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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Default Applying a pattern

What is the favorite method of applying a pattern to wood for a free hand sign?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 06:49 PM
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 07:22 PM
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Thanks, John

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by tvman44 View Post
What is the favorite method of applying a pattern to wood for a free hand sign?
Bob
Bob I use vinyl as I have explained previously but if it's a freehand design I go with the old fashion carbon paper then go over the lines on the wood with my pencil or a thin sharpie. Be careful with wood species if using a sharpie it will bleed on woods like pine and cedar

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 10:19 AM
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I use 2 methods.

The first is to print or copy the image using a laser printer or photo copy machine. These use a high temperature wax based ink powder that gets melted onto the paper. I then place this image face down onto the wood and once positioned correctly I use a hot iron to "iron" the image and melt the ink onto the wood. It dries hard quickly and sands off easily.

The second is to buy applique film from a stationery supply store (about $0.90 per 8 1/2 X 11 sheet US). It is a clear sticky backed plastic film that can be printed on using an ink jet, laser printer, or a photo copier. You can even free hand an image using a felt marker on it. When the image is prinnted on it via whatever method you use you then peel off the clear backing and stick it to the wood. It can be lifted and re-applied several times to get it positioned correctly and the glue does not transfer to the wood. The film cuts easily, letting you just cut through it to make your sign or carving (what I do) and then you just peel off whatever remains. No glue remains on the wood when you remove it.

I've found both of these methods to be far superior to carbon paper or other image transfer means.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 12:30 PM
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As usual, I do things a bit different than the rest of the world. To start, I do not freehand signs, in fact, I do not make signs, period.

Barb used to use carbon paper to transfer her designs, and have to admit, I think that is where I got the idea, because anything I don't freehand sketch, I now use carbon paper to transfer my design - all original designs, I have some saved on the printer, print one out when I need it, then use carbon paper to transfer it. These are ones with a lot of detail or such, that would take a lot of time to freehand sketch, and too easy to screw up.

Before I trace a pattern, I put a coat of Titebond II glue, thinned 50/50 with water on my wood. Dries very quickly. The reason for this is, once I trace the pattern, I go over it with a fine tip Sharpie marker, and the coat of glue keeps the marker from running, even the wide tip ones. The marker doesn't come off, but I still put maybe 3-4 more coats of the thinned Titebond over it.

I'll be sticking with the carbon paper, it's quite inexpensive, simple to use, and works out very well for what I do, and how I do it. I like it.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 12:56 PM
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I started out using trace paper, and it still use it occasionally, since it has advantages in some applications, such as when transferring a design to something I'm going to etch (the resistance would melt), or something with an odd shape.

As noted, using copies from a laser printer works in most instances. Using copies, I can either adhere the copy to the material, like scrollers do, and sacrifice it, or I can iron it on.

My go to method for many things is an opaque projector. My big one was owned by a school and will allow me enlarge small photos and actual objects with great detail and with some light in the room. My smaller one (SeeRite) works great, but you must subdue most lighting. However, it, also will accept 3-D items to project a single dimension image.

Recently, a friend asked me to makes some frames for his old Marylin Monroe poster and calendar he has hanging in his shop. On a whim, I used a 6" tall nude silhouette and, using a projector, enlarged it enough, about twenty-four inches, to install the poster.

After it was cut out, and some of the "curves" accentuated by carving or grinding, I just cut it in half, so the front became one side and the back another. A rabit later, along with a couple horizontal pieces, and he has a risque frame for his equally risque poster.

The reason I have what you want is, I never lent it out before.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 03:41 PM
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he has a risque frame for his equally risque poster.
However, we have no pictures. We definitely want pictures.

"It ain't what you're told, it's what you know." - Granny Weatherwax
Some days, the supply of available curse words is insufficient to meet my demands.
Call me a craftsman, artisan, or artistic, and I will accept that. Call me an artist and you will likely get a quite rude comment in return. I am not a @#$%ing artist.
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