Bandsaw not cutting square - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-16-2015, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Default Bandsaw not cutting square

Had to take the table off my "older" Rockwell Delta table saw to replace a stripped set screw. That done I refitted the table but battle to get it to saw square to the std fence. Are there any tips or tricks? My Bandsaw Book by Lonnie Bird does not mention any such operation.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-16-2015, 10:32 AM
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Had to take the table off my "older" Rockwell Delta table saw to replace a stripped set screw. That done I refitted the table but battle to get it to saw square to the std fence. Are there any tips or tricks? My Bandsaw Book by Lonnie Bird does not mention any such operation.
Regards
Johann
get the table as square as you can and then rest the fence for squareness finial..

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If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-16-2015, 11:43 AM
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I'd make the fence square with the table. There is so little width of even a 1/2" blade that it's hard to determine what is really parallel.

Make sure you've got the blade properly tensioned. Some bandsaw blades have a natural drift. Not so obvious when cutting thin(ner) stock but, when resawing, it becomes obvious. At least one cause is a worn blade but there seems tobe a lot of folklore on this topic. Here's an article on dealing with it. I have a 1/2" blade on my griz 555 that just doesn't want to cut parallel to the fence. I'm thinking of getting this (I have the base unit). It would allow me to set the fence to the natural drift of the blade.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-16-2015, 11:54 AM
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If it's a bandsaw you are talking about then you need to watch this entire video before you do anything else. snodgrass bandsaw video - Yahoo Search Results Yahoo Canada Search Results

You can't adjust the blade very much on a bandsaw so most of the adjustments are made relative to the blade. Setting one up the way Alex Snodgrass shows in the video will help quite a bit to get it to saw straighter. I know some use a fence with a little bump clamped to it beside the blade to control cutting depth and then feed and move the end of the board as necessary back and forth to stay on line.

The first part of your post said table saw. Was that a typo? Whole different story if that's what we are talking about.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-16-2015, 11:56 AM
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The way I set the drift of my band saws is to put a strip of tape on the front and back of the table. Take a 3' long 1X4 and scribe a straight line from end to end. Then carefully free hand saw the line. Half way along turn off the saw and don't move the 1X4 and mark on the tape the edge of the board. This gives you the drift line. Remove the board and set your fence to the line on the tape and it will cut parallel to the blade.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 09:14 AM
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A picture of the saw would help.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2015, 10:51 AM
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The way I set the drift of my band saws is to put a strip of tape on the front and back of the table. Take a 3' long 1X4 and scribe a straight line from end to end. Then carefully free hand saw the line. Half way along turn off the saw and don't move the 1X4 and mark on the tape the edge of the board. This gives you the drift line. Remove the board and set your fence to the line on the tape and it will cut parallel to the blade.
Herb
Thats what I do, but remember that almost ALL the blades have different drift (I have read that the carbide ones, dont IDK), so you have to do that every time you change blades.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2015, 11:00 AM
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Thats what I do, but remember that almost ALL the blades have different drift (I have read that the carbide ones, dont IDK), so you have to do that every time you change blades.
Yes you are correct, but it is easy to do, I do a lot of resawing and use the fence, not the pointy thing where you have to move the end back and forth to make a straight cut.

I was using the Wood Slicer blades and they were super sharp and a pleasure to use. But they dulled fairly fast, especially if resawing where some dirt or a grain of sand hit the teeth. So I ordered some carbide impregnated blades and still on the first one, seems to be holding up good.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you to all! Got it squared up. Difficult to get to tne nuts underneath!
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 01:03 PM
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Whose blades are you using now Herb?

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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