Harry Burrs on My Gears - Router Forums
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Default Harry Burrs on My Gears

Material is poplar, I'm using a 1/16" carbide 2 flute spiral flute end mill (the kind used for cutting alum). All the edges have harry little burrs that look like they will be a pain to remove. This is after I sanded it lightly with fine paper.
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Instead of seeing things and asking "why", envision things and ask "why not"
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 11:09 PM
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bit is dull...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Yes. That's the foresight solution. I need the afterthought solution.

Instead of seeing things and asking "why", envision things and ask "why not"
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 11:17 PM
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or it's flutes are sap loaded...
use a better quality bit..
use a differently rated cutter...
dental burrs perhaps...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 05-31-2015 at 11:21 PM.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 11:39 PM
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Will, End mills are not designed to cut wood. Many people use them trying to save money. Do yourself a big favor and look here for the bits you need:

Whiteside Machine Company
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 11:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike View Post
Will, End mills are not designed to cut wood. Many people use them trying to save money. Do yourself a big favor and look here for the bits you need:

Whiteside Machine Company
I think the smallest dia he's going to find is 1/8''..
a down spiral would be a plus...
so less than 1/8'' leaves burrs..
Tungsten Carbide Lab Cutters
and wait till Harry finds out he's got burs..
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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I wouldn't have thought burrs would work well in wood, but if they do (and don't leave burrs) I'll give them a try. I've used them to cut graphite and have a few bigger ones I could try but nothing small enough for what I'm trying to do currently.

Not sure about the 10 pc minimum on that site but considering the end mills I have currently cost between $20 and $40 ea, seeing these burrs for < $2.00 ea makes it easy to buy 10 even if I don't know if they'll work.

That being said, and back on topic, what are my options to remove the burrs on this part (since it's too late to buy new cutters). I could probably bead blast it but I'm afraid it will make it look bad when I finish it.

Maybe blasting it with compressed air and rubbing it with blue-jean rags will take them off without breaking off any more of the gear teeth.

Instead of seeing things and asking "why", envision things and ask "why not"

Last edited by Billy Hill; 06-01-2015 at 12:32 AM.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 03:10 AM
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Sorry Will
I see your problem no easy fix maybe Dremel type tool with sanding sleeve no easy way time and hand repair
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 06:50 AM
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I would use some fine sandpaper rolled to the appropriate size and lightly sand at an angle (top down based on your picture). Yes it might leave a slight rounding on the edge...canvas cloth might be better...
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 08:14 AM
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Will, My first thought for the fuzzy gear edges are miniature files or a well honed small hand chisel. For the relief areas that are flat, a scraper modified to fit in between the gears would work quite well to smooth out the router marks. To me power tools are not always the answer. Besides that the hand work is quiet, relaxing, gratifying and without all the airborne dust. Often in antique carvings I have seen stippeling done with a punch that has a design filed into the end of the punch and when repeated all over the depressed areas makes the project look quite unique and gets rid of the machining strokes left by your router.
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