Drill press laser device - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 10:25 AM
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I have the Ryobi and I don't trust it . The problem I see with how these are set up they do have parallax because they shoot from the side at an angle and project a line at about 45% angle so any adjustment to the table would change where they cross. If you could run the table all the way to the floor would the laser lines even hit the table?

If one was mounted at the center front of the head and projected a line running to the center of the column and the other one was mounted on the side of the head 90% to the column/bit line and projected a line through the center of the bit then it should take care of any parallax but the width of the line would vary with height adjustments but not where the lines cross.
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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 10:42 AM
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It would seem to me , without trying it, that a person might be better off with a rifle laser bore sight tool. Inset the bore sight, position your piece and clamp it, remove the bore sight and insert a drill bit.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 03:35 PM
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The paralax is not at the table where it interrupts the lasers..it is an imaginary line where the two fan lasers intersect vertically...at the bit center...that's why table height doesnt affect it if adjusted properly...

Take your hands, fingers spread out straight and in front of you...now intertwine your fingers...viola...

Better yet...for those of you that have it, turn it on and blow smoke at it...

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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 04:02 PM
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I'm having trouble visualizing that Nick. I know that principle of all the rangefinders I'm familiar with are based on measuring the angle of parallax. The line vertical through the chuck would be the fixed line and the distance from there to the laser would be the base of the angle with the line from the laser being variable as the distance changes.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 04:15 PM
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I just bought the Peachtree laser that was shown. I sort of got it adjusted. I think my problem is that my table is not exactly 90 deg to the column. The X is slightly behind where it should be. So I am going to try to shim it to move the bottom outward a bit. As far as parallax...in my minimal use so far I have no noticed any problems with having to refocus. Of course I do not see very well, so maybe I am just not seeing it. I am thinking though that once you have an initial setup, any refocusing will take seconds rather than minutes.



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post #26 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Gary, no shims are needed. This is the bottom adjustment that is off in your situation.
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post #27 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 05:13 PM
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I will look for that...must have missed it. Thanks Mike !!!


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post #28 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 05:18 PM
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Gary; take a piece of coathanger wire. Bend it into a 'Z' shape with the outer vertical leg out about 8" from the vertical of your chuck. Lock it into the chuck and raise/lower the quill till the wire just touches the table. rotate the quill by hand.., the wire tip should just touch everywhere on the circle it scribes.
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post #29 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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I got permission today to share this photo of the Wixey drill press digital depth gauge I am Beta testing. This is not available for sale at this time.

For drill presses like my Delta 12" bench top model that do not have a depth stop rod a bracket attaches to the quill with a stainless steel band clamp. For models with a depth stop rod a different bracket is included that attaches to the rod. The unit mounts to the drill motor housing by drilling two small holes 3/8" deep with the included drill bit. Two self tapping hex head screws attach the bracket. I made no modifications so far, just bolted it on to test the operation.

I am going to modify the set up and will take detailed photos of the process. This is presented as an FYI about a new product that may become available in the future. Barry Wixey will be looking in to see your comments about this.
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post #30 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
Gary; take a piece of coathanger wire. Bend it into a 'Z' shape with the outer vertical leg out about 8" from the vertical of your chuck. Lock it into the chuck and raise/lower the quill till the wire just touches the table. rotate the quill by hand.., the wire tip should just touch everywhere on the circle it scribes.
That is a great idea. Thanks ! My problem is that due to Macular Degeneration I have no center vision in one eye...so very little depth perception. I notice it the most on the drill press if I am trying to accurately drill a hole. That is why I wanted the laser guide. Not so much for extreme precision like on a printed circuit board, but to just get past extreme imprecision lol

To give you an idea. One of my current pjects is a benchtop buffer. On the base I wanted to have the bolts inset so they didn't rub on the workbench. I drilled the 5/8" holes first, then using a forstner bit...biggest I had was trying to center that over the hole I had drilled. I came pretty close to totally missing on about 1/2 of the 8 holes. Even though I had tried to line it up from 2 sight lines. I think your suggestion would have worked well.


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