Resawing question - Router Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Default Resawing question

Hi, I am still trying out the various tools in my shop (inherited from FIL). I have been trying my hand at resawing on the band saw (12" Craftsman). I cannot seem to saw straight. I am using a homemade fence that supports the wood I am trying to cut, the fence is square to the table and parallel to the edge of the the table.

I am trying to cut a piece of 1.5 inch square pine in half, just for practice. I tried a 1/4 inch blade and a 3/8 blade with the same results, the blade begins to curve off center within an inch. I do have the blade support about 1/4 inch or less above the wood. What am I missing?

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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 02:31 PM
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I'll be the first to respond to your question and at the same time admit that I am not a skilled band saw operator. Due to my lack of knowledge I watched Alex Snodgrass's video on how to set up a band saw. After following his instructions, re-sawing was not a problem. Right now I'm in the process of learning about how to choose the right blade for a job. Generally speaking I have not had much of a broblem with any blade that I have tried. At one time I did some accurate re-sawing with a little 1/8" blade.

Most of the problems that I have encountered with my BS is that of breaking blades and after some time have started to come to the conclusion that have been "over tensioning" my blades. I'm working on learning about tension. Reading about it has not been of much value to me as most what is written is subjective to one's interpretation which leads me to have to learn from my own experience just like most of what I have learned about woodworking. Some people can follow other people's instructions better than others I guess.

So, Goodle Alex Snodgrass and try to find his video, it should be of great help to you.

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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 03:35 PM
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Have not seen your saw, but as Jerry says. Properly set up with the right blade you should have no problem resawing something that size. Once the blade gets worn you will have wandering. I have always heard about setting drift angle on bandsaws and have always done it. My new saw works fine using the fence, so spend the time to learn to set up your saw.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 04:03 PM
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I don't resaw on the bandsaw a lot, but when I do I use a method similar to this one. This guy's fence is a lot nicer than mine....

Resaw Fence for Bandsaw
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 07:48 PM
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Hi Tim. Follow Jerry's advice and check out Alex's video. I've seen him in person at a couple different wood shows and he is really good at what he does. Use the widest blade you can put on your 12" bs and also the coarsest one... 6tpi is good. The fence Doug suggested is also pretty good as it allows you to adjust your wood to compensated for the blade drift.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all for the input. I found the video, boy, Alex knows his stuff. I didn't think you could change the direction of the wood as fast as he does when sawing the curves.
I saw the same model of BS that I own in the background of the video. Too bad he didn't demo on that.

I'd link to the video, but don't have 10 posts yet.

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 10:15 PM
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I have a BS with the riser block for extra cutting height. I do all my resawing on the bandsaw. I learned a long time ago that band saws have a drift in the cutting regardless of what others say.
The way I compensate for that is to take a 1x board around 3' long and draw a straight line from end to end some where close to the'' center of the board.
Put a strip of masking tape on the forward and back edge of the table.
make a cut freehand carefully following the line on the board. Half way through stop and turn off the saw. Then don't move the board and make a mark on the tape both front and back. This shows the drift of the blade. Set your fence and adjust it to the marks on the tape. it will not be square with your table. But your fence will move parallel to the marks when you make your set up. Also I mount a board 6"-8" hi on the fence to make sure the material has support.

Grain in the material sometimes deflects the cut. when this happens I stop switch ends with the material and finish the cut. It will usually straighten out.
Hope this helps,
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Last edited by Herb Stoops; 10-09-2016 at 10:18 PM.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 10:20 PM
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Did you start with new blades or did the blades come with the saw? I would try a new Timberwolf blade just to make sure the blade is not the problem. As blades wear they can develop drift.

One other thing is the guides need to be below the gullet of the blade. If the teeth run on the guide it will trash the blade which can develop drift.

Last edited by coxhaus; 10-09-2016 at 10:25 PM.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 11:34 PM
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Theres a very simple answer to the blade drifting badly after 1" cutting..... Slow Down.
I learnt this the hard way, so youre getting good advice cheaply. Let the blade do its job. It cant possibly cut straight if the wood is being forced.

Usually you would pick a blade that has 3 but no more than 4 teeth for every inch depth of wood. If there are, or if the wood is moving too fast, the teeth cant remove the dust fast enough and the blade clogs up, then its just the blade flexing sideways under pressure. If the only blade you have has too many teeth, youre reduced to a snails pace.

Learning the feed speed is 80% of bandsawing. If you go too fast, it wanders, too slow and then the wood starts to darken and burn on the cut.
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 12:42 AM
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Even on backyard sawmills with 19" wheels and 1 1/4" wide blades, 7/8" pitch, the blades will wander.

In this case, 99% of the time it is due to the blade getting dull. As long as the blades are kept sharp, with SUFFICIENT SET, there's rarely any trouble.

You are actually starting out with a bandsaw that will have difficulty due to its' small size. Bigger is almost always better for resawing.

Look for a blade with 4 TPI or less if they make such a thing for a 12" bandsaw. Feel the set of the teeth and get one with as much set as possible (within reason) and you will find that it cuts better. Wider is better as well.

You can buy sharpeners and setters, but they are atrociously expensive. I think it would be possible to make your own if you are mechanically inclined. The setter is quite simple, the sharpener is another story.

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