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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Default Router acquired but not working

Got my router and became a newbie Nov 5 but since then been frustrated beyond imagination. Spindle would not lock so router bit not secure so no work done. The people at Freud very helpful but not offering much apart from send it back and they'll 'see what they can do'. Well, enough of that, am having the retailer (Home Depot) replace it and when they do...soon I hope.. I'll get on with things. Question in anticipation of my first encounter with a working machine is this. Am in the middle of constructing a king bed and I'd like the slats to be set in the rails as in a mortise? As the slats will be square (as in 90 degree corners) what is the best way to square a mortise in a pine 2x4? The slat is 1x4 (actually 3/4x3 1/2). This'll be a first and glorious attempt at achieving some router skills so really looking forward to getting started after getting the working Freud into my hands. Quite keen actually. Any help with my first assignment will be...well you know! William (and many thanks for the welcome earlier James)
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 08:24 PM
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You have a few choices. You can square the corners with this type chisel Square Hole Punches - Lee Valley Tools , or, use a standard mortising chisel, or you can round the corners of your slats to fit using a chisel, scraper, and/or sandpaper. Since the slats aren't structural, the fit doesn't have to be perfect so I would go with the 3rd option.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 09:45 PM
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I agree with Charles as far as rounding the tenon.
I'm really more interested in your router problem, which Freud router do you have? Mine simply have a hole in the armature shaft that is engaged by a spring loaded pin. The pin is simply put in the engage position with a lever, or on one of my older models, automatically was activated by a cone when the router was in the fully down position. All components fully visible. If, for some reason, you couldn't get the router down far enough to align with the pin mechanism, you really have a problem with the base range of travel and that would need to go into the shop for correction.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 07:38 AM
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Use a 1/2" or 3/8" upward spiral bit to cut the mortises then as stated round off the edges of the tenons. The tenons will go easier if you do them on a table saw (you can lay the stock flat on the table)or band saw. Cut the tenons after the mortise to make sure of getting a good fit. Leave a shoulder all around the tenon to hide the mortise.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 11:25 AM
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You might also consider simply notching the side rails to set in the slats level with the tops of the side rails, giving you the same smooth surface for the box spring and mattress. Same strength and so much more simple all round. Newer bed sets require a center support as well. You can still make covers for the exposed side rail surface, perhaps. Just ideas for you. Hope your router problems turn out to be nothing serious.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 01:55 PM
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If you want to round over the edges of the slat to fit a round-ended mortise, wouldn't it be nice to use your router?
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Y View Post
If you want to round over the edges of the slat to fit a round-ended mortise, wouldn't it be nice to use your router?
Good point Ray. When he said mortice, I assumed he was going to tenon the ends of the slats. There isn't necessarily a need to. A round over bit or a bullnose would round them quickly.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 08:39 PM
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"Or" make the mortise a little wider and the" square" tenon will fit in the "round" hole. No trimming, squareing, etc. and nobody will notice.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
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If you want to round over the edges of the slat to fit a round-ended mortise, wouldn't it be nice to use your router?
A few swipes with a rasp takes off the square end. It doesn't have to look pretty only fit. I just find that making a tenon with a router takes too long. If you have a table or set up to make the tenons then that's another solution but spending the time making such a jig or table for a few tenons doesn't make sense.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 08:09 AM
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Don't really need to mess with mortises or tenons either for that matter. Just groove the rails for the thickness of the slats. Cut some extra slat material and cut it to the length equal to the distance between the slats. Glue in a slat and then a spacer. repeat.

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