Making mantel clock--need advice on routing groove into frame for glass insert - Router Forums
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Default Making mantel clock--need advice on routing groove into frame for glass insert

Hey Folks,

Newbie here; perhaps I can get some advice on a woodworking project I have. About 13 years ago, while taking a non-credit Building Trades course, I had the opportunity to make several woodworking projects, one of which was a mantel clock. I made the clock with all cherry wood, and it has been sitting in storage for all these years. I now want to finally finish this project, but one of the things I need to do is install glass in a hinged frame that will be on the front of the clock. The frame is square, with 11/16" depth stock, fluted 1/4" in (I used a router) from the front. In order to install the glass on the inside of the frame, I will need to cut a notch around the inside, using my router, of course. Any suggestions on how to do that? Will I be able to find a router bit that has a guide, or will I need to make a jig? I have a router and a portable router table, but never used that table before. Please note that the frame is already assembled. I would also like advice on how I should attach the glass. Should I just glue it in, use push-pins, or do something else?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 12:11 AM
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Welcome to the forum, Sean.

If you could post a photo of the clock/frame you may get better advice.

Is the groove to be on the outside of the frame?

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 08:36 AM User
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As James has said, a photo or two will ensure more than one suggestions. You need I think ten post in order to post photos., this can be quickly achieved by greeting new members.


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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 10:14 AM
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I believe the term you are looking for is rabbet. Look up rabbeting bits to see if that is the type of notch you are wanting. You can get ones with interchangable bearings of different sizes to limit width of cut, or you can use your router tables fence to achieve the same thing.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 01:07 PM
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Default Glass for a clock door

Hi Sean. Welcome to the group. What you intend to do is cut a rabbit around the inside of the back of the door. One relatively simple way to do this is to make a square jig (just four pieces of plywood will do, 1/2". I prefer to biscuit join them) that is wide enough to support the router, and the inside dimension is such that when you put a router guide on your hand held (plunge?) router, with a correct sized bit (1/2" straight cut would do, with bottom cutters (for the downward plunge cut) the cut would be about 3/8" wide (in otherwise, overlap the edge a bit to give room for the chips to escape). Depending on how thick the glass is, you may need to make two passes. By removing the door from the frame, and clamping the whole thing to a table top, everything will stay registered. Make sure to make the jig large enough to allow for the clamps. A little chisel work in the corners will square them up. Have the glass cut about 1/8" smaller than the opening on both sides (top & side) and that way you will have about 1/16" clearance all around. Glazing points can be purchased at the same place as the glass, to hold it it. They need to be pushed into the wood. Using a hammer at this point may have you going back for another piece of glass. Good luck, Tim
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all for the advice. Just my luck (which is rare), I was digging through some old papers and I found the original plans! According to the plans, The glass is attached with a wood retainer that attaches to the back of the frame (which explains why I never cut into the door frame when I first put it together). I will need to get some 1/2" X 3/8" stock, run a 1/8" X 5/16" rabbet on that retainer (the router table will be perfect for that, as long as I watch my fingers LOL), then make miter cuts for the pieces and carefully install the glass, using small brass screws (with pilot holes drilled, of course).

That will save the time and trouble of making a jig and cutting into the frame.

I just need to make sure that the glass, which will go 1/8" into the case, will not interfere with the hands of the clock, but it appears that I will still have enough depth.

Thanks again for the advice!
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