Okay guys, here’s the deal. Since I started this thread, I ought to be able to say this w/o upsetting anyone.
First, I really do want to know where I can get some of the router bit wax goop I mentioned in my first posting. I’m hoping someone will come along & give me a lead. I can’t seem to find anything by googeling & I would like to have the real thing.
Doug has hit the nail on the head, below.
Second, we’ve gotten off topic. To my knowledge, there are no other shop tool as awkward to setup as are routers. Here’s why:
1st - Although there are minor exceptions, most routers will neither stand on their head nor lay peacefully on their side while they’re being setup. If you try to stand them on their heads to change bits, they fall over. If you try to do it with them laying on their side, they roll all over the bench or onto the floor. On most routers, the cords come out of the top making it impossible to stand set them up. Changing bits is a three-handed job in a two-handed world. This would be an easy fix if only router manufacturers would think before they start casting parts.
Put the 7x7 or 11x11 OakPark baseplate on and it will hold the router quite nicely at a reasonable angle to release the collet with the two wrench system.
2nd - Another concern is the Porter Cable type template guides that have become standard on most routers. They’re almost impossible to securely lock in place. They’re designed to be hand tightened but when hand tightened, vibrate loose. The only option is to tighten them with Channel-Lock pliers which chews up the rings. Also, if the threads are tight (normal) there’s no way to hold the guide while the ring is being tightened so you can’t tighten them anyway unless you use another pair of pliers which destroys the guides. It would be so simple to design a system that uses a set screw to lock the collets in place, yet no one has gone there.
There are brass and steel template guides. Steel guides are usually provided by router manufacturers because of cost. However, they do garner some support from members here. There are two sizes of brass template guides,
1 3/16 PorterCable size and 1 3/4 OakPark/LeeValley size. I prefer the 1 3/4 brass with a ring nut and tighten slightly more than finger tight.
3rd - The small openings in the side of the router base are awkward to use, especially if you’ve misplaced the wrench or wrenches that came with the router (they seem always able to find a places to hide) and you need to use substitutes, such as crescent wrenches. Someone needs to design a base with a flip-up bottom that can be tilted out of the way for better access - not a difficult task I shouldn’t think.
I'm not going to touch that one.
All routers should have a shaft locking slide on the side of the router otherwise you need one hand to hold the router, another hand to push in a strongly springed shaft locking button and then, of course, your third hand to turn the router collet lock nut wrench. All this could be avoided by making the armature shaft a little larger, running a collet locking bolt up through the shaft that could be loosened or tightened from above. Simple enough but no one’s been there yet.
Use the OakPark baseplate and two wrenches. It takes one hand. The shaft lock requires 4 hands to tighten and three to release the collet.
4th - The near universal aluminum to aluminum contact between router motor and base is a dreadful combination. Without constant waxing they’re always binding and galling. A little nylon or similar material between these rubbing surfaces would make all the difference yet no one seems able or willing to do a fix.
My M12V is steel on brass, I think. The base is magnesium alloy, the columns are steel and there are bronze? bearing inserts inside the column receivers.
5th - I could go on but I’ll mention only this one last but SERIOUSLY ANNOYING peeve. Every tool manufacturer that uses stiff plastic power cords should have their CEO blindfolded and shot. Well, maybe a blindfold wouldn’‘t be necessary.
Isn't it amazing how they can cheapen a tool by a cord.
Now you have it. I’ll annoy you no more.
Well, you haven't even started. In fact, you've contributed handsomely and I thank you for it.