DIY Extension Cord - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Default DIY Extension Cord

Some of you may have something like this in your shop. I made one a couple of years ago. Currently, it is hooked up to my ShopVac, which is underneath my miter saw station. I have used a cheap remote in the past, and it worked OK also.

The extension cord has an outlet and a switch. The outlet is a handy item to have nearby, especially for temporary operations such as a random orbital sander or router, etc.

Note: My outlet is switched. I suppose you could wire it to be powered any time the cord is plugged in.

Here is a link to the instructions to make your own.
DIY Extension Cord With Built in Switch - Safe, Quick and Simple

Mike
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 07:25 PM
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Mike,

Great minds think alike, I guess! I took a damaged 12 ga. Triple-tap extension cord and wired it up into a freestanding cabinet that I use for my miter saw.

The switch is a Sears auto switch which starts the vacuum up when the saw starts. There is a loop for coiling up the cord when not needed.

Kind of neat to see how similar solutions are employed in everyone's shops.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Kind of neat to see how similar solutions are employed in everyone's shops.
That's right. If you look closely at my pics, you will see a blast gate just to the right of the switch and under the miter saw. That allows me to hook up a hose to the ROS or the router table, and shut off the gate to the miter saw. Or just use it to sweep the floor! :-)

I have a similar set up between my table saw and outfeed table. That switch controls the dust collector. I also have a pair of blast gates that I can line up to the saw or to a flexible hose that connects to the planer or drum sander. Easy to switch gates and flip the switch.

Kinda old fashioned in this age of wireless remotes, but they work for me.

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2014, 10:00 AM
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Default Application for attic gable fan

Mike ~ I did something similar when I installed a new attic gable fan. The fan was hardwired into the 20 amp feed line which meant that I had to go back down to the main breaker box to cut off the power. I realized that some time in the future, I would need to do maintenance on the fan (e.g. clean out wasp nests, clean the fan blades, etc) and needed to be able to turn off the power at the fan. I also wanted the ability to plug in a trouble light or run an extension cord from the junction box. I built a duplex and switch in a junction box and used a grounded computer cable for the fan line. The main feed line is hardwired into the junction box. In this case, it technically is not a portable extension cord as described in your post. When I want to remove the fan, I simply turn off the power at the switch and unplug the fan cable from the socket. But if I still want power for a trouble light or another power tool, I turn the switch back on. The attached photos and wiring diagram tell the story. If the electricians in our forum would like to check out the accuracy of the wiring diagram, please jump in.

Bob
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Last edited by Web Shepherd; 11-27-2014 at 10:30 AM.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2014, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Cool. I like it.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-28-2014, 12:48 AM
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Thanks Gents given me some good ideas.

Cheers, Kerry

Kerry

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-11-2014, 09:49 PM
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Computer power cables are usually only 16 GA stranded copper and the insulation is not rated for the heat or meltdown should the fan motor fail in a dead short on a 20 amp line. Please replace it with a solid copper 14 GA BX or Romex, with another in line switch. Before the fire.

Good idea but, bad choice of cable.

Remember flexible cords are a temporary source of power, NEVER a plug-in and forget !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let Us know Ya fixed this.

Jim

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-11-2014, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesamd View Post
Computer power cables are usually only 16 GA stranded copper and the insulation is not rated for the heat or meltdown should the fan motor fail in a dead short on a 20 amp line. Please replace it with a solid copper 14 GA BX or Romex, with another in line switch. Before the fire.

Good idea but, bad choice of cable.

Remember flexible cords are a temporary source of power, NEVER a plug-in and forget !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let Us know Ya fixed this.

Jim
Who are you talking about? I never mentioned anything about a computer.
Just sayin'.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-11-2014, 10:02 PM
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You are right Mike I was responding to Bob's post ( Web Shepherd)

Jim

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-15-2014, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Computer power cables are usually only 16 GA stranded copper and the insulation is not rated for the heat or meltdown should the fan motor fail in a dead short on a 20 amp line. Please replace it with a solid copper 14 GA BX or Romex, with another in line switch. Before the fire.
Thanks, James. I will follow your advice.

Bob
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