lift out the plate without the bolts dropping out of the track. Will probably build something much more simple that wraps the table edge. And clamps from the edge or underneath. I really like the pics I've seen of yours with the removable T&G inserts.

Rusty
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-27-2006, 11:50 PM
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WOW Rusty Fantastic Job. I just wish I had the time to make a new router table.

I thought I would run out of Projects to make but the boss just put in a order for 3 tables, 3 5' shelves and a 6'x32"x10" Chicken Coop, basicly a 15 compartment box with Chickenwire on the back. She saw this in one of her magazines. Keeps me out of trouble.
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