My latest sign (coonass) - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 08:29 PM
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Gene, I tried that before I painted the boarder. Sprayed a light coat of clear coat, and let it dry over night. Then the next day, I painted the black border. Let it dry, and the next night, after sanding some of the black off the sides, I went to blow the dust off, and one corner of the black paint started peeling off. Luckily on the one corner did that. But I'll be afraid to do that again. Maybe the conditioner, wont do that, I hope! I was also thinking about about staining the next one, and see what that does, to stop the bleeding.
The conditioner should do the trick for you Lee. I have quite a few cedar dog ear fence pieces that I use for welcome signs, that have been out in my shed all winter. I had Ken sand them smooth for transfer of patterns, and had him put a good coat of conditioner on them before I even started working tonight. (I have 8 signs to cut tonight. Keep your fingers crossed I can get them done lol )

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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-30-2016, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Well, hand delivered my "Coon Ass" sign, this morning. Sold it for $75.!! My first buck earned with my hobby!! Going buy some wood to make a 3 in 1 high chair, rocking horse and desk, for my wives niece.
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-30-2016, 03:35 PM
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Congrats on your first sign sale, Lee!
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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-30-2016, 04:11 PM
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congratulations Lee...
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-30-2016, 04:58 PM
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Lee nice sign & congrats on the sale. What are you using for your black? Spray Black Paint, Acrylic, Marsh Ink, Ect? I use either Acrylic or Rustoleum 2X Black Primer on my signs. Also use a sanding sealer beforehand. You can use a brush on or spray sanding sealer. You can also use a clear spray lacquer to prevent bleeding which is what I put on my last sign. Which was done on 2' X 2' Pine laminated edge glued panel board from home depot. Which is notorious for bleeding. I sprayed a good coat of DEF clear lacquer. Not to then but not to heavy either. Then used Rustoleum 2X Black Primer. Keep the primer in the fridge before using to help cut down on over spraying because it tends to want to spray heavy. you need a light touch with it. You can also use Black Acrylic. Acrylics will not bleed as bad as other paints. Hope this helped you out some. If you need anything else you can send me a friend request on Facebook under Bobby Lee Russell. I'm usually logged in all the time there.
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A piece of wood a day; Helps keep the ill troubles of life away..
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-31-2016, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Oliver, Stick and BobbyLee!

BobbyLee, I use Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel, And then the Rustoleum Gloss Clear Lacquer spray. When I did the borders, on my Coonass sign, I sprayed the clear lacquer first, to prevent bleeding around the boarders, as it did on the letters. And after I sanded the top again, cleaning the excess from around the border (the next day, after it dried, of course), and went to blow the dust off, I blew off part of my painted boarder. Which is what I was afraid of. The paint didn't stick to the clear lacquer. It didn't bleed, but the paint also didn't stick, where I wanted it to!! So what is a sanding sealer? Is that anything like what Barbara recommended, using a conditioner??

Will a flat black bleed less, maybe?
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-31-2016, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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BobbyLee, you do your signs free handed, right? So you must do the outlines of your lettering using a small bit first, then clean out the middle? I'm just noticing all your sharp corners on your letters, and what looks like squared off notches, in the middle of your letters. And your lettering looks so straight! Awesome looking!! I have the most trouble on my "O"'s. Can't keep a steady circle!!
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 06:11 PM
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BobbyLee, you do your signs free handed, right? So you must do the outlines of your lettering using a small bit first, then clean out the middle? I'm just noticing all your sharp corners on your letters, and what looks like squared off notches, in the middle of your letters. And your lettering looks so straight! Awesome looking!! I have the most trouble on my "O"'s. Can't keep a steady circle!!
Yes Lee all my signs are done Free hand. I just take my time and try not to rush anything on my signs or get to complacent. The 1st time you do is where the 1st mistake will come from. That whole sign was done with 2 straight bits. A 1/8th & 1/16th. Lettering on a lot of my other signs was usually done with a profile or SC-50 line carving bit. I'm still learning as well and adapting new techniques on different pieces. Thanks for the compliments. If you get the chance come swing by; Hand Routed Signs 4 Newbies on Facebook. You'll find a lot of great lookin' signs on there as well as a lot of valuable info that we all share with one another. That group has really enabled me to step things up a notch in my sign making.

A piece of wood a day; Helps keep the ill troubles of life away..

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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 06:55 PM
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Thanks Oliver, Stick and BobbyLee!

BobbyLee, I use Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel, And then the Rustoleum Gloss Clear Lacquer spray. When I did the borders, on my Coonass sign, I sprayed the clear lacquer first, to prevent bleeding around the boarders, as it did on the letters. And after I sanded the top again, cleaning the excess from around the border (the next day, after it dried, of course), and went to blow the dust off, I blew off part of my painted boarder. Which is what I was afraid of. The paint didn't stick to the clear lacquer. It didn't bleed, but the paint also didn't stick, where I wanted it to!! So what is a sanding sealer? Is that anything like what Barbara recommended, using a conditioner??

Will a flat black bleed less, maybe?
Lee; This is a spray on sanding sealer. Sanding sealer will help seal the wood grain and prevent bleeding. I don't recommend using any standard spray paint. As the paint will almost certainly bleed. Use instead a a primer (Rusto-leum) Or Marsh Spray Ink. Or hand brush Acrylics on. As I mentioned Pine is really susceptible to bleeding. Cedar not so much. I rarely use sanding sealer on my cedar signs. In fact out of all my cedar signs I only had one that bled on me and that was the rare one that I used sanding sealer on. But the bleeding was more so to the fact that I accidently over sprayed my primer due to the hot weather expanding the gases in the can causing it to spray out faster and heavier. It's best to keep the primer in the fridge before use with the hotter temps. In fact the " R Way Tack " Sign I used Deft Clear Lacquer on it because I was in a hurry that day at the hardware store and grabbed it by mistake. As The DEFT Clear Lacquer and DEFT Sanding Sealer Cans look identical. But as you can see; No bleeding on that Pine.
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A piece of wood a day; Helps keep the ill troubles of life away..
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 08:34 PM
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what spray adhesive works on the sealed wood?
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