Table saw inserts - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 07:25 AM
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I make mine on my CNC, and route a blade clearance pocket on the back, so I can safely turn on the saw with a 10" blade. I do rest the fence over it when raising the blade.

I would never use a plastic like Lexan or Acrylic.
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 10:18 AM
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Mine are plywood. Never a problem. A brad in the end to hold it down and adabba hot melt glue in each corner to level it. Just a question: can you get thicker lexan?
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 11:08 AM
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The plastic cutting boards work well, but I prefer 12mm BB ply--don't like the plastic sticking to my blades.. I generally cut to width on the table saw, then round it with the band saw, also use the BS to cut the slot for the riving knife. Could use the router with a trim bit using the original insert as a template, but I'm happy with the band saw results for now.

For dado stacks used for rabbets, I just stack the blades and cutters without shims, so it's always the same size. For rabbets, you are burying the blade in a temporary fence anyhow, You expose only the amount needed to cut the rabbet. So for that purpose I can use the same insert for a long time.

Never thought to put a finish nail in as a hold down. Thanks for that, although my inserts never lift out. I could just glue on a small tab to do the same thing, since the opening for the riving knife cuts all the way to the rear edge of the insert. Two tabs would keep one from flexing lower than the other.

I usually use a 2x over the blank insert to really hold it down. I often just use a little tape to level because the depth of the insert opening is very close to the 12 mm thickness of BB.
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomas1389 View Post
Mine are plywood. Never a problem. A brad in the end to hold it down and adabba hot melt glue in each corner to level it. Just a question: can you get thicker lexan?


I can, but itís not gonna be cost effective. An 8x12x0.093 Lexan is ~$9, but they donít sell 0.12Ē or thicker Lexan in small strips. Iíll end up paying upwards of $80 something for a 12x24 sheet. Itíll be cheaper just to buy phenolic inserts from Peachtree or Leecraft.


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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 09:24 PM
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Here is a photo of the under side of the throat plate I made from 12 mm (1/2") Baltic Birch plywood. The throat plate blanks were ripped to the desired width and a pattern bit was used to make the rounded ends. There are five levelers made from 1/4"-20 x 1/2" long set screws. Drill a through hole so that the set screws can be adjusted from above. I don't remember the hole diameter appropriate for the set screw creating it own female threads; experiment a little bit. The safety tab for keeping the saw blade from throwing the throat plate in your face was made from a 1"x1" L bracket from Ace Hardware; one end was shortened. My design was inspired from the attached article in Fine Woodworking. Much to my surprise, the FW article did not discuss the safety tab. Unless you have a CNC (which I do not), cutting the so called zero clearance slot will likely involve starting with an 8" blade followed by a 10" blade. This may compromise the quality of the blade kerf slot.
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Here is a photo of the under side of the throat plate I made from 12 mm (1/2") Baltic Birch plywood. The throat plate blanks were ripped to the desired width and a pattern bit was used to make the rounded ends. There are five levelers made from 1/4"-20 x 1/2" long set screws. Drill a through hole so that the set screws can be adjusted from above. I don't remember the hole diameter appropriate for the set screw creating it own female threads; experiment a little bit. The safety tab for keeping the saw blade from throwing the throat plate in your face was made from a 1"x1" L bracket from Ace Hardware; one end was shortened. My design was inspired from the attached article in Fine Woodworking. Much to my surprise, the FW article did not discuss the safety tab. Unless you have a CNC (which I do not), cutting the so called zero clearance slot will likely involve starting with an 8" blade followed by a 10" blade. This may compromise the quality of the blade kerf slot.

I made a blank insert out of a 1/2Ē today. Used the original plate as a template, cut it with a top bearing straight bit. Havenít gotten any further thus far, because the spade bits I have are too dull for ply & are burning the wood instead of cutting it, and the forstner bits havenít arrived yet. The blade on my saw retracts out all the way, but Iíll need to make a clearance for the arbor housing. Will update as soon as itís done.




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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 08:43 AM
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I never said what I use as the hold down for my inserts. Since I do quite a bit of metal working as well as woodworking, I've been using small diameter roll pins instead of finishing nails, I guess because I have a good assortment of them. Either will work the same. It doesn't take much to hold the inserts in place, but things can get real exciting if there isn't something included in the design for this.

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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Still waiting on the forstner bits.


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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 07:47 PM
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I used a 7 1/2 inch blade on my new unisaw table saw insert. I then tried to switch to a 10 inch blade but the 10 inch blade was a lot thicker so using the small blade did not really help. How are you guys handling that? I can manually cut it but is there a better way?
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by coxhaus View Post
I used a 7 1/2 inch blade on my new unisaw table saw insert. I then tried to switch to a 10 inch blade but the 10 inch blade was a lot thicker so using the small blade did not really help. How are you guys handling that? I can manually cut it but is there a better way?


Drill a start and end point & make a mortise with a band saw ? Or just a dado with the smallest router bit you have.


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