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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Default painted lumber?

This is not the place to post this question I'm sure but I also do not know the correct place.
It's time to resurface my deck, all of the frame and support structure is very sound and good for another 20 years, but the decking boards have past their useful life. And I want to paint the new deck instead of staining the boards, thus my question, Can I use untreated lumber if I an going to paint the wood and none of the deck has any soil contact?
If I use treated lumber I will have to wait at least a year to paint as the fresh decking will have such high moisture content.
Please give me the benefit of your collective wisdom

thanks, Wileyboy
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 08:59 AM
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Got no deck, but I know they paint houses.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 09:02 AM
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flip the boards over...
seal the deck...

treated lumber...
has to be used for it's intended purpose (UC3B) none of which you will find at the BB's..

to paint..
seal the end grain well..
paint all 4 sides..
use emulsion primer to start...

.
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File Type: pdf PRESSURE TREAT.pdf (83.2 KB, 193 views)
File Type: pdf PRESSURE TREATED WOOD -USE CAUTIONS.....pdf (35.4 KB, 16 views)
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 09:16 AM
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Hey, George; I see you're down in Georgia. You guys don't really have Winters as we think of them up North? Am I also correct in thinking you have a lot of humidity?
Personally, I detest these new waterbourne paints; they are way less durable than the old oil based products, but you may not have any other options.
If you can find oil based exterior primer, you might consider pre-priming all the material before you install the decking...a year sounds like overkill.
'Stickering' the pile allowing LOTS of airflow through it, and having it under cover and out of direct sun would be helpful in the drying process; installing it wet and 'green' sounds like a bad idea, from my own experience.
I'm thinking maybe something like an Epoxy floor paint (exterior) might give you more durabity, but if the coating isn't specifically recommended for floors/decks you'll be lucky to get a year out of the higher traffic areas.
I wish I had a more optimistic pov but unfortunately I'm redoing the tops of my deck railings as we speak, after two only Winters...I'm not happy.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
ll.
'Stickering' the pile allowing LOTS of airflow through it, and having it under cover and out of direct sun would be helpful in the drying process; installing it wet and 'green' sounds like a bad idea, from my own experience.(
heavily weight and cover it...
adding a box fan for more air flow is a big plus...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 03:16 PM
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"I wish I had a more optimistic pov but unfortunately I'm redoing the tops of my deck railings as we speak, after two only Winters...I'm not happy."
-Me

I followed all the instructions on the product label; I bent over backwards to ensure a long life...5 yrs. minimum I thought was reasonable. I remember in the long ago past, linseed oil based paint, you'd get 10 yrs on a deck railing.
But I digress, this c**p I used is called 'Sharkskin'. I replaced all the railing caps in Aug. 2016. Air dried Cedar, tested the moisture content, around 12% ...Sharkskin is approved for up to 20%.
Overpriced waste of time and money, in my opinion, based on it's performance on the WR Cedar. I'll try and find the pics I took before I belt sanded it down a couple of weeks ago. I got up at dawn this morning and got a fresh coat down at 7:30AM. It was dry to the touch by 9:00AM; I'll do a second coat tomorrow same time.
The pic below is what it looked like in 2016 after installation and painting. (I hadn't done the rest of the railing yet. In fact I used an acrylic exterior solid stain on the rest of the railing and it's held up just fine.)
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
Personally, I detest these new waterbourne paints; they are way less durable than the old oil based products, but you may not have any other options.
A few years ago, for some forgotten reason, I did some research on oil based house paint, and water based acrylic latex house paint. The claim was that now the water based are as good as, or in some cases better, than the oil based paints. Don't know how accurate that is, but did lose a piece of plywood painted with acrylic latex for about a year, on the ground outside my shop, got covered with leaves. Thinned latex at that. Looked like it had been painted the day before. Oh yeah, now I remember, it was a test piece, seeing how thinned latex compared to regular stain. Didn't mean to test it outdoors tho.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 09:14 PM
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Looking a little farther down the road, I suggest you add grit to the paint. A wet painted deck is very slippery without it. Home Hardware up here carries it. It comes in pouches and 2 per gallon is enough to give some grip.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 07:03 AM
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FWIW, my son-in-law has a painted deck with the treated lumber that has a green color. The paint is peeling off already after about 5 or 6 years.

John T.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 12:03 PM
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He got 5 yrs. out of it?! Outstanding! What was his secret?
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