Table saw fence - Router Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Default Table saw fence

As I mentioned in another thread, Iís gots me a Delta 36-6000 series for a bargain of a price. Itís a contractor saw with a 24Ē table, and not without its quirks. The biggest one by far is that the rip fence is utter schlock. Not only that I had to take apart & fix the clamp assembly to set the rotating pin right (it was popping out of alignment and the clamp wouldíve crooked and not work as it should), but it also that the fence wonít clamp true square. Ea time I need to make a rip cut, I end up spending time with a caliper to make sure the fence is parallel to the blade. So far the only somewhat quick fix was to screw a strip of HDPE to the fence to reduce the friction.

Iíve been looking into replacing this junk, but couldnít find anything compatible for cheaper than $200. And thatís more than I paid for the saw. My question , therefore, is how you experienced folks deal with these issues and if thereís an affordable solution to this ?


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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 10:55 AM
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Without seeing the mechanism I can’t say if it can be fixed. I bought a cheap Sears that couldn’t be but I have an Excalibur/ Unifence type on a Unisaw that is good but pricey and I have an Accusquare on an old Rockwell that is just as good and not nearly as pricey. Still more than $200 but not a lot more.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 12:42 PM
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To me, the fence is the most important part of the saw, and if the saw itself is decent, a good fence can make a world of difference.
30 years ago, I put a Vega fence on a Craftsman contractor saw, and used it for many years until I got a new Unisaw.
It was about $275, and worth every penny.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
To me, the fence is the most important part of the saw, and if the saw itself is decent, a good fence can make a world of difference.
30 years ago, I put a Vega fence on a Craftsman contractor saw, and used it for many years until I got a new Unisaw.
It was about $275, and worth every penny.
Exactly the way I feel . I had a 10Ē delta contractors saw with a Biesemeyer fence , and it was just a joy to work with . I learned my lesson from a friend who had a cheaper fence that could drive you to fits

I don't know anything about CNC router tables , but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Without seeing the mechanism I canít say if it can be fixed. I bought a cheap Sears that couldnít be but I have an Excalibur/ Unifence type on a Unisaw that is good but pricey and I have an Accusquare on an old Rockwell that is just as good and not nearly as pricey. Still more than $200 but not a lot more.


As a rule, Iím willing to shell out a decent amount to make life worth living. But lately, Iím forced to do it because otherwise the tools are not performing up to the expectations. For example, I find it nearly impossible to cut a miter runner that wonít have a play and wonít require additional sanding to fit right. I am actually opting for aluminum t-tracks that cost ~$9 per 24Ē, but perform admirably. Itís just difficult to digest the fact that a vital accessory can cost twice as much as a tool itís intended to be used with.


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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 08:53 PM
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It’s just difficult to digest the fact that a vital accessory can cost twice as much as a tool it’s intended to be used with.......................
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It’s a contractor saw with a 24” table
What you have is not what most call a "contractors" saw. You have a jobsite or benchtop saw.
What's commonly called a "contractor's saw" is a full size saw, with a cast iron top, with a belt driven arbor and induction motor. There's a night and day difference between a jobsite saw and a contractors saw.
To be honest, I've never seen anyone put a really good fence on a jobsite saw, and I'm not even sure you could without a lot of modifications.

Generally, anyone buying a $200-$350 fence is putting it on a saw that costs much more.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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What you have is not what most call a "contractors" saw. You have a jobsite or benchtop saw.
What's commonly called a "contractor's saw" is a full size saw, with a cast iron top, with a belt driven arbor and induction motor. There's a night and day difference between a jobsite saw and a contractors saw.
To be honest, I've never seen anyone put a really good fence on a jobsite saw, and I'm not even sure you could without a lot of modifications.

Generally, anyone buying a $200-$350 fence is putting it on a saw that costs much more.


Apologies for the confusion. I always thought the difference is between a bench top to contractorís to hybrid to cabinet saws.

Thatís exactly my point, I cannot justify spending twice the cost of the tool on an accessory. Nor Iíll be able to justify it to the wife. Thatís why I was asking whether thereís an affordable fix or a DIY alternative.


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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 09:57 PM
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Mule Cabinetmaker - Carpentry Tools for Carpenters that Need Precision & Reliability! Like I said, not much more.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 07:55 AM
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It is nice to have a saw with the functioning rip fence but when I was running my craftsman hybrid tablesaw, I developed and used something like the following to set the fence. It took the independent measurements out of the process.

https://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fi...ing-guide.html
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 08:31 AM
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You can find a lot of DIY fences with Google.

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