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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Default Raised Panel door questions

Hi Guys,
I'm making a set of cabinets, full overlay raised panel doors. I have a couple of questions. I would like my raised panels to be flush on front but not having the groove from the back cutter around the back of door. Should i not use the back cutter and go with 1/2" stock for the panels instead of 3/4 stock to accomplish this?

I'm going to be using 1 - 1/"4 concealed hinges which will give me a 1/4" reveal. Does anyone know what the minimal space between two doors should be, when attaching two doors onto the same rail?

Thanks,
Mark
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark_M82 View Post
Hi Guys,
I'm making a set of cabinets, full overlay raised panel doors. I have a couple of questions. I would like my raised panels to be flush on front but not having the groove from the back cutter around the back of door. Should i not use the back cutter and go with 1/2" stock for the panels instead of 3/4 stock to accomplish this?

I'm going to be using 1 - 1/"4 concealed hinges which will give me a 1/4" reveal. Does anyone know what the minimal space between two doors should be, when attaching two doors onto the same rail?

Thanks,
Mark
that back cut is a rabbet and it's function is called a dust lip...
nothing wrong w/ using ½" panels over ¾...
you can find 1/8" panels w/ astragal, stop, casing or some other profiled molding used to simulate raised panel.....

how many degrees of swing are your hinges???
which hinge are you using by make and model # ???
BTW.. your door bit MLCS # isn't a valid #....

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 11-08-2014 at 02:09 PM.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 02:38 PM
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Hey, Mark;
two considerations re the door gaps..
1) you need a bit of room on the hinge side to allow for lateral adjustment once the cabs. are installed.
2) you need a bit of space between doors on the opening sides, as well as a a slightly angled relief on the door edge, to allow for the diagonal width (increasing) which occurs as the door swings open...ie the doors' arcs.
It's a fine line, eh?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 02:53 PM
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Hey, Mark;
two considerations re the door gaps..
1) you need a bit of room on the hinge side to allow for lateral adjustment once the cabs. are installed.
2) you need a bit of space between doors on the opening sides, as well as a a slightly angled relief on the door edge, to allow for the diagonal width (increasing) which occurs as the door swings open...ie the doors' arcs.
It's a fine line, eh?
Dan...
the type, style and the nature of the hinge's swing can change all of that...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 05:58 PM
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Yes, it can, but why take chances on the fit not working out, to reduce the gap to an extremely small allowance? It certainly won't make it any more aesthetically pleasing.
Doors that don't line up and uneven gaps are what catch the eye (that, and somebody's sloppy ceiling/wall painting booboos; how many times have I seen that on peoples' kitchen/bath cabinetry...)
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 06:03 PM
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Yes, it can, but why take chances on the fit not working out, to reduce the gap to an extremely small allowance? It certainly won't make it any more aesthetically pleasing.
Doors that don't line up and uneven gaps are what catch the eye (that, and somebody's sloppy ceiling/wall painting booboos; how many times have I seen that on peoples' kitchen/bath cabinetry...)
I know this...
but OP is looking for the smallest spacing he can get..
his cab...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 06:56 PM
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I'll throw a number out. I would say that a sixteenth is about right but Dan is correct when he says that an uneven gap will be far more noticeable than a wide gap. Some things tend to catch the eye and others don't. The gap between two doors or one door and it's frame is one that doesn't tend to register that much.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys,

Since I'm going with a 1/4" reveal, I was thinking a 1/4" spacing between those doors would look best.

The hinges I was looking at using are Hawthorne & Reid, 1-1/4" Overlay item number HR1071140101 (sorry can't post links yet). Unfortunately they're not showing opening angle. I may have to order the hinges then figure out the spacing.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 07:21 PM
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Is this the hinge you are looking at
Concealed Cabinet Hinge, 1-1/4 inch Overlay
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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John,
Yep those are the ones. Really like the price.
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