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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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I just tried my first attempt at sign making using the Milescraft 1212 kit.

Everything with the kit itself worked well, but the letters were a little rougher than I would hope. I tried the 1-1/2" high letters and ran the bit about 3/16" deep, at 16k rpm in pine. The edges came out a little raggy, and the centers of the A's got mostly chipped out. I wasn't sure if I should try going twice through each letter, the first not as deep, and then take a deeper second cut. And not sure about the rpm? Any tips for a better result. I think the kit itself worked pretty good, but I just have to improve the cut quality.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 12:57 PM
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You might try slicing around the inside of the A with a chisel before you rout.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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I also noticed the wood get distressed around the letter E too. Its kind of hard to figure out where the insides will end up exactly, so I was hoping I was just at the wrong RPM or taking too much depth at one pass? Those are easier to fix.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 01:58 PM
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Hard maple...

I routed the name, sprayed it black, then sanded everything until all that was left was the black in the letters.

Spraying with Deft Clear wood finish gave it a nice glossy look.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 02:41 PM
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YOU sanded????? Thought you had staff for that. lol

Came out good.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by honesttjohn View Post
YOU sanded????? Thought you had staff for that. lol

Came out good.

HJ

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Finding a good sander is hard to do!

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 10:04 PM
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[QUOTE=mrmagloo;674682].....the centers of the A's got mostly chipped out. I wasn't sure if I should try going twice through each letter, the first not as deep, and then take a deeper second cut.QUOTE]



Mr Magloo, welcome to the forum. You've come to the right place for an answer to your problem. I'm sure there are people on the forum with experience using you kit.

I have never used your kit so I can't speak specifically about its functions. I make my signs freehand but I still have to be careful or I will have the same problems you are experiencing.

When I am cutting "E" or "A" letters, whether inset or outset letters, I make sure the LAST thing I cut is the middle bar of the "E" or the cross section of the "A". And I do just what you asked.....I take it in multiple passes.....usually 2 or 3 passes.

If I am cutting large letters, say 2" or taller, then I don't worry about these areas quite as bad. I just slow down and make sure I am paying particular attention here.

On the smaller sized letters, again whether inset or outset letters, I cut all the way around the outside of the letter first. Then I concentrate on cutting those critical areas.

These are not my words of wisdom. I owe all the credit to the good guys, Dave and Eric Rhoten. I'd suggest you watch their videos on Youtube. Their channel is Oldave100. Worth the visit.

And post pictures!! We love pictures!
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 10:22 PM
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When I do signs using my Milescraft kit I try to hold the guide bushing to the outermost edge on the inside of the letter templates. I am always very careful not to let the guide come away from the edge any at all. This is easier on some than others, particularly with letters like R and E. But if I can keep the guide bushing in contact with the template at all times, I find this gives me much more consistant results, and helps prevent the centers from tearing away so easily on letters such as A. It always does leave fuzz along the edges of the letters but this easily cleans up with a light sanding, or sometimes I use a chisel and drag it backwards along the letter edges, with varying results. I normally work with pine boards for signs. Different woods may react differently.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-11-2015, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies guys. This was my first time, so I'm trying to absorb as much as possible. I did try to watch a few of those videos, but I never could find one that specifically addresses RPM for different kinds of wood. Or maximum depth per cut or pass, which I think are the two variables that are affecting me the most. I actually wondered if a better bullet shaped bit might help too. This one that comes with the kit is obviously about as cheap as they come!
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