I wouldn't pay $10 for either one of those saws, even if they were in just out of the box condition. They scream when you run them, are way under powered for all but the smallest of projects, the miter slots are not the standard 3/4 X 3/8 size, a DADO blade cannot be used full width on them, not even a smaller diameter dado blade, and the fences are never accurate. Need I say more?
For a new woodworker on a tight budget, I would suggest that you look for a Delta Contractor Saw.
Before buying, make sure it cuts, isn't too heavily rusted, and is complete, and check underneath it for any broken parts, especially the trunions (blade arbor mountings and tilt mechanism slides). The top should be cast iron. The table wings (both side wings will likely be sheet metal) and the arbor tilt pieces are also cast iron. These can break if the saw is ever thrown out of a truck or knocked over. The OEM fence could be steel or extruded aluminum. Either one is fine.
Any of the models in the 34-440 series or similar are essentially the same and they are very plentiful. (I think they incremented the model number one count for each year they were being made) They have a 1 1/2 hp induction motor on the back with a belt to the blade arbor and they come with a stand built-in so a separate stand is not needed. A lot of these saws were being made and sold 20-50 years ago and they are a very reliable saw to this day. A relatively clean one of these saws can be found complete with a usable fence and miter gauge for $100-200. For very clean and good condition I would even be willing to go a little higher in price. A lightly rusted top can be cleaned up as long as there is no deep pitting. Most of these saws have a specially designed dual voltage motor that is 1 1/2 hp when connected to 120 volt power, but will produce a full 2 hp when connected for 240 volt power. The limited power was so the contractor could take the saw to the job sit and it would run on a 120 volt 15 amp circuit, but if he was using it in his shop he could change it for 240 volt use and gain the extra 1/2 hp when connected for 240 volt power. The OEM fence on these saw isn't the best, but it will do a new user well for years if it isn't damaged, and it can be replaced later if the need arises for a better one. I'm still using the same miter gauges that come with these saws, which were standard issue with all Delta 10" saws made for well over 60 years.
These saws have the standard 3/4 X 3/8" miter slots (something that those $100 saws that you are looking at don't) so standard jigs can be purchased that will fit and work well on them and their 5/8" arbor shaft is long enough to take a DADO set and standard 10" diameter blades. Their biggest failure is that there is no really good way to control the saw dust, since the case/frame of the saw is completely open on the bottom and back. An optional (non Delta) cloth bag is available today that can be attached under the saw that will catch much, but not all of the saw dust.
I found and bought a 34-444 model of this saw for my son, cleaned it up a bit, changed the motor wiring for 240 volt, and put a new saw blade on it. The top was slightly rusty so some rubbing with a Skotch Brite pad and WD-40 was used to clean it up. I also adjusted the blade to be parallel with the miter slots and adjusted the fence to be parallel with the blade. After clean-up I waxed the exposed cast iron with several coats of Johnsons Paste Wax to minimize future rusting and make wood slide across it easily.
His saw now cuts just as accurate as my Unisaw and he has yet to bog down the 2 hp motor doing any and all of his house remodeling. The motor is an induction motor, not the universal (drill motor) type that is in those $100 saws that scream when you use them. It's relatively quiet in comparison and will likely last another 40 years.
Central North Carolina
Last edited by CharleyL; 01-04-2019 at 12:10 PM.