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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Default Painting question?

After painting to fill in letters on a sign what do most of you do, plane the surface or sand the surface to remove any paint that is not wanted? Hope I made mymself clear. The paint seems to clog up sanding belts pretty fast and I don't have a planer, I do have a 6" jointer which should work for signs up to 6" wide. I can't seem to keep all the paint in the cuts.

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Using a couple of old Craftsman routers & a Bosch 1617EVSPK & a Dewalt DWP611PK Routers in SW Louisiana.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 12:24 PM
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You need the paint to dry longer if it's clogging paper up. I usually belt sand. I don't want the paint on the cutters or in the dust collection.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 12:45 PM
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Bob,
I have been very successful with using two incompatible paints during the finishing stage. I seal and finish the project with a clear lacquer finish and burnish it to a satisfactory sheen or gloss. After this I fill the letters' recesses with an enamel paint, which is incompatible with lacquer thinner based paints (like oil and water) and let it dry over night. The following morning the enamel paint is only partially dry and is still dissolvable in paint thinner. I wrap a layer of "T-shirt" material, moderately dampened with paint thinner, tightly around my index finger and gently and carefully remove any enamel paint that I may have slopped on the surface of the project by rubbing the edges of the letters. Of course, if you're going to stain your project, do so before you apply the lacquer finish. Also, don't attempt to remove too much of the enamel paint's overflow at one time. Regularly rotate the T-shirt material on your finger so that you are working with a clean spot most of the time. This method leaves sharp, clean lines of the letters. I don't suggest putting a final coat of lacquer over the project as a final step. This may crinkle or lift the enamel paint in the letters. You can put enamel paint on lacquer but you can't put lacquer on enamel paints. Try this method on a sample letter and let me know what you think of it.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvman44 View Post
After painting to fill in letters on a sign what do most of you do, plane the surface or sand the surface to remove any paint that is not wanted? Hope I made mymself clear. The paint seems to clog up sanding belts pretty fast and I don't have a planer, I do have a 6" jointer which should work for signs up to 6" wide. I can't seem to keep all the paint in the cuts.
Hi Bob - I've been planning them with a router and jig using a bit like #2706 here:

<img src="/v/vspfiles/assets/images/brands/magnatelogo_small.gif">Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit , 2 Flute Carbide Tipped

A smaller bit will work equally well. A 1-1/2" bit is significantly cheaper.

The jig is just a shallow box, deeper than the sign and a few inches longer and wider. This allows the sign to be wedged firmly about the center of the box. I made a sub base for the router that is long enough to span the short dimension of the box plus enough to allow the router bit reach both edges of the sign. The router rides on the top edge of the box sides and I use the micro depth control on the router.
Paint can really gum up the router bits but they will clean up pretty good. I'm pretty sure it would do a number on planner/jointer knives though. I usually spray paint mine though so I am likely removing more paint than you would be.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 06:21 AM
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I gave up on the spray paint, spray inks long time ago. I use acrylic paints now. No smell, no gummed up sanding belts, dries quick, many more colors available. No need to 'pre-seal' the letters prior to painting, the acrylic doesn't bleed.

Any paint that ends up on the surface, a quick hit with the random orbital sander and it's done.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 07:38 AM
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Many years ago I saw a woodworker do exactly what you are after. He used a pantographic router to carve the letters, which give identical, even letters. Then he used spraypaint to get into the letters, a reversed vacuum cleaner to ensure the paint was dry, and then used a sander to clean off any unwanted paint. I have used this method myself, and it works very well. You just have to make sure that the paint is totally dry. Good luck and happy painting.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 01:56 PM
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Twice through the jointer (after flipping the board) should give you up to 12".
Maybe a bit of sanding still with that method.
As the others stated, let the paint dry thoroughly.

Or a good excuse to buy that planer you want.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-06-2014, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceman567 View Post
I gave up on the spray paint, spray inks long time ago. I use acrylic paints now. No smell, no gummed up sanding belts, dries quick, many more colors available. No need to 'pre-seal' the letters prior to painting, the acrylic doesn't bleed.

Any paint that ends up on the surface, a quick hit with the random orbital sander and it's done.
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"the last person that was perfect was crucified"
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